Chris Covington

i did.. i wanted to try using a plunge router to cut out the space for the tang instead of burning in the tang. It was more for the learning experience than anything else. I ended up with one side a little thicker than other in the end which i didnt like but again it was a learning experience from start to finish

i dont..ill take one when i get home this evening

yes. I did have some instruction from a local MS during the creation of the billet so that definitely helped!

320 layers of 1095/15n20 in a mosiac feather pattern. Guard is pattern welded also. The handle is stabilized burl with buffalo and brass spacers.

the bandsaw blade was from a metal cutting bandsaw and was given to me.

Yes. I annealed them in vermiculite overnight then ground them down to remove the teeth and expose the 2 patterns. The rest was stock removal.

Finished up these 3 knives this week. This blade was from a rasp. The handle is micarta with stainless hardware and blue liner Another rasp blade with brass hardware, cocobola, and spacers This blade was forged from 2 forge welded pieces of cable with 2 pieces of bandsaw blade seperating it. The handle is ebony, malachite spacer, and stainless hardware

My brother came up for the weekend and wanted to forge an axe. I had a really old, large bush hog blade that my dad had given me so i cut off a section and forged welded the head after drawing out the metal some. Came out ok and I learned a ton as this was my first attempt at any type of axe/hatchet.

This weekend I forged a hammer with my Dad. This was the first time I have forged a hammer solo ( without someone more experienced at least watching ). It turned out great. The final weight was around 3lbs 8 oz and was forged from 4140 truck axle that was 1 7/8 diameter and about 4 1/2 inches long (if my memory serves me right ) This could not have been possible without the great mentoring I have recieved from Lyle Wynn, Ed and Brian Brazeal and David Gaddis.

i would love to hear about the materials used and the process as well!

Myself and Stan Bryant spent all day saturday making a pair of striking anvils. The striking plates were cut from a couple of old fork lift tines. They were 2x4x12. We drilled a 3/4 hole and then drifted it to 1 inch square. We actually assembled the stands first using 2 pieces of 1/2 inch plate welded together for the base and 2 inch thick walled square tubing filled with sand for the legs. We used a torch to cut a squarish hold slightly larger than one inch to drift through.

I realize that the iPhone camera isn't the best but you should be able to see the etching on the blade easily. The etch is nice and deep on the blade. Maybe just a crappy picture.

Finished my latest knife the other day. The blade is from forge welded cable. The handle is cocobola with brass and vulcanized spacers.

Forged 5 flatters this weekend with Lyle Wynn, David Gaddis and Stan Bryant. Came out pretty nice.

i ended up heat treating my flatter. I positioned the flatter in my gas forge so that the face of the flatter was facing the burner and the striking end was actually sticking outside of the forge. I was able to get the face non magnetic without getting the rest of the flatter even to a cherry color. After confirming that the face was non magnetic i quenched the face in peanut oil. After letting it quench for about 10 sec or so i removed it and ran a file across the face to test hardness as well as knock the scale off so I could see the temper colors run. The residual heat was such that the colors ran pretty quick and I was able to get the face a nice brown temper color before quenching the whole thing in oil. The end result was a flatter with the face still retaining some extra hardness but the struck end was still soft. I am happy with the result.