marcusb

Thanks for all the replies and input guys. The wood used to mount the vise is oak 4"x4". The floor block rest's on the floor and is bolted to the runner on the table legs, also a 4x4. the table is short, the block is drilled nearly thru to the concrete. The blocks above are oak 4x4 and are thru bolted to the table. The vise bracket is held on with lag bolts 3.5" into the oak. The table is bolted to 2 "runners" of the same oak that I tapered on the ends so the table can be drug around as needed. I like the idea of holddowns. There are many exsisting holes in the table but I wouldnt mind a few more.

hello all, Im in the process of setting up a blacksmithing area in my garage. I have looking for ways to mount a couple vise's i have. While at local scrap yard recently I found a nice steel table. Top is 1" thick and frame is 2" tube. Weighs in at 680 pounds. I wanted something solid that i dont have to bolt down so I went with something heavy. I decided to mount one post vise and one bench vise opposite of each other. I left the space on the ends open to provide work space (catch junk) Here are a few pics, if you can see anything I could change to improve it let me know. Thanks

I like it alot, I hope to build one myself someday. Did you build it from a plan?

Anyone using a Pro Forge? Im looking at a 200 model and would love some feedback. I have decided to invest in a propane forge and am trying to compare the Pro to a Chili

Hi guys I finally found a heavy duty table to hold the large bench vise (290 pounds) I have had for awhile now. The table has 1" steel top and I swore I read somewhere, that cast vises mounted directly to steel could be a bad idea. I have some oak planking I could put underneath the vise if it is truly needed? Anyone heard of this or seen results first hand? I appreciate any info Thanks Marcus

here is my current pile Picked up a great table on friday and am currently working on getting a couple right side up

I have used a hand truck or walking the anvil+stand side to side to move my anvil around pretty easy

Heres my only anvil. A hay budden. Stand is 4x4 oak on the corners and the center, covered with plywood and filled with sand.

To clear up some apparent misunderstanding, I stated above what the last 200+ good condition anvil with a busted rear end sold for on craigslist in my area. I also noted it sold quickly indicating that it was priced on the low end. SO, in OHIO that 300 would be on the high end for what it is but not terribly out of line. One could draw from this statement that, in anvil poor areas, the price would be in line. Hence the statement below "your mileage may vary"

Well, since the tip plate is gone in the rear I would consider it heeless. Last one that size I saw sold quicky at $100 YMMV

Had to be a HEAP round "high exsplosive armor punching"

When living in an apartment, I just kept accumulating tools until I could find a place that I could afford with a garage

Looks like they found that one on the bottom of a Pond! Good luck

If you can find KROIL is will penetrate like no other. I have used it to free parts laying in fields for decades. They claim it will penetrate 1 millionth of 1 inch, and there not kidding http://www.kanolabs.com/

I have been watching that one for awhile, 3as hoping it went to a good home. You sure did drive a ways for it!

Trying not to get to far off the topic,but I must address the absurd bomb......... :) When it comes to strength, the grain always wins, commercial handles look uniform but the cost is grain violation, and doing this weakens the wood. Hickory is the most forgiving of this, hence the use for handles. But when the two are strained, the crooked handle that follows the grain will take a much greater strain. Works for bows, works for handles. As for a stock source, I cut all mine off my family farm, only source I know of is staves which you will pay $65 dollars and there only 1/4 of a 6' log, for that price is hard to justify. If you dont have any luck commercialy let me know, we can work something out, I have piles of hickory cut

Where do you guys find them? They look/sound like the cats meow! Cant even find them on ebay, im guessing few were made, or they are so darn handy people dont let them go????

All you really need is a draw knife and a wedge, stuff splits great. Riveing out you handles make them far stronger than the modern counterparts

I am looking for something similar myself, not willing to take a 20 pound hammer to my pretty HB. I imagine one missed blow would wreck an anvil edge when using big hammers

Modern Day bridge anvil!!!!!

Looks like it has seen some rough treatment. Personally I would start smithing on a large hunk of scrap and hold out for a nice anvil. Good thing about this plan you learn hammer control and spare the edges! Have you tried to barter with him any? Maybe he would take less???

I recently moved my modest shop to our new home. All told it took one Uhaul truck load. I used steel drums for the steel and durable stuff. Loaded them full and wheeled them right up the ramp with a hand truck.

Update! Picked up nearly 40 Refractory brick from a memeber on here, trying to decide if I should build a steel or wood frame. Currently plan to lay up corners with cement block, but to span/contain the brick im not sure

I am not a fan of grinding, but that face looks like it needs some attention. I agree with some others, only knock down the shallow stuff, once its off its heck to put it back!

Picked up a like new pair of flat tongs today for $2, In the bottom of a pile of junk tools Keep your eyes peeled