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Found 11 results

  1. I got an amazing gift recently. I got a Hardy/hardie tool bench. It came with 4 pieces. One is a Blowhorn I know that... there's a spike that im pretty sure has nothing to do with it and 2 items that cannot be used in the bench. One of the two, looks to me, like a removable Anvil horn, the other is a long rectangular object with a step in it. Both are horizontal fits and both have a round, male insert with two flattened or "keyed" sides, unlike other vertical that are tapered square/rectangle. There are no stamps or markings. Can you help me identify the 2 and possibly the spike? I am also interested in finding corresponding pieces for both bench and unidentified tools. I am new to blacksmithing, just getting the final pieces together to really start. I appreciate any help you guys can give. I've tried for days looking up different words to identify the 2 with no luck in the slightest. He'll, I honestly don't know what I'm looking at with these 2 specifically. They could be for something entirely unrelated. Anyways, thanks again guys!
  2. Made a new Hardie cut off. Made it out of an old splitting wedge. I will use it as my hot cut but I did temper it. Am I wasting time doing that? My thought was it might hold the edge a little longer. It fixes nice and tight with just a couple light taps to release it.
  3. forged hardie from axle for 3/4" hardie hole
  4. The hardy hole on my anvil is about 3/4 inch square. I prefer to have the shaft sticking out below the anvil, particularly with a Brian Brazeal hot cut hardy, so I can knock it out easy. So what I propose to do is slit the stock near where I want the shaft to lock into the hardy and then forge a wedge to fit the slit. Then I can hammer the wedge which is cold into the slit which is hot. This should result in a shaft that drops into the hardy up to the expanded part near the wedge and then hammer it in letting the edges or the hardy hole create as shoulder on the shaft. This is theory, hoping to save some hammering fitting the shaft to the hardy hole. Comments would be appreciated
  5. I was hunting around in the scrap for some sculpture parts when I found a few of these things. They are teeth for a loader bucket or some other earthmover, but I'm thinking they might be a useful hot cut hardie. If I cut the tabs off the bottom and weld on a square section to suit the hardie hole I can't see why it wouldn't work. Would save a lot of forge work. I'm not sure if it's hard faced, tempered or what, so I haven't taken the grinder to the cutting edge yet. A file wants to skid off. Any ideas for a hardie tool or just chuck them back in the scrap?
  6. Came across this tool set on eBay. Ebay link removed Thinking they may not be any good but was wondering what you guys have to say. They state made from "ductile iron" but isn't that just basic cast iron. Do they require hardening ? Will they stand up to light duty use . My anvil has a 3/4" Hardie hole, I was thinking of getting a set in 7/8" and grinding the shank down to fit. Thks for reading and any comments/infomation.
  7. Got another item off the to forge list over the weekend! forged myself a Brazeal style hot cut hardie with tapered shank and curved blade. did most of it solo as I was starting with just 3/4" sucker rod (4130), which is not terribly difficult to forge. had to enlist some help to forge the fullers and strike on the flatter because I ran out of hands. it is actually as small as it looks, my anvil's hardie is 5/8" so it had to be pretty small to fit. unfortunately because I started with a piece that I had previously squared up for an unrelated project I ended up with a much narrower waist than I had anticipated and it sits right at the lower edge of the fuller, which I don't think is ideal. not catastrophic if I have to make another one, just more practice :) still need to file the edge, and beyond making the curve uniform on the belt grinder and knocking the remnants of the previous ragged cut from the tip of the shank everything is wire wheeled as forged. comments and criticism welcome, always willing to learn. question for anyone though: what exactly is the purpose of the fuller between the top of the shank and where the blade springs? I included it largely because that's how Brian's are made, but does it have an intended function that I am overlooking? Thanks for looking!
  8. Not to long ago i picked up an 'auto body half-football dolly with grip' from a harbor freight parking lot sale ($4.99!) i bought it with the intent to use it as a bottom fuller/psuedo horn becaues the horn on my little ASO is pretty flat on top, like a round edged triangle. trouble is the blasted grip is far too large to fit the 1" hardie :( ideally i would like to reforge (handled top fuller over the horn and a striker) the shank to bring it down to about 1" square, or at least close enough to where a massage from the belt grinder will finish it up without wasting too much material. i cant forge the entire shank (around 5" long) to be 1" because the increase in length will bottom it out against the foot of the anvil beneath the heel. that being the case id like to only forge the top end of the grip until i get about 2-3" of 1" square and the remainder of the grip still at the full size beyond that. at that point i would cut the 1" square part in half, leaving me with the football on about 1.5" of 1" square shank, and the remainder of the grip also on about 1.5" of 1" square shank. then it becomes a matter of deciding what kind of tool i want to make out of the grip remainder, be it a hot cut or who knows what. i could also forge the football flat on top, basically turning it into a hardie anvil block, which will give me a more solid surface to work on, and probably a more reliable set of edges as well. the grip remainder could be bent over and forged into a hardie bick too. has anyone worked with one of these, or similar products from HF? do they have a propensity towards using particular steels for particular tools? i should have sparked tested it the last time i was at the belt grinder but i didnt think about it. hardening questions will wait until i have something more than a W.A.G. as to the composition, but they are still there :ph34r: or am i just being stupid and should shape the shank on the belt grinder, cut it off on the band saw, keep the football as is, and maybe take a shot at reforging the grip remainder? to make matters more irritating, this is aparently a discontinued item that they were clearing out in the parking lot sale, so i cant buy more as a hedge against failure, or a platform for lessons learned, or to repeat if successful :angry: i appreciate any input you may have! this is it its about 5.5 pounds of who-knows-exactly-what, black paint on the underside which will need to be stripped. the other side of the grip has FORGED stamped into it, and theres a very pronounced shear/grind/saw looking seam line running the length of the whole thing. minor edits for clarity and skipped words.
  9. Does any one know where I could but an actual anvil and not a railroad track for 60 to 40 bucks? Also equipped with a Pritchel and hardy or Hardie (which ever way)?
  10. Hello Everyone, I am in need of a hardie hot cut-off tool for my Anvil. I would like to forge one myself and looking for some direction. I have thought it thought it through and I am sure I can pull it off but I figured I could get some expert advice to help in the process. Thank you, JR
  11. Ok the vast about of info. is sending me in circles. My plan is to buy stock to make some spring swages and a cutoff hardie (one inch hole). H13 seemed to be a great choice (keeps form at heat, easy? to heat treat, tough). I was reading some of Brian Brazeal's comments about tools and he mentioned that it was very difficult to forge by hand H13. 4140 was available free to him and worked just fine. I see lots of commercially available spring swages and hardies made from 4140 so the metal is a good choice. My question is; What are peoples experience hand forging H13? I'm looking at 1 1/2" rd to work for both my tools. Also how does H13 and 4140 respond to welding (the spring part of swage)? I have access to stick, tig, torch. I can more easily/cheaply get 4140 in square solid bar which makes my life easier. Opinions please?
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