clinton

Nice score- that is a sweet looking anvil. Upon further investigation (Anvils in America) Mr Postman reports only finding11 Henry Wright anvils as of 1995. So it seems quite rare, he also reports that the weight is usually in actual pounds and he found only one that was marked in stone weight- stamped on the opposite side from the trade mark. I had no idea that this seller had a vise also- lucky for you I was not working at the time also so I had to pass it straight to you. I will pick stuff up and re-sell when I find a good deal. I make a few bucks, not a big mark up. So that is a Henry Wright vise? They are sweet, I just sold one to Fewood last year- found it at the antique fair in Moss Landing.

yep

Shoo goo

You really do not want to weld with A-C current unless you are welding aluminum with a tig torch then you have no choice. I have never seen an engine drive welder that put out A-C only. The millers are probably the best out there now, I sure do like how the run NR 232. I would go for the Trail Blazer, 250 would be fine

I once bought a Victor cutting torch and regulators on the side of the road for $40.00. The torch is 4 feet long great for demolition. Out here tanks can be found cheap and as long as they are owner tanks you just exchange it for a full one- no paperwork no questions. But you do get to pay the state for the "Hazardous material fee"

Do you use the shaper for the dove tail? Looks like a good project, keep us posted

I will be there this will be good. Hopefuly get to spend some shop time with Fe as well.

I was looking at flights and found round trip for $450 San Jose CA to Rapid City and I maybe able to barrow a car there. If I could take more time off work I would consider the drive.

I remove all guards from my grinders and chop saw at home. Most jobs that I get on they are required, and removing them or pinning them up will get you removed from the job. I find that they get in the way of most work that I am doing, I deal with it on the job site but at home I choose to go with out and I still have all my digits.

Doc- I will do that, thanks Ironwolf- the rod that I used is called "Kar, Karalloy" I do not think this company is around anymore. This rod was in a large rod oven that I bought years ago. There was about 250 lbs of misc. rod in the oven when I bought it. The seller asked me if I wanted to take the rod, or he was going to just throw it away. There is a bunch of chromoly rod in there as well, a bunch of "mystery rod" and a box of Stoody hard facing rod (good for anvil repair) Thomas- I think it would have been more work to forge a new piece but that is an option if it breaks again. It is pretty thick with a recessed area to hold the babbit, it could be forged with the help of a striker

I would say that is a great price for what is offered and would not wait another minute in getting there. Just be sure the tanks are not maked on the ring (watch the video) You can tell the guy the tanks will need testing and get him to come down (most people do not know how to tell and if you present yourself as an authority on the subject they will agree) For that price you better hurry

Thanks Ten Hammers I had to do some grinding to chop down the "Rocky Mountains" that was the part that was not pretty, welding on cast iron is a little hit and miss. I think it is the impurities in it that make the weld run weird at times. I have seen some amazing braze welds that were done on cast, like the apron on my South Bend lathe. Someone broke it in two then brazed it back together and it runs smooth and true.

Use the 6011 rod 1/8 dia should work fine. 7018 would also be a good choice but you may want to step down the dia and go with 3/32 for this machine and it sounds like an overhead weld so 3/32 would be eaiser to control. I would stay away from the 6013 unless you want the "dog xxxx" look and little or no penetration

Fire sprinklers and forges are not a good combination

Thanks, Jerry- The oil reservoir will just stay open, that's how it was before. The babbit is still around, I ordered it from Sid at Little Giant, his price seemed reasonable and I know its the right stuff, there are many different types. This repair was not pretty, but it stayed straight and it is sound metal so I should have no problem in the future.

I needed to repair a bearing cap for my power hammer, it was broken when I bought the hammer and someone put a saddle over it to hold it together. I am in the process of re-pouring the babbit bearings so this is the best time to do the repair. This is a simple job, most of the time is in the prep work. You need to grind out a "V groove" so you can get access to the root on the repair. Once I had enough space to get a weld in I welded both pieces to a chunk of heavy plate that I had laying around. I preheated the whole thing to around 150 degrees, then started filling the joint using a cast iron rod. Run the root pass, making sure you tie into both sides, then run stringer beads until you have about 1/8 inch of build up above the parent material. I left it to cool overnight (this heavy plate was holding lots of heat so it cooled slow) then cut the welds loose for clean up. This was a little tricky because the break went right through one of the holes, I used a die grinder to open the hole back up for mounting. I also replaced the oil reservoir that had been ground down to accommodate the saddle

Some tanks are marked by companies that are no longer in business, Linde is one that is very common out here in CA and probably all over the country. The bottles that are marked by companies that are no longer in business are "Owner cylinders" meaning whoever has it in their possession owns it. I have also seen cylinders marked "US Air Force" that are mixed in with the owner bottles. The place where I shop has never asked me for any paper work, but they do charge an inspection fee for every tank you bring in, also we get charged "Hazardous material fee" for just about any thing they sell- gasses or other welding consumables. That video does have some good info for starters but there are some more things that I look at when purchasing tanks- Any damage to a tank that is visible will probably not pass inspection- dents, arc strikes, deformed cylinder. I do not worry about the hydro test dates, but you can use them to get the guy to drop the price some if you tell him the tank is out of date and re-testing is going to cost you $30.00. Propane tanks have to be tested out here also, but sometimes the guy on the loading dock does not check so if you are lucky you can exchange an out of date tank for one that is current

Anchor it into the concrete. I used 2 x 4 inch tube steel for the legs on my 6 inch vise, and used 3/8 inch "Red Head" anchors. it does not move at all. I drill through the slab when I use anchors so I can drive them down when I move things around.

Excellent how- to John. Our local junior college has a braze weld test that uses 1/2 inch square stock, the ends are beveled at 45 degree angle leaving a small land at the point. Once the weld is complete and allowed to cool it is put to a 360 degree twist test. It can be done, it takes most students 2 or 3 times to get right. I still have my test coupon from 1986

1971 VW Bus, a real work horse, this is a trip to see Fewood My 1973 F-250 good solid truck taking a load of scrap to recycle Then bringing home what I found at the recyclers

Use this product to join the pieces together. I have repaired car door handles that are made of pot metal and can not be welded. I used this to attach a piece of redwood for a handle on a big cleaver that I made about 15 years ago and it is still holding. Get both pieces clean and let it set for a good 24 hours before moving it.

Ah- so they ran out of room for the 0 and put it in front of the 14, oops.

Shoo Goo

That does look like an "O" in the picture. It looks like maybe they forgot one number. Upon further investigation, Mr Postman states on pg 339 Anvils in America, " The anvil maker would often put the first initial of his last name to the left of the weight on the front of the foot." It looks like a letter "O" not a number "0" Maybe they had misplaced the other stamp needed for the weight or they just forgot to stamp it.

Sometimes the stamp guy grabs the wrong stamp. I have an 84 lb Arm and Hammer anvil with the 4 being stamped forward and backwards