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About 19Branden86

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    Central Kansas

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  1. 19Branden86

    Forged Leaf Key Chain

    Forged leaf key chain from 3/16" square bar. Let me know what you guys think! You-tube link removed as per ToS, If you want to show a picture, then just post it
  2. 19Branden86

    Kentucky pistol

    Thank you very much! It took a few weeks to get everything nice and shiny
  3. This was built from Pedersoli's kit. Not bad. I sure enjoyed working on it. I think I'm going to strip the original bluing on it and brown it so it's more historically accurate.
  4. 19Branden86

    Show me your Bottle Openers!

    I call this one my Pair 'O Dice opener.
  5. 19Branden86

    Recent Projects

    Sorry I haven't been posting much. Been busy. Here are a few things I've been working on: Dinner bell triangle, chain links (I needs my forge welding practice! Haha), Work in progress skinning knife from a piece of 1084, coil spring hold fast tool, and some cabinet pulls. I'd like to do a Suffolk latch in the future if any of you fine fellows have any pointers.
  6. 19Branden86

    A few things I've been working on

    Thanks. Further south of Salina. Lyons
  7. Here's a few of my projects. Going to try a humming bird soon
  8. 19Branden86

    Show me your anvil

    Hey Charles R. Stephens, You'll be happy to know that I have replaced my ugly hunka railroad track with this guy. 70 pound TFS farrier anvil!
  9. 19Branden86

    Wood Forge Build

    Almost finished with my raw wood forge. I based my design on the Whitlox forge. All I have left to do is drill the holes in the tuyere and weld a blower mount onto it. It will use a 1:32 drive hand crank blower. It's lined with kaowool and firebrick. After everything is all said and done I'm going to give everything a thin coat of Meeco Red Devil 3000 degree refractory. I know it seems like overkill but I really want all my heat to remain in the forging area and not sync into the steel frame.
  10. 19Branden86

    Rivet Heading

    I want to start making tongs and such for different applications. Right now all I have are my set of German Wolfjaw tongs. Tongs are usually riveted together. Now, the most common I have seen is the flathead rivet. I like the look of the button head. Doesn't really matter, I know, they both work the same. It's more of just a personal preference. I wanted to know, if I just drill a shallow hole into a block of mild steel and just use that to upset a small piece of bar stock into, would I get the desired result I want, for the most part, or would my time and energy be better spent on a different method?
  11. 19Branden86

    Sweet Spot

    I have a rivet forge that I made from everybody's favorite, a deep brake rotor. I've been using it for nearly a year now with coal I have been getting from Amazon. I'm tired of paying $30 for a 30 pound box of coal. The nearest place that sells it is a 4 hour round trip. I work 55 hours a week and have a beautiful wife and 6 wonderful children which makes it hard to take a road trip for some coal. Now, long story short, I'm going to start buying bags of lump charcoal to forge with. It's relatively inexpensive here, much more so than what I have been paying for coal. I know coal has a reducing layer, a sweet spot, so to speak, that produces less fire scale for doing forge welds. Having used coal for so long, I have gotten fairly decent at finding that sweet spot in a coal fire and have done some decent welds, such as attaching two separate pieces with a scarf weld and faggot welding bar stock to make basket twists and such. My question is two-fold: Does the sweet spot depth change much with charcoal? If so, I will have to make the appropriate changes to my forge, and 2: Does charcoal produce more or less scale in general?
  12. 19Branden86

    Almost there!

    I've got 2 coats of refractory on a 1 inch layer of kaowool. Gives me about a 4 inch opening on either end of the forge. Gives me just under 88 cubic inches of volume. And, as you can see, I ditched my first burner in favor of Frosty's Venturi T burner. That's my first time working with refractory and was almost aggravated because of the fact that it looked like wet sand but discovered after some reading that it's not sand but rather a mixture of sodium silicate and the gritty stuff is aluminium oxide and crystalline silica. Now all I need is to let it dry and finish putting together the brass gas line that connects to the burner and it's ready for forging!
  13. 19Branden86

    Burner Build

    I took a design from a friend of mine who built his own burner for his 5 gallon bucket foundry, but before I assembled I read through the burner 101. Here's how my build is set up: It's all black pipe except for the brass hose connection. I have two 3/8" couplers welded together. The bottom coupler has aspiration holes drilled into it (See third photo). The top coupler has a 3/8" plug in it with a hole drilled through it about the diameter of mig welding wire. The bottom coupler also has a 3/8" by 2" nipple threaded into it. The nipple extends down into the main body of the burner to about the location of my thumb in the second picture. The end of the burner has holes drilled in it in sort of a rosebud pattern (4th photo). This is sort of a prototype. I haven't tried it yet. Was looking for some feedback before I did so I can make the changes I need. The burner will be attached to gas hose with a needle valve. The forge cavity it will be heating is 4" in diameter and 6" long (bean can forge) so that's what? Pi x Radius squared x length. Around 75 or 76 cubic inches of furnace area.
  14. 19Branden86

    Burner location on a small forge

    If I replace the stainless tube with black iron pipe and the rosebud end with some heavier gauge steel , say 12 or so, will that extend the life of my burner a little? I know the heat will oxidize the iron but it'll be a little heavier.
  15. 19Branden86

    Burner location on a small forge

    Here's the burner setup. I basically made an oversized naturally aspirated rosebud out of some plumbing parts from the local hardware store