clinton

That anvil was made in 1912 according to Anvils In America, value depends on condition and location

I use just regular old grease in mine but it rarely gets under 50 degrees fahrenheit here

It seems real quiet for a needle scaler- did you do something to it to control the noise?

What makes it work? I can not really see the picture is very small. I have seen a similar set up with an air hammer on top, but this thing is very quiet- not like my air hammer for sure

Bummer dude, the place where I go does not turn their material that way. They are more in the business of new steel sales and there are things that have been laying around for 10 years

Jumbo forge - tiny pictures, I hope you have a few 100 lb tanks to feed that thing

Its off Honey Run, there was a burned up motel right there but that was in 1997

I would remove it from that stand if it were my anvil and build a tripod, the sit much better on most surfaces- four legs will rock back and forth if you do not shim them

Its funny Mr Postman asks the same question in Anvils in America "One of Peter Wrights sons?" It is a pretty rare anvil he only recorded 11 of them as of 1995. He goes on to say that he believes they were made from the late 1880's to about 1914. The weight was marked in actual pounds not stone weight in most cases. I know Brian Brazeal has one it is the only one I have ever seen, his anvil is in real good condition

I lived on Friendly Way in Paradise- not so friendly bunch lived there also, bum fights in the street a couple of times a week

Good job- looks like Paridise not Chico. I was up there for a year when I went to Butte College for pipe welding

I will stick with one of these as long as I need one. EA Chase has made ove 10,000 of these

I "Had" to stop by the scrap yard today on the way home and picked up a chunk measures 9 inches long by 4 1/4 wide by 3 1/4 thick 37 lbs. Now I need to get to the water jet guy can not seem to attach picture error 500? How far from the end did you put the hardy hole?

Good point Rob- I appreciate the critique, it is easy to get tunnel vision for me and there is still time to make changes. I got the basic frame done today but I am still tossing ideas around on the final assembly. I am not in a big hurry to get this done, I would rather take my time and make a good presentation. I think keeping it simple is better, I was tossing around ideas on the frame to put some different techniques of joinery or finals, but I think that may distract potential clients from the main theme. So I am thinking just a simple frame, that I can take to their location and show them how this would look in their setting. pictures to follow

http://www.harborfreight.com/router-speed-control-43060.html This is a lot cheaper and it works, rated to 15 amps Or you can make an air gate real easy- just a piece of plate sandwiched in your air input line- nothing fancy

The stem is 3/8 inch so 3/4 would be 2 x the thickness. I am thinking of doing Habermann style corners with rivets, maybe run the sides up past the top and forge a final of some sort, just to show some different options- something other than just a square box frame. I need to sit down and do a sketch and toss around what looks good first. I may do a different joint at each intersection. Also I will be running all the stock through the hammer to get rid of the factory look so I can re-size it is another option.

I use a router speed controller from harbor freight it works just fine, going on 10 years now

Ya $$$ is good- I told her it would be $200.00 delivered, have not heard back- hmmmm I got the other branch assembled yesterday, now I just need to come up with a design for the frame using material that I have in the rack. I want to do something that shows some traditional joinery. I have some 3/4 inch square stock that I may use. The size of the frame is 42 inches tall by 32 inches wide= 148 inches that would be 23.5 lbs, I do not want to make it too heavy. I was thinking that some 1 1/2 x 1/4 bar stock would be nice, but I do not have any on hand.

You could tell them you want it for a mooring for your "house boat" or "raft" And it helps to know your scrappers I have been going to the same place for around 12 years now so I do get a little "discount" (sometimes)

I think I hear the strum of banjos in the back ground. That is some good ol oakie engineering there Grant, that does work pretty darn good. I have heard that old engine blocks work good for fabricating machines- you get a machined core with bolt patterns on different planes- a good place to start

That "power hammer" in the Granfors video reminds me of the stamp mills used in hard rock mining- just fitted with dies pretty cool. And there is your answer he shows you how its done and like Jake said- buy one from them you can't go wrong with that.

Thanks Rob And yes Fe- they are totally random just like in nature, I got one branch assembled yesterday (had to do some running around so it was a short day) My girlfriend posted a picture on her face book and one of her friends wanted to buy it now so that is a good sign. I have enough elements made up to make one more like this then I will build a frame to fit for the sample display

Looks like the bottom part of a power hammer for sure, maybe a bradley they had a pass through in the frame like that

I forged some more of these yesterday, I am trying different things along the way to find out what works best. I am forging a rough shape, then I go to the spring swage to shape the bulb, I tried shaping the point first then the bulb and this seems to work better. Once I get the bulb end complete I cut it off then draw a tapper on the end that will be the flat leaf part. I spread this out sideways with a 5/8 inch fuller, then use the fullering die on the power hammer to draw this out. I want to make a set of drawing dies like Tom Clark sold with his hammers it is very aggressive and i think it would work good for this type of forging. I finish off with the texture die and apply some oil at black heat I am going to weld these to the main stem and make a frame for the sample panel

Yes it is amazing beth, I have been finding this stuff on the beach and thinking how cool it would be to forge. Now I am finally getting around do doing it and I am making some progress. Fosterob- I did try using 1 inch material and it was way too much to work with. I think the groove is a great idea, leave a little stem to attach to the main branch. I did get to try out the texture swage and it works pretty good, I am going to try to soften the edges a little more and with some practice I think it will do the job. I forged these by starting at the bottom near the bulb and giving it a few whacks then move up and forge again trying to line up with the previous lines.