Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
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Everything posted by Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo)
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Hey! That rams head already looks pretty nice! I hope you´ll now be able to finish it. Also make sure to round of the tip of the face where the mouth and the nostrals are going to be, because at the moment you have a little bit of lipping there. Keep on! -
I will be at Alec S. place this winter where we will inter alia forge a brazeal style hotcut that has a very narrow and curved blade that cuts through steel like a hot knife through butter :D. Sometimes one can also benefit from such a wide angle eg. if you want the end of the cut of piece to have a bevel.
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Hey fellows, after I published my guide on how to forge a rams head wall hook some people asked me how to make the punch for the eyes of the rams head. Due to the fact that there isn´t any video covering this very type of punch yet, I decided to make one on my own. I hope it can give you an idea how you would forge one on yourself. Please bare with me, it was -10°C and gloves where an absolute necessity in order to be able to forge anyway. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NCkMiVZR8Pw&feature=youtu.be Here a little written description: 1st heat: forge a square taper 2nd heat: dress up the taper 3rd heat: dress up the tip of the punch 4th heat: punch a dent into the tip of the punch using a ball punch 5th heat: take off two opposing corners of the tip, if you want the eye ball to be round, only use a file, if you want it elliptical first upset it horizontally with the hammer and then dress it up with a file 6th heat: cut it off at desired length 7th heat: make the strike end of the punch octagonal and forge a teardrop shape about 1" below the striking face, dress the striking face 8th heat: anneal the whole punch 9th heat: harden the tip of the punch at cherry red color and then use the spare heat to temper it to sky blue color last step: test if it is shatterproof and test the punch on a piece of steel. I hope you enjoyed the video and learned something new! Your - Daniel
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If you can put nails into the wall you want to fix it, yes definatelly!
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I look forward to see your works, as soon as you are able to make them! Creative ideas are always important, you have to see with the time what is worth the efford and what not.
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Do so buddy, do so!:D
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This is actually a very creative idea, but I think making a second screw hole is much faster than upsetting and making that spike. And this spike would also damage the surface you mount the hook later worse than a second screw. If somebody would pull on the hook you can even make a very big scratch into the wall. Nice idea, might actually even work but not suitable for the praxis.
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I believe that´s a very good idea francis!
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Thank you Simon for also sharing your thought here, I mean this thread is about you :) I agree with what you say. Take the best from your own heritage and combine it with the best you find all over the world.
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Order of a carpenter's holdfast
Daniel Lea (AKA 99pppo) replied to TechnicusJoe's topic in Tools, general discussion
Very cool project you have there! It already looks like it will work great when it is finished! I specially like the 90° corner and the very vivid looking tail, you managed to make very clean. Good sucsess with the further work on that! - Daniel -
Unfortunatelly a lot of people today don´t appreciate or know the real art behind it anymore. Today I waited for the bus in front of an extremely bad industrially produced and extremely visuably welded fence and I said man that is ugly. It could look so much nice made propperly. And they just said "it looks fine that way to me. Isn´t it the same handmade and mass produced" Then I said to them "It is like if I would give you a printout of the mona lisa and you would say 'what do I wan´t with it, it´s no real painting' and I´d say it would just be the same."
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Wow that is some great information! Thank you!
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Thank you for this comment, Joe. I doubt that he makes "the big money" with it, but that is not what counts for him, I guess. And that is also the reason why I don´t want to become a professional smith because I would then may have to use techniques I simply don´t want to use and that would take away all joy of it. The innovation that the smith should undergo is to develop techniques how to increase the quantity, without losing the quality. Unfortunately a lot of people today misinterpret this innovative character of the blacksmith and think that the easiest way is always the way to go. And I believe that if you have the skill to forge your stuff efficiently, causing little costs and work time without making the work piece itself cheap quality you can survive with it. And there are at least some examples that prove that (Habermann, Bullermann, Aspery, Brazeal, Grant-Jones... just to name a few). Since I heard of the blacksmith school of Julien, that he had to close because the French state cut the subsidies I hope that I will be able to support trade schools like his, that teach traditional techniques, in the case I will one day have the financial and influential power to do this. This way I might do way more for the craft than when I would found a blacksmith shop and maybe even go bankrupt and never able to forge in my live again.
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Hey Guys, this time I don´t want to promote my own work, but the one of a really great traditional blacksmith in the UK. His name is Simon Grant-Jones and here are two videos: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lfBZdzJvySs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gh0sz6yw_F4 And this picture I also found, he made this candleholder only using traditional techniques: In my eyes that prooves, that one can definatelly survive as a traditionally working blacksmith, not using archwelders and stuff like that. My eyes hurt every time when I see ugly, welded or machineforged fences in the city or even on historic buildings. Take this as a motivation to try to stay as traditional as possible. The smith has always been an innovator, but if stuff starts to be ugly and cheap, this is no innovation, but a stark step backwards! Your - Daniel
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Very cool, thanks for the suggestion!
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Thank you for defending me George, but Dave was right with the work on the horns, there in the end it was too cold. But actually the ambient light is indeed very bright and they still must have been red. Furthermore mild steel can be worked cold to a certain degree... It is the camera as well as the ambient light that alter the visuable glowing colour so actually one can only judge it with his own eyes in a very dark shop.
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Thanks Paul, usually when your steel sparks you burned it and you can through it away, but when forgewelding you use a flux that forms a protective coating around the steel, that keeps the oxigen away from the steel and thus allow it to be that hot without burning. If you see sparks in the fire your wait for about 5 seconds and then you take it out, it should have optimal welding temperature then. You shall not let it get so hot, that the steel turns liquid already. If you have drops coming of of the steel you made it too hot even for welding and it will kind of shatter like cast iron. The welding temperature depends on the steel and the flux you are using. Pure iron with sand as flux will have a very high temperature, high carbon steel with borax or fancy welding powders will weld at much lower temperatures.
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Thanks for your comment, there are some good thoughts in there I will sure consider on my next hook! I know that this hook might tend to turn around but I simply found no estetically pleasing way of adding two holes...
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Thank you Sam... and welcome ;)
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Dear George, it took me about two hours to make this one, but I had to videotape it... So usually I think it takes about one hour or a bit less to make one from beginning to end. I think I would charge somewhat around 25€ for such a piece, but I doubt that this would even cover all costs. If you want to buy one from me, you can send me a private message and then we could discuss the conditions. - Daniel
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16. Make an indentation with a round punch or a ball pien 17. Cut of the hook from the parent bar 18. Punch or drill a hole inside of the indentaion for the screw 19. Taper the hook and round it of 20. Create a curly cue having the face facing upwards 21. Cool of the curly cue to protect it and then form the hook Now you can finish it to your desire, I used a wire wheel on an angle grinder to make it shiny. Here is the video: If you have questions or constructive critique feel free to express it in a comment or personal message. Now have fun making one yourself! :) Yours - Daniel
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13. Forge the eyes using an eyeballpunch (To make the eyeballpunch forge a flat sqare punch, punch a dent into the face of the punch and then break two corners of the square) 14. fold over the head using a wooden log, a wooden or raw hide mallet to protect the face 15. Curl the horns
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8. Forgeweld 9. Taper the face 10. Cut the mouth with a hot chissel 11. Use a flat punch to create flatspots where the nostrals are going to be 12. Forge the nostrals with a round punch
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5. Twist the horns 6. Fold over about one inch, leave about 1mm space 7. Apply flux
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Hi guys, here is a little guide on how to forge a rams head wall hook. I am not a professional instructor and this is just the way I do it currently. I made a video and extracted the most important frames (full video on the bottom of the page): 1. Take a sqare bar (here 12mm) mild steel and draw down about 2 1/2 inches to half parent bar thickness 2. Split the set off section with a hot chissel along the middle 3. Fuller inbetween the horns and clean up with a file 4. Taper both horns (fold one horn back so you can work on the other)