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  2. Hi all, hoping for some advice/ feedback. I'm in the process of making a hardy guillotine and have come across a couple of issues that more knowedgeable people might help with, my original intent was to make it to suit tooling made from old spring leaf, but the steel is an odd size, ie 80 mm wide and 14.5 mm thick, or most likely 17/ 32", which means when I run out of spring leaf, any new tooling will involve making blanks to fit, and generally discouraging making a quick die for a job, 2 questions come from that, 1 , is harder steel necessary for general guillotine tasks? Especially if the actual tool face is an add on of higher grade particularly for cutting type tools. And 2, is it just simpler to make the guides suitable for readily available stock, and, if need be add a hard face at the working edge? I hope my intent is clear in the questions, and appreciate any advice, thx.
  3. Today
  4. Sounds like fun for sure, but I don't think the safety police would like that idea!!
  5. Yes, I know. I was just adding to the topic, after thinking how the bolts on my bader grinder were setup. It was a good suggestion to make sure the nuts don't come loose. And congrats on building your own grinder. I have always bought commercial , because building my own looked difficult. Although, I do modify them from time to time. For instance, I built an extension arm with an idler so I can also run 2 x 132 belts on my 2 x 72.
  6. Not much different than my setup. Side blast jabod RR track anvil but I don't have a shelter. That shop would be a step up. Pnut (Mike)
  7. Or for the brave, heat up most of the spring , drop it onto a secured mandrel,, and use an electric winch until it is almost unraveled. I have never tried this, but it sounds like fun, and perhaps a bit dangerous I would not want to be standing anywhere near the winch.
  8. As a suggestion, search your favorite marketplace for a "squirrel cage blower" , maybe you can find a nice baldor. I found a few from a local surplus store, for 10$ each, a while ago. They said they were from an old mainframe. I had to add wire with a 110v plug, but that was easy enough. They are quiet compared to a hair dryer!
  9. 6 x 22 = 66 Did you leave your shoes on again Dan? Frosty The Lucky.
  10. No, I wasn't suggesting left hand threaded bolts, just lock them. I used fiber lock nuts or double nut them anyway, Locktite should do the job as well, especially if it runs smoothly. I went to the work and money of wiring up controls to use a treadmill motor and metal dust shorted it out before I had it in the grinder. <sigh> It's running underpowered on my old Rockwell 2" x 48" belt grinder motor and I have a 1.2 HP to replace it. I'm going to make a filtered cooling air supply for this one though. I'm not a bladesmith guy but I LOVE my 2" x 72" belt grinder. A good thing about having built my own is I can modify things without worrying about messing it up. Frosty The Lucky.
  11. If the propane supplier won't swap out of cert tanks FREE find another propane supplier, I haven't run across one that wouldn't. On the other hand Blue rhino charges enough more it doesn't hurt them, they can't fill an out of cert tank. Why pay extra for a replacement tank? Frosty The Lucky.
  12. Vulcans were made by Illinois Iron and Bolt, starting in the 1870s, and running for about 100 years. The reason they were quiet, and you shouldn't mess with the face is that they have a cast iron body with a thin steel face. Makes for a quiet anvil that's fairly cheap to produce. Fisher did the same thing and so did Southern Crescent. Fishers are great, Southern Crescents are lousy, and Vulcans...are hit and miss. The good ones are great, the ones made at four o'clock on Friday, not so much. The face looks good what you can see of it. If it's clean, and the rebound is decent, maybe three or four bucks a lb in the eastern United States. Out where I'm at in Washington now, maybe a buck or so more. Anvils are like hens teeth out here. (and all but my little 75 lb Columbian are in Georgia, dang it). And also, looking at your name, I'd also caveat that with don't use it as a welding surface, you'll make soft spots on the face.
  13. Okay, BJ. Thank you, BEJ431 was just too license plateish or partial phone #esque for my TBI scrambled filing system to come up with a working mnemonic. I've known plenty of BJs though not currently. Perfect! Frosty The Lucky.
  14. Just fired up the new Blackstone propane griddle for the first time after seasoning it and made cheeseburgers for Deb and I. It's our Mother's/Father's day RV gift to each other this year. Pretty good burgers. You? Frosty The Lucky.
  15. Yes very quiet anvils. Known as the “city anvil” which means no loud ring or noise while forging. And still a great anvil. I have a Trenton with great ring and rebound. And almost all my projects involve me using both. To back up Irondragon. Do not clean it up. Just use it. Nothing but a wire wheel at most.
  16. BJ, the link Glenn posted is the one I was thinking of. Pnut(Mike)
  17. Adding your location as a state name is usually generic enough to avoid paranoia. If not then a region of the country is good. Play with the fire until you find the sweet spot, then raise the fire so the sweet spot matched the top of the forge table. Easy to lay the stock on the table top and hit the sweet spot that way. Use bricks to then raise the sides of the fire for the depth of fuel and fire you need. Extra fuel over the fire ball is there to both insulate the fire and to have replacement fuel for the fire. Fuel does not make the fire hot, air makes the fire hot. Use only as much air as is needed to get the heat you want from the fire. Separate the air supply pipe from the blower by several inches. Air control is now simple, if you need more air, aim the blast more directly toward the air pipe. If you need less air, aim the blast less directly toward the air pipe.
  18. Dear Twogun, If you live in an urban or suburban area you may find it difficult to find a bulk propane supplier. About all you may be able to find locally are exchange places for 20 pound BBQ tanks which tend to be pretty expensive when compared to having your own tank filled at a bulk supplier. The exchange places often charge twice to triple the cost per unit of fuel. If you are in an urban area you may have to travel to an outlying location to find a bulk supplier. It is in rural areas where there is not a natural gas supply that people use bulk propane. As Mikey pointed out there may be local regulations regarding storage and use of flammable gases. Usually these don't kick in until you have a significant quantity on hand. A couple 20# BBQ tanks are unlikely to trigger problems but you should check with your local building department and fire code enforcement office (often the fire department but sometimes a different office). My experience has been that 20# tanks are on the small side to run a forge. They freeze up and the temperature of the propane drops below it's vapor point. You can either have 2 or 3 tanks and switch them out when the first starts to lose pressure or set the tank in a tub of water to act as a heat sink or use something to keep the tank warm. (I was once in a North Dakota January where we had to wrap the 40# propane tanks with electrical heat tape and fiberglass insulation to keep our heater running when it got to -25 degrees F or so out). Also, I second Mikey's caution about checking to make sure that having compressed flammable gas on hand does not void your home owner's or renter's insurance or violate your lease or rental agreement of condo or home owners association or subdivision covenants. There are a lot of land mines out there and it is good to learn where they are. Most of us have stepped on one or more of them some time in the past and are sadder and wiser for the experience. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand."
  19. Really hope to make it Jim. You demoing? Liked your hammer demo at last years PAABA meet.
  20. BEJ431 Have you looked at A collection of blacksmithing links on YouTube
  21. Drill a hole in a piece of wood to correspond to the hole in the metal. Glue the metal over the hole and call it a pencil holder.
  22. I would recommend A collection of blacksmithing links on YouTube and JLP videos to get you started. There is a thread on the site about forging from a wheelchair and other restrictions.
  23. I like your idea cedar Crest! I do get the kids out in the smithy with me quite a bit. Maybe I'll let her be the striker to flatten it out too.
  24. Hi. Using the technique I mentioned earlier, I was able to successfully weld a broken cast iron C-clamp. I used a small oxy propane torch and cast iron welding flux. The weld had no porosity. Oxy propane has a porosity problem with steel welding due to the heat being in the wrong part of the flame. But, there was a problem. EBay had 3/8" cast iron welding rod, but I was afraid it was too thick. That turned out to be correct. I found a cracked piece of cast iron pipe and hacksaw a 3/8 x1/4" rod from it. I couldn't get enough heat, so I ended up cutting it in half lengthwise and welding the two pieces together. This took a long time, but it worked great. I found out that piston rings aren't cheap! Hopefully I'll find some at a garage sale.
  25. BTW... Vulcan and Arm & Hammer are two different anvil's, your mom's is a Vulcan the number 10 indicates the weight 100 pounds more or less. I have a #10 which weighs 110 pounds and I love it, very quiet anvils. Hope you have read about not doing any grinding, milling or welding on the hardened face, which is quite thin on Vulcan's.
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