Jump to content
I Forge Iron

David Gaddis

Members
  • Posts

    526
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by David Gaddis

  1. Nice video Alec...perhaps a little film work to shorten a bit...but very effective. Thanks for showing. Carry on
  2. If you were over there you can bet there would exist a good side and a bad side. Civil unrest exist in many places of the world.
  3. Must have had his camera sideways.....go figure Carry on
  4. Chris...one of these days you may meet ole bigfoot'...ke is kinda just like us good ole boys...but he has been around the block so many...many...many times he cannot count them. Hope to see you in Illinois this summer BigFoot Carry on
  5. Perhaps...but easily attainable is the gold-straw colors. Problems occur when small amounts of oilly residue end up on the piece and the oven heats that funky oil. Result may be you are to buy that new house sooner that expected. Consider a toaster oven from Wally World and put in the shop.
  6. Why not weld a traditional fram for the cast iron wheel to sit on? Then drill and tap for smallish sizr bolts to attach chain etc for the cup holders and additional gears. In the past we always brazed those two metals together when in large dimension...but they must be cooled slowly...like in ashes or dehydrated lime. Brazing a project like this is not for the weak person though. In other configurations I would consider Nickel rods. I never liked them unless they were on a wheel. Carry on
  7. I want one of those in 16 pound category...Planning on getting back to striking when the doctors give me the alls well signature. Carry on
  8. dang! Sure is difficult realizing you are gonna lose this battle. She sure is helping you out too! If you had placed it by the door and someone knocked their foot against it....well you would never hear the end of it. You are lucky in a way. Go put a band-aid on that wound and act like it was your idea. Carry on and out the door!
  9. Do not waste your money on the first thing that shows...like that piece of junk. many time you can get a decent piece of steel to be your first anvil until you can acquire a good one. Just do not throw good money after anything bad. All you have then is wasted money and scrap iron that is expensive. Carry on
  10. all that I have dealt with were Cast Iron....prone to cracking when hot and quickly quinching in water. Most withstand the situation but this phenomenon still occurs. Carry on
  11. Many folks claim the need of a certain hammer to anvil proportion. In down in the dirt terms that means if you use a sledge hammer on a 65 pound anvil there is gonna be a whole lot of unhappiness. Things may withstand the energy for a few hits but in the end there is going to be a whole lots of shaking going on. Short story is the project is wrong. Now if we substantially increase the size of the anvil then you can drive that sledge hammer for a long time. Same thing about your home made hammer. You really need a pretty darn big anvil..in the correct shape. When you get to Brian's you will be able to compare things about a treadle hammer. Personally I look forward to have my own treadle hammer and I have a 65 pound power hammer. A few of the activities can be done by both, some only by one very well. Keep researching the power hammer. Clay Spencer has designed and constructed some very impressive equiptment. Carry on
  12. Maybe misplaced by the inside threading hammer. Probably find both of them at the same place. Carry on
  13. Patrick would you please post some pics of the very large forgings. Many of us have only seen such in youtube archives Thanks Carry on
  14. I have some H13 that I think forging, then welding to a stem or handle may be an advantage. Mostly I have used 5160 type stuff for hot and cold work but now I want something for extended hot work under a hydraulic press. Your idea of welding the H13 to another stem brings this picture into focus. So I will be planning on a generous pre-heat and post-heat. May be very interesting....stay tuned. Carry on
  15. I would like to see some in progress pics if available. Very nice ! Extremely uniform. Carry on
  16. Seems to me that a properly welded 5160 piece should be about as good as anything...within reason. And preheating 5160 then welding with say 7018 in a good formation should be well in line. i have welded a fair amount of 5160 even without preheat but I know that is wrong. I have not had any 5160 welds "let go" since learning a bot more about welding. Most of the 5160 stuff I weld now is done TIG with ER70 gas rod filler. Then again I let the torch warm up the area generously prior to becomming molten, all under argon gas.
  17. In industrial situation I have witnessed many welded springs..electric welding...but the attachment was made with a taper. Than made the transition of shock down an extended path instead of a shear straight cross-path. But there is little doubt that a welded structure in spring steel is lesser desired unless there is no other option. The easiest example of welded springs is heavy truck with welded eyes on the ends of leafs that are interlaced with other eyes. That makes two or more layers in the eye position. Of course they were properly heat treated afterwards. Freightliner trucks used those for years when they used 9 leaf springs on the front suspension. THE RIDE WAS HORRIBLE TOO. Carry on
  18. If you bring her down to Mississippi when you come to Brian's you will return with another family member...I bet. LOL She is doing rather well in the smithing... Carry on
  19. Since I have started making skillets I have considered copper ones also. You have inspired me. Now that you have made yours...would you chose a differnt thickness or design? What about the slope of the skillet wall? Where do you get the tin material for the tinning process. I have no experience with tinning other than el;ectronics. Carry on
  20. Nice and uniform. Is the handle gonna be strong enough? Ha HA Carry on
  21. Consider making a three legged stand. There are many threads on IFI about their properties. Make the leggs from heavy wall 2x2 square tubing...with generous sized feet with holes to mount to ground or concrete. For you anvil the necessity to attach to concrete would not be paramount...however preferred. Simply drill the concrete and insert regular bolt into the hole. Remove them to move the anvil...easy. Fill the legs of the tripod base with oil and sand to reduce that horrible rebounding sound. With a good base on the tripod you can step up really close to the anvil when necessary. And there is an easy to add base to create tool holders. An example is hammer holders in the shape of rings, etc. You project is very attractive. Many would question the true economics but I think you have learned some additional skills. You also own a project that others are jealous of. Carry on
  22. Most big torsion bars such as Chev Tahoe, surburbans, etc has a diameter of approx 1.3 inches. Those have some rather large hex forgings on the ends that offer some very good potential for anvil tools. Torch them off to an appropriate length then forge them to fit the hardy. A friend could be a necessity here...as a striker. That would leave you with a fairly flat anvil tool to make other items from...such a a veining block for feathers or leaves. Total project time about 40 minutes if using accomplished striker...all year if working on by yourself and little experience. Some persons would throw that spring assy into a nice fire to allow the spring deform under heat, however there could be some issues with proper disposal of fluid within the cylinder, as well as other dangers....Just saying. A car shop should be able to disassemble in a few minutes..carry some trinkets to sweeten the deal. Mechanics love those key fobs made like leaves!
  23. Dan I may come back down there and see if you are following the instructions properly... Nahhhh...but I will come back down there to visit some day. Enjoy your new acquisition. Carry on
×
×
  • Create New...