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About Jay.bro

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    Senior Member

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  • Location
    Polk county, Arkansas
  • Interests
    Mythology, gaming, cooking, farm work, blade collecting, hunting, fishing, etc.

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  1. I thought it was an American star too until I found that the star was a 5 point star this is a 6 point but it may have changed at some point I'm just not sure. I have read several posts about not grinding on it or anything like that the only thing besides hot metal the face of this anvil may see is my wood handled wire brush I'm really excited about it I just realized that railroad spikes are the perfect size for the hardy hole so I think I found what I can make a few hardy tools from to get started I actually found a post on here asking about the same star design but nobody that commented had a definitive answer on who made it. I love it though it's my first anvil with a horn so I get to learn to use the horn now
  2. Hey everybody. I just wanted to share the pics of my new Anvil my wife picked up for me the other day, at our local pharmacy of all places. She said she paid 200 USD for it. (I'm pretty sure she overpaid) it's only about 60 lbs (haven't weighed it yet on our scales just going off what she said she was told when she got it.) The face isn't in the best shape but I think it's still useable. My steel ball bearing bounces back about 8 inches when dropped from 10 inches. The only marks I could find are the big star on the side and the 7 under the horn. I also found 3 little "holes?" In the horn that make the shape of a triangle but it has a useable work area and I like it. The ruler was for size reference. I still have my steel top hat I had been using but now I have a London pattern and I'm really happy to see my wife's support of my hobby. No idea of the maker after about a week of research. I'm really happy with it though.
  3. I'm not sure if it's bituminous or anthricite the guy that has it buys it in a big truck load about 3 hours away and brings it here to his little shop and I only found out about it from a guy I work with that I just found out does smithing and a little foundry work. I know the cost of a bag of Royal oak that's 16 lbs was 14 dollars the last time I bought it and with the season where everyone does BBQ and grills coming up I expect that to inflate a bit. I have actually been drawing designs for stuff I wanna try on a sketch pad and in my graph book I have a waste oil burner plan that's similar to one from vegoilguy on YouTube channel but it's still in the design and learn and research phase. I tend to plan much more than I did before building this newest forge but it did get the job I needed it to do done. I did burn through a whole bag of charcoal doing it and tinkering with crucible equipment I've been building.
  4. I work for a company that makes pallets so I throw them all day and I've been working with my box of dirt for a couple of years now just small projects, hooks, tools, etc, but I recently got asked to make something for someone at work and I tried forge welding in my box of dirt but it didn't quite hold up to the task and I had tried a trench before and it worked very well. That's the main reason I tried this set up. I actually disassembled my big bottom blast forge that burned out to make room for a cabinet. I never used it so it wasn't a big deal. I had considered a pile of bricks but I just had been needing a bit more of an open fire pot and I threw this together cause it was the best way for me to learn I actually wanna experiment with coal and I figured this design would be a good design for fuel diversity. There's a guy here that sells it for 20 USD for 50 lbs and I figured I could afford to try it out.
  5. Dislocated it throwing a pallet down but it won't be long before it's better
  6. Okay thanks I'm gonna do some more modifications and testing to it as soon as my thumb heals up and this rain goes away
  7. Oh okay I think I see what you are saying now out of curiosity would it work if I just welded it at an angle from just in front of the tuyere to the side opposite the tuyere instead of bending it since the pipe is pretty solid already and I suspect it would need to be moved for this modification. I do like that idea and I planned on something similar with the other half but instead of the cutting 1 side off I just am gonna cut down one corner of it and open it up to where the top is straight up and down and the bottom maintains the 90° but that was another project for another time
  8. I know I have one I built I just wanted something a little more portable my box of dirt is so heavy and I had this tube iron and I just had the idea I do want to try to build a few other forges but this was just a new thing I came up with I hadn't seen before
  9. I actually don't have a welder I have to have ppl I know help me with that and I've considered this kind of forge too I just had this tube iron and just tried this idea and no other use for it. I actually still have 2 foot of this tube iron left I figured this could be used for bigger projects and I can always modify it as I need to with simple adjustable things or even add some dirt to it if nothing else but this was to test this design possibility but I have seen your design and do really want to try it out too
  10. Well I have some clay bricks I plan on cutting at a 45 for the adjusting the fire pot size to accompany the drop down piece that will create a wall on one of the openings I did notice the way it was starting to warp I just used it to forge weld some band saw blades for a project I have so I do plan on addressing that I really fought with this one since I didn't have the right drill bit to cut the tuyere hole so I ended up cold chiseling a lot of it and then forcing the pipe through at the end but it's really solid without even welding it. I really liked my jabod forge and recently built a jabod foundry that is still being modified but I find the designs I used to limit my projects a lot. Oh and I did notice it was very fuel hungry I even considered trying to get some coal for this forge to see if it worked better. Progress on it has slowed due to a dislocated thumb and rain though but I will keep this updated I just never found a thread with a forge like this on here so I figured it might give new members another good direction they could go.
  11. Hey guys I just wanted to show y'all my newest forge I just built and tested. It works pretty good but still needs a few things before it's finished. I built it from a piece of tube iron I cut one side off of and I'm gonna put 2 slits in that side so I can slide it down on one end to keep the fuel source in and will make it adjustable for smaller projects. I may add a spot on top of one of the sides to hold the charcoal before it goes into the fire. I still gotta add legs too and I am gonna add a bleeder valve to make the air flow adjustable with a hole in the side of the tuyere that I can put a slide pipe on to make it more adjustable for my hair dryer. But this really worked well when I tested it. Let me know what you guys think.
  12. Yeah I figured as much irondragon that's why I turned to the most experienced group of ppl I knew to ask
  13. Okay thank you Steve that's what I was wanting to know I seen several youtubers that claim plaster would work and several ppl say they use it on other forum sites I think I'll find some refractory to pour over the kaowool instead
  14. I've been researching the web and all of the forums and I've had a small hiccup with my first foundry build. I built a box of dirt foundry and ended up burning through the bottom of it and caught it on fire a little bit. I plan on modifying it but I picked up a 20 lbs propane tank today that has a valve issue and I got to thinking. Does anyone have experience with pouring plaster of Paris and play sand mix over kaowool for use in a charcoal foundry I'm only going to be melting mostly aluminum, brass, copper and possibly try my hand at making some bronze or aluminum bronze in the future once I get more practiced. I'm just beginning my journey into metal casting but I've done a ton of research and I've read a few things about casting refractory over kaowool but not plaster/sand mix. I know its better to buy a tested refractory I was just looking at alternative options. Any advice would be appreciated and thank you in advance.
  15. It works great I think I need to make a few modifications but it's dirt that's easy to fix it gets good and hot but I couldn't get it to forge weld not sure if it was me not being practiced enough the stock I tried to use or I need to raise the bottom to make the fireball sit even with the top of the dirt instead of an inch below I got it to a bright orange but not yellow or white it's probably me still not being very practiced with fire management yet. I like the economy though and control is good as long as I don't put the hairdryer too close to the tuyere and catch it on fire again when the tuyere vacuums fire out of the fire pot after you shut off the hairdryer. But anyways I think it needs a few modifications to get it just right.