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Found 11 results

  1. First off, I am a slow learner but once I get it I tend to get it as well or better than most. I also learn as I screw up long after training is complete. Since we can't post pics perhaps this is more important. This list will grow over time. They are in no particular order. 1. I learned I could do it too - Hole punch Example: punching a hole. I made a not so neat hole punch tool while he was here. He showed me to punch just like the slot punch video here. http://www.youtube.c...brazealblacksmi I did this three times after he left and have three nice slugs that came right out. This was using my not so neat hole punch. Easier than drilling particularly if the metal is wanting to harden on you. I wanted to show the pics of these slugs as they are beautiful! Now I know I can make my own punchs and use them to make holes that are easy and clean. 2. Have a specific Plan when you go to the Anvil After he left and I was trying to make some stuff. I was frustrated at making very little progress on my project. The more I hit it the more it got screwed up or just did not go anywhere. So now I will do the following. I will not go to the anvil from the forge unless I know how I am going to hold the metal and exactly what kind of hit I am going to make and where how to stand etc. This needs to be very specific! If I make only one good hit that moves me forward with the project then that is success. One good hit is better than 10 pointless whacks. If I can see three good hits then so be it. Eventually I will see the next ten hits clearly and not just bang at it. No more hitting fast just to make sure I get as many hits in before the metal cools. 3. I need to learn to use and make some more tools. We did some C Scrolls and banding. This was easy but is similar to #1. I could make many things from some simple tools using these technigues. Invest the time to make and learn the tools you need to do stuff. Then, make stuff! Sweet! 4. Be Precise first, speed will come in time. This is similar to #2. I was making a leaf and basically used the veining tool to fast and screwed it up. All I needed to do was take my time, Aim, hit precisely and make a good leaf vein. Don't get caught up in the whole "did it all in one heat" macho BS. You ain't gonna start there. 5. Forge/Fire Control I am going to be a bit vague on this one.... Get your fire above the metal and look for the "golden flame". The golden flame heats you up fast. Cranking on the blower at temps below this, conserving fuel and not having your heat above the metal is just wasting time. Brian teaches a lot about basic hammer technigues that I also learned about. However, I think I need to go through much of the above (2,4,5) to really say I have learned those basics. Anyway enough for now. More to come.
  2. Hey Fellows! Here you can watch the tutorial that I made on how to forge Brian´s pick up / hammer making tongs. The video is part of a series of videos Alec and I are going to make to support Brian´s "Tools to make Tools" curriculum the International YoungSmiths team will be going through during the event at Tannehill Forge School of Blacksmithing Summer 2013.
  3. Finished my Brian Brazeal style striking anvil. I made the upper section from 2 sections of 2"x 3" CRS that I picked up as rem. from my supplier for 35 cents a pound. I machined the hardy holes in the mill as a matched pair. Grooved the intersections deep and then welded them all around. Should work ok, now I just need a striker.
  4. Here Brian demonstrates and explains the reasons why a rounding hammer is the most versatile hammer due to the amount of dies avilable. alec
  5. Hey Guys, on friday I forged a Brian Brazeal hammer eye punch top tool.The first one I ever forged under just my own supervision. With Henrick Stark as my striker. Stock material was L6 thermodurable tool steel (56NiCrMoV7) in 1" round. I hope you enjoy the video =) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=nCETra-GCMU Btw not all steps are shown entirely! Yours - Daniel
  6. Hey Fellows! Those of you who frequently read my posts, respectively watch my videos, might already know that I try to work with as many blacksmiths as possible. Especially those in my youngster age. And also that I always have my camera at hand to capture the best moments for me and those that are interested in it as well. So was it that I visited Alec in England over the Easter holly days. I´ve already worked with him two times before and he is not only a colleague, but also became a good friend of mine. We had four days to work, but unfortunately I´ve been sick in the beginning, so we weren´t be as productive as we could have been. Nevertheless we made a bunch of very cool tools both for me and Alec and also some nice artistic items. Furthermore it was a good preparation for he demo at the NWBA in a few months. This is all we´ve produced (On the huge sledge I´ve only made a new handle): This is what I´ve taken home with me: Our last project: A Brazeal style fullering hammer (not a rounding hammer) from 40mm square 1045 steel: One day I was so sick that I could not forge. So I decided to film Alec whilst forging and we made a real little image film for his work. I put all my expertise and efford in the filming and the edit and I really hope it paid for it! (For who is interested: Camera: Canon EOS 650D (Rebel T1i), Lens: EF 24-70mm f/2,8 L II USM) But see yourselves: Last year Alec was on tour with the YoungSmiths, which is an international group of - who guessed it - youngs blacksmiths that was founded by Brian Brazeal. They traveled around the USA and gave public demos. I am always impressed, what skills this young lad, who only reaches up to my chest and is with 15 still three years younger than me, already has. This year I am supposed to also take a course at Brian´s and join the YoungSmiths as well! So my visit at Alec´s place also was meant as a preparation for summer. We also filmed a tutorial about how to forge cranes: There are some more video that are not edited yet. If I decide to upload them I´ll post them here later. I hope you enjoyed my little diary! I am looking forward to a lot of very cool experiences and good crafsmanship with Alec, Brian and the YoungSmiths in summer. This was it from me so far! Yours - Daniel
  7. Ok the vast about of info. is sending me in circles. My plan is to buy stock to make some spring swages and a cutoff hardie (one inch hole). H13 seemed to be a great choice (keeps form at heat, easy? to heat treat, tough). I was reading some of Brian Brazeal's comments about tools and he mentioned that it was very difficult to forge by hand H13. 4140 was available free to him and worked just fine. I see lots of commercially available spring swages and hardies made from 4140 so the metal is a good choice. My question is; What are peoples experience hand forging H13? I'm looking at 1 1/2" rd to work for both my tools. Also how does H13 and 4140 respond to welding (the spring part of swage)? I have access to stick, tig, torch. I can more easily/cheaply get 4140 in square solid bar which makes my life easier. Opinions please?
  8. Hey fellows, another video of Alec and me, this time forging a 1 1/2 inch fuller. This fuller was forged to finish mainly with techniques of Brian Brazeals teaching. This fuller already served me very well with my current projects! I was directing and Alec struck for me, while navigating me through the different steps, so I learned how to direct this tool. I hope you enjoy the video! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=2ShMHn_ofV0 Please take to note that I waived to use any rendered effects or fancy transitions in this video and it is basically a raw cut of all heats we recorded. You can see the fuller on the left hand side: Yours - Daniel
  9. Hey Guys, during my autumn holly days I paid Julien Puy a visit in his shop near Dijon in France. I stayed with his family for four days. I helped him out in the shop, therefore he showed me some cool new stuff. He used to be a blacksmithing instructor for four years and did a lot of traveling around the world especially USA, the Netherlands, Germany and the Czech Republic. On the first day we made this clothes hanger: The second day we made two Brazeal style rounding hammers. One was for a customer of Julien, he was forging and I was striking. Here you can see a video of it: After that we made a second one for me. I forged and he striked. Unfortunately there is no video of it... Toolsteel with a carbon content of 0,48% was used, pretty similar to 1045 or C45 steel. The handle I made myself from African hardwood. The hammer head ways somewhat around 3lbs. It is hardened and partially tempered at the cheeks. The all-in-all price for that one was 150€ (~200$). The next day we made inter alia this axe blank from pure iron I will weld in a cutting edge and finish it soon:
  10. Hey Folks, I´d like to ask for your advise on a project I want to start soon. My shop is half oudoors so I have a roof over the head but literally no walls. Until now I have always had my forge standing just free and hoped for good wind... But as you can imagine I take quite a lot smoke and dust and I mustn´t damage my body with stuff like that at my age. So I want to install a smoke hood over my forge. The only problem is that I only have a very limited budget of about 180$. So I guess I have to take a DIY-solution. After some research and discussions with some fellow blacksmiths I came to the conclution that this design (I know I ain´t very good at drawing...) would give me the biggest bang for my buck: This is my shop: And this is the design I´d like to try: The hood will be built from an old oil barrel, cut out on the front and bent upside to form a guiding-shield. On top of that the chimney will be installed reaching through the roof of my forge with min. 8" diameter. Would you also advise me to do it like that or do you have a solution (any construction plans) that might be more (cost)effective? I´d be very happy about any advise you give me! - Daniel