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Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)

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Everything posted by Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)

  1. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Hey thanks Sam for the tip!
  2. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Thank you! I´d love to either have a shaving horse, or a workbench suitable for work with bench pins, but I absolutelly lack of space for that! I am glad to have such a well equippen blacksmith´s shop in my garden and that little workshop in our basement. As soon as I have a larger workshop eg. in a barn or so I will also built up a carpentry corner where a shaving horse and/or a propper carpentry workbench will definatelly be put in!
  3. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Unless you are very skilled and efficient in drawing out, welding on the rains goes much faster, you get a smoother finish and you need much less energy. Downside of welding is the risk of a welding failure or that the weld breaks later. If you are very efficient in drawing out, have one or more striker(s) to help you or a mechanical hammer, I suppose you go for drawing out. If you have to work alone and without help I suppose you weld the rains on.
  4. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Thank you very much! :)
  5. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    I agree, it is just very hard to have a fire that is clean and big at the same time. It worked well this way also, I have a very very large fire pot so half full is more than full on the most pots I saw yet. But thank you for your advise, when I have to weld bigger pieces I will rememer it!
  6. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    I am soon going to make one with a rounded blade, that process I am going to entirely film then :).
  7. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Hey Fellows! Me finishing and testing the first draw knife I forged yet. It is handforged from C60 (AKA 1060) tool steel, water hardened and gradually tempered from the spine. Yet it services me well :-). http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=qVj32un5BG0 Yours - Daniel
  8. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Yes, for me it is all about the art and the craft and that is all what counts for me!
  9. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Hey Guys, in this very video I explain the procedure to make box jaw tongs that fit for 25x10mm flat bar. Due to the fact that a lot of people saw TechnicusJoe´s tongs videos to be mirrored in my video I watched his and yes, I can also see the similarities. But this must have happened unconsciously and I, although I sure have been influenced by his work, did not try to copy him on purpose. My main source for the box jaw tongs and the welded on rains was Mark Aspery´s video, for the flat jaw tong what I was taught in France and for the drawing out Brian Brazeal´s video. The purpose of this video is to show people that are keen to learn the technique to make a pair of box jaw tongs and I think it - as well as Joe´s videos do - suits that purpose very well. I took to note that this problem is in place and I will watch out for it in future videos. But I don´t need ten or more additional people tell me this over and over again ;). That being said I hope you will have fun and benefit from watching it ^_^. Yours - Daniel
  10. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)

    Looking forward to go forging tomorrow (planning to make a draw knife)

  11. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    My anvil is not a Refflinghaus anvil but an H. W. Holthaus. But Refflinghaus describes the process of making them pretty good.
  12. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Sorry translation mistake! It is called puddle iron I think (Puddeleisen in German). http://www.ernst-ref...erstellung.html
  13. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    I got an answer in the German equivalent of IFI. For anyone that is interested: It is a "H. W. Holthaus" anvil, produced in Dahlerbrück, Westfalen, Germany. The age is correct and it is a forged pig iron anvil with a welded on steel face. Due to the fact that the face is in splendid condition I may add a zero to the 25$ :D. - Daniel
  14. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    I can´t say for sure but I think it might be possible that kg already was used in the industry but I don´t know anything definet.
  15. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Hey guys, today I got a new anvil that I bought from a colleg of my father for just 25$. It was covered by thick painting but I removed it and was able to reveal some signs. I also made a video about the sound and the rebound. Perhaps one of you can indentify this anvil and say me what steel/iron it is made of and how much it actually is worth. Here it becomes interesting! I think that the top letters say "1824" -> if that is the production year this is almost antique o_o. And the middle ones seem to say 44 1/2... in kilogramms this would fit pretty good. And there is also a touch mark that looks like a square with two hashes on top. Here I marked the letters that I think I was able to recognize with Photoshop: I was actually impressed by the good rebound! You can also hear the sound (although it got a little scratchy from the microphone in real it is pretty clear!) Ok I would be glad if you can tell me something about this anvil. For me it is a nice little anvil I may take with me to demonstrations or other events that need a portable anvil. Yours - Daniel you may get more answers if you asked in the anvil section, I will relocate for you
  16. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    It is possible to forge outside, also in winter. The workpieces will cool of faster but not extremely. You can help that by warming up your tools a little bit. Hammer, tongs and also the anvil, this way the heat is not sucked out so fast and it is better for the tools. A good thing would be to shelter the wind of with a few makeshift plywood walls or so. This way the heat of the fire would also be reflected back. But you can also use the wintertime to set your garage up properly and work with the propane forge.
  17. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    From my own experience I know that it is bloody hard to forge in cold conditions. So anybody that can work under these circumstances ows my respect!
  18. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)

    going to forge some carpenter´s tools today...

  19. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Hahaha jawohl! Only professional and formal^^ I can punch both perpendicular and paralell with this type of punch.
  20. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    As I wrote this is ONE possibility to make´em. There may be better, there may be worth. This one works for me. At Julien´s I also worked with some Brazeal punches, some facts I liked, some I disliked about them. I have to say that my version has a thinner more stream line type than the punches Julien made with Brian. The different bevels in my punch allow the force to be transfered to the tip very good without having a cloggy and heavy tool. The shape and the hight quality steel allow the tool to be light and ergonomical without the danger of bending or crumbling.
  21. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    I am living in the sourounding of Frankfurt am Main, in the federal state of Hessen in the middle of Germany. Former West-Germany. That is about 220 miles north west of Augsburg.
  22. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Oh I thought this would be a common colloquialism. What I best write under a post when I don´t want to sound too formal?
  23. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    I also saw that it is too loose. I will put wedges under the feet so it stand stable. With a wooden block you have to deal with the wood working with the temperature and moisture change.
  24. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    I used the rounding face on the horn, but it was so effective, that I had to be carefull not to move too much. I then just planished on the face. Thanks for your comment!
  25. Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
    Hey Guys, just me showing one possibility to make a hammer eye punch. I used C60 tool steel in 20mm round stock: Here are the different steps: 1. forge the round bar to an octagonal shape 2. create a teardrop shape about 1 inch below the top 3. create a light taper that starts of at the end of the teardrop and gets thicker for about 2 - 3 inches 4. then cut off additional 4 inches and create a light taper that gets thinner to the tip 5. taper about 1 - 2 inches at the tip thinner than the rest 6. planish and make everything nice and straight 7. dress the striking face 8. dress the surface of the rest of the tool and remove remaining sharp corners (optional) 9. heat up the whole tool above the transition point and let cool down slow (eg. in sand or on coals) to anneal it 10. grind the tip 11. heat up about 1 inch of the tip to cherry red colour and quench it in water or in oil to harden it (optional) ATTENTION: NEVER harden the striking face!!! 12. temper the hardened portion and a bit above to sky blue colour 13. clean it and touch up the edge 14. look out for cracks, test whether it is shatter proof 15. have fun with it :). Here is the one I made in the video: Well I hope this was helpfull. Yours - Daniel
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