Stash

Hey Emile, welcome to the site. That is not like the Acme anvils we have here in the states. That is (I believe) a north German style double horned anvil, and she is a beauty. I can't help with ID beyond that. As far as price, that is dependent on where you are posting from. Here in the US that could fetch easily $2000 if it is indeed 200K. DO NOT GRIND on the face. You might want to edit your profile to give us an idea of your location- someone here might be just down the street from you. Steve

Hey 671- be aware that all walnut species contain the alleopathic toxin 'juglone' in all parts, including chipped branches and leaves. It will kill tomatoes and peppers if mulched with them, as well as many annual flowers, perennials and shrubs and trees. The toxin biodegrades in time, I couldn't tell you how much time it takes. You might want to google ' juglone toxicity in ornamental plants" or some such wording. Lots of sites have lists of plants organized by yes/no/maybe in regards to the toxins effect on them. During my time as a landscape contractor I had lists of plants I could plant successfully near walnuts. Steve

Late to the party, but glad to hear you are doing well, Das. Prayers for a quick recovery. I took my wife to the ER a few years back experiencing similar symptoms as yours. Doc had to remove a bad gall bladder as well as a ready to pop appendix. Thanks for modern meds, she just had 3 incisions. Take it easy. Steve

Awww, that's a cutie. Can't help with ID, but I can recommend you don't use your 4kg sledge on it. Steve

I've been tracking things since your first post. My thought on the issue would be to first identify the BS stuff and separate it out from the other junk. Sort the junk into scrap and viable sellable stuff and then deal appropriately. This is getting the place cleaned up and showing husband you are serious about making it work. You will need to take a serious look at the building- maybe bring in a contractor friend for a realistic appraisal, to access the viability of keeping/repairing it. This might end up forcing your hand or give you some ammo in favor of restoration. This is where the heavy conversation will probably need to start. Regarding the pile of set-aside BS stuff, you probably need some help from someone knowledgeable to help ID what it is, what it is worth, and what would be appropriate for you to keep for your own setup, both present and future. Just try to get the unknowns answered so you can have an educated conversation. Good luck. Steve

That is pretty much what I have. I have a simple cap for when I'm not using it. I did have one of those wind operated turbine spinnymathings, but strong winds this past spring sent bearings flying all over the place, so I pulled it off and went with (as my son called it) my hilbilly cap. Steve

TJ- you will be ok with a 10' run of 12" pipe. Thats what I'm running in my setup. I did a side sucker- a 4' long 13" square steel box that passes thru the wall of my shed. The stack is mounted on the end of the outside section and is braced to the building. The inner section has a mousehole shaped opening on the end, and it is placed at the edge of my firepot, just a few inches above it. Doing it this way avoided the need for roof penetration and the leaks that usually come along with them. I have a great draft with this setup. By the way, the stack is galvanized and never gets so hot that it can't be touched. The box is welded 10 ga mild steel, painted on the outside. Steve

I concur with Anvil, re the gas saver and the pipe clamps. You can make pipe clamps any size you want. Steve

Well you still would have an 8" throat that will restrict the flow. If you are marginally handy with sheet metal work, you have another option. Cut your hood down so you have a 12" opening, then fab up your adapter to go from there to the 12" flue pipe. You should be able to do it with sheet metal screws and metallic tape if needed. The chimbly guys were probably quoting you for double wall stainless pipe, which is very spendy. You just need single wall galv ducting and watch your detailing where you pass thru the roof. You won't get hot enough to burn off the zinc. For a handy person this should be a simple diy. Steve

Thomas- is the WI seller Jeff Funk? I recall him having had cut up a bridge a while ago. He is in MT. Steve

If I recall, Rowan is one of the common names for the Sorbus genus, I think in your area is Sorbus aucuparia, other common name "mountain ash". Not a true ash, but I'm sure it has proved itself to be useful for you. Just saying..... Steve

My Bader is a single speed, it suits MY needs fine. I have 2 sizes of drive wheels in case I wanted to change things a bit. Steve

You just beat me to the punch, John. That's my go- to dad joke. Steve

One of the demonstrators at ABANA in Richmond talked about his "drainage ditch patination process". I guess it takes a little longer. New England School of Metalwork suggested a spray composed of (if I remember correctly) vinegar, salt and hydrogen peroxide. Just spray it frequently on your piece for a few days and a nice crusty patina builds up. Steve

I was given some coal to sample that acted the same way yours did. It seemed to be bituminous, created decent coke, but had a lot of volatiles in it, hence the flames. I wondered if it was stoker coal- furnace fuel soaked with fuel oil. I couldn't get rid of the junk fast enough. As far as getting a pickup load, that is your call. Is that the only coal you have access to? Is the nuisance factor worth putting up with? I had access to better supply, and went in that direction. YMMV Steve

Yes. They are both very good quality 'Murican made anvils. Steve

Hey Bob- that's a Trenton, the 200 is the weight and the other # is the serial #. We'll wait for someone with a copy of AIA to stop by and give you the date. Real good anvil, too. Steve

First thing that comes to mind for me: " Don't try for the pogo-stick record next to that plate glass sliding door.". Steve

Hey Justin- here's specs from my Fisher 250# for your reference: Hardy hole 1 1/4 " sq. Base 11 1/2 x 12 1/2" plus mounting lugs, 13" tall. Face is 18 1/2" x 5 1/4". Overall length is 31" from tail to blunted tip. Hope this helps. Steve

Hey Marty, I'm also guessing your anvil was made by the same company that made "Trenton" stamped anvils, i think it was Columbus Iron and Forge. I have an anvil stamped both Acme and Trenton, has the weight (100) stamped on the front left foot and no serial number on the right front foot, as yours has. Seeming lack of consistency in the stamping procedures. I'm sure you have figured out by now, she's going to ring like a bell. There are a few threads on quieting her down. I don't have a copy of AIA, so I can't help with the serial number. It should serve you well. Steve

Luckily no damage to the oven. That would have given you a week or so sleeping in the forge. Steve

It seems another thought would be the taper of the punch from the working end. I have some old handled punches that have minimal taper for up to 1 1/2" from the working end before they start to thicken up that would be good for the thicker stock. Other punches start a pretty steep taper right away. Shouldn't be a major issue punching 3/8 thru 2" stock, given the proper tool alloy, amount of taper, lube and cooling practice. YMMV Steve

Looks like it would be a good deep- throat welding clamp for a platen or welding table. Steve

Good digging there, Don. The info is out there, you just need to work for it. Steve

Interesting. I didn't realize it was named for John Moses as mentioned above Thanks for the info Mr Moses- Morrick. I somehow was imagining the real Moses forging out some bullrushes or something. Steve