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Found 7 results

  1. Hey, me again! Not much progress with the sword, as to be expected. I'm still setting up the new place, I will hopefully make a killer forge in a week, and then some tools to pile up. This is the problem: I want to make a sword with a base thickness of 5-7mm, base width of 2.5-3 centimeters and length of at least one meter, and a lot of extra material to grind because I don't trust myself enough with making clean forging work in there. I've got a 5mm thick 6cm wide 70cm long piece of spring steel. to get both higher thickness, length and take advantage of the axcess width I wa
  2. I made this rivet heading/upsetting tool today based vaguely on pictures I saw online. I think it will work all right, I plan on using it to make some tong rivets soon. Stupidly, the center of mass makes the spring side dip down when trying to clamp it in the post vise... I might shorten it up someday so it doesn't take 3 hands to use this thing. I'll also take a die grinding bit to the countersinks and round them over some more tomorrow. I clamped a shim in the jaws when drilling the holes so they will grip the rod well. The holes are 1/4, 3/8, 5/16, and 1/2".
  3. Using TPAAAT. Probably 150lbs. What's the pocket for? Upsetting? Anyone with an idea of maker? That's concrete sprayed all over it. The "pocket" is about 1 1/4" in diameter at the bottom with rounded corners. It's hard to see but there's a clip horn.
  4. Hey pals, just me forging an over kill nail to practice both tapering large stock material and striking/upsetting in a swage block: http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=LrYuATVaeTE As always a high-res picture of the finished product: Yours - Daniel
  5. In response to a question regarding the use of some of the tools illustrated in Introduction to Blacksmiths tools, I will try to illustrate how they are used when making a tenon. The tenon we are making is one that was used on a hanging basket. The tools we are using are; butcher, side set, set hammer, and possibly a square edge block /hardie if your anvil does not have a good clean square edge. Before starting, the mating part, (in this case the backplate) was completed and ready for fitting, this gives a size to work to for the tenon to be made to fit, in this case we are using a sq
  6. Don't find a technique forum, so posting here. Apologies if this isn't the right forum. How do you upset to one side of a square rod? I've wanted to make a pair of holdfasts for a joiners workbench since I first read about a guy named Rob Tarule using them in an article in Fine Woodworking. They're very fast and flexible compared to a vise. Since I read that article, Chris Schwarz has gone on a tear and popularized the Roubo workbench, so much so that you can't hardly swing a dead possum without hitting one on the Interwebs. Peter Ross recently made a close if not exact replica
  7. I’m interested in knowing the most efficient method of upsetting the end of ¾ and 1” square bars. The process of forming a 50% larger bulged end for table legs up to 45” long. I need a more productive way to accomplish this than, dropping a hot bar on end on a heavy plate on the floor, or hand hammering it while supported through a square hole in a big swage block. I’ve been thinking about making a 50-75 lb treadle or pneumatic hammer, with the front of the anvil open and shaped like a u. Make the anvil from three very heavy bars or plates welded together. I could then place a removable die
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