clinton

I am in a "anvil poor" area and $2.00 / lb would be a bargain, $4.00 / lb is what people are trying to get here and some of them have stacks of them in thier yards (I guess thats why its anvil poor now)

That is a good example of Bull Kelp on the fire place screen. The kelp that I am working on is quite different from that. I am still working on the texture die, I got a little busy with birthday parties and looking for work the last couple of days. I did rebuild the saddle that clamps to my lower die and holds the swage in the hammer. The first one I made was not rigid enough to do the job and was working loose so it had to be rebuilt. Here is a picture that I found on Wikipedia of what they call Brown Giant Kelp

http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/21309-power-hammer-tong-jig-ii/page__fromsearch__1 I used this info provided by Gearhartiron it works real well for me

Looks a lot like the one that I built using plans from Valley Forge & Welding- not the same hammer but close to the plans that Jere sells

Beth- I chose to make the die in a two part set up because of the amount of material that is being forged and the size limits of my power hammer. I did not think that I could forge this size in one shot with my power hammer. Also I can vary the size of the forging a little so I get some that are short and some longer. My plan right now is to make a sample grill using this element so I can show it to potential customers (I really do not have any orders at this time) Fe- there is no flashing going on and I do understand what you are saying, by starting the point first before going into the swage I avoid this type of problem, the point is where the majority of the movement is going on

I got the swage working like a dream, I just forge the stem area down to about 1/2 inch dia leaving around 1 1/2 inches of parent stock and start the point in the same heat. Then while that is in the forge I put the spring swage in and use it to finish off. I can use the swage to do the point without starting it first but it seems to work better if I start the point before going to the swage its alot of material to move, I am forging this with 3/4 inch round stock

The best use for them is............. Repairing an old wood sash window, I save them for when I remove a window to install new glass or other repair the cords that hold the weight are often rotted away and the weight falls down inside the wall cavity, they can be a pain to fish out easier to just install another one

Nice work, that had to be a challenge to get done with the experience level and the tight quarters of the shop. Nice shop and I also enjoyed the yard art you have there, all the old farm implements and stuff. This would be on my list of things to see in Ireland along with a tour of the Jameson factory.

Have someone hold it on top of your anvil and use a sledge hammer, a couple of good whacks should do it

I saw a bumper sticker for a fab shop it said, "Our welders can fill any crack" maybe give them a call

That thing dwarfs the L-G. Glad you got it there, I just wish it was closer to my shop (4 hour drive to play) I like the tie down job you did, lots of chains and binders that thing was not going anywhere. Now get to work on the footing and bolt it down. Oh I have some 1 inch threaded rod if you need it

I finished the swage tool today and it works pretty good so I am happy with that. I just need to figure out the best sequence and dimensions to get optimum results. I forged a few blanks today and I ran out of material and time so I will have another go at it tomorrow.

I have seen this done with pipe, and it is probably easier to do that way, but I want to do them out of solid stock one piece. John B- we are on the same page here, I hope to finish the swage today and try it out. I had to reshape a piece of round stock to make the swage, it was a piece of 1 3/4 inch round that I forged into 1 3/4 x 1 1/8 the material is 4140

I want to forge some kelp and it is a tricky shape. I plan on using this element in different gates and railing projects in the future so I want to be able to make several pieces in an efficient manner. What I am thinking is a spring swage that has two shapes- one side does the point and the other side does the bulb at the rear. Then once the bulb is shaped flatten and texture the end to finish the element. Here is the kelp that I gathered at the beach, it was hot here so it got dried up some on the flat tail section. They measure around 3 inches long and about 7/8 inch round at the wide point. They do vary in size of course, some smaller and some bigger. I think there are texture swages that will do the flat part, but I plan to make a swage for the bulb end that I can use under the power hammer

Fuller or file so there is no sharp edge. and you have to control movement. Flopping back and forth at black heat is no good. You sure did not waste any time finding a flypress- what did you get? I have been looking but with no work now it is just looking.

Find someone with a water jet machine

Myself- I would pass at that price. I do not like things that have been messed with in this manner. I would not go more than $1000 for a hammer in that condition

Much easier to run a flat belt, you can have one made for a reasonable price from here http://www.hitnmiss.com/index.html They have pulleys also, you will need to install a pulley first to be able to measure for the belt

Those are nice. How do you make them?

I am a big "Buy American" nut. You can not go wrong with the quality of Victor torches. Now on the other hand my first set of torches that I got at a yard sale is a cheap import set that is still what I have been using for the last 15 years with no problems. I have been using the import regulators and Victor cutting torch (It is just a cutting torch- long handle) The other torch body that I use for welding or rosebud is the cheapo import and it works just fine. I was going to sell the set at a yard sale for $50.00 and no one bought it, so I put it back in service.

What page is that on in the Weygers book?

Build yourself a mounting bracket and a spring and put it to use. Add a couple of washers or an old throw- out bearing if it does not close all the way

I took all of my tools with me to Octoberfest, but I got busy and never got around to showing Evfreek. (Doooahht!) The anvils were not really set up to do the heavy forging on so I felt that it would be a waste of time trying to make hammers. I will be making a striking anvil soon as well as the rest of the tools (I still need a top fuller and a handled slitter to be properly set up)

Yes it is a good looking hammer, I went to look at it last week for Fe. I am glad that it was still there when he was able to see it for himself. It was too big for my back yard shop, if it were a 100 pound hammer I would have tried to work out a deal for myself.

We all had a great time at the Octoberfest. It was a good turn out as usual. I got to do some forging at the midnight madness and showed a couple of guys how to make the horse heads (Brian Brazeal style). Michael got a pretty good one made on his second attempt, I was impressed. I sold a few bottle openers, bbq forks, a leg vice and 3 pairs of old tongs so I came home with more money than I left with (That's a first). Also I donated two bbq forks and two bottle openers to iron in the hat and the auction. The fork went for $50 and the bottle opener raised $15 for the CBA in the auction.