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I Forge Iron


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    New Jersey

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  1. Hi All, Looking to expand from making fireplace tools by now venturing into mantles and getting into screens/doors. Not sure now is the best time since winter is almost over, but then again, maybe people rather do the work while the weather is warm and they don’t have a fore going. Anyways, where do you all get your screen material from? Where I looked online, it seemed quieter expensive. Wasn’t sure if even regular door/window screen would work? Thanks
  2. Do you blast before painting? I've been making a bunch of fire pokers and have been painting them with rustoleum hammered spray paint. Knock off the loose scale quickly with a wire brush, then applied directly over. Been very durable and looks great, but I'm not sure it would be good enough for an outdoor railing.
  3. I appreciate all the replies! Will definitely look into everything recommended! Thats some nice work! How did you finish all those railing? Blast and powder coat? And when you say you find the salary higher with less effort, are you referring to doing furniture/flower supports compared to fences and gates. Or were you referring to architectural smithing as a whole compared to the little nick knack stuff. Thanks!
  4. I was curious how those of you that do larger ornamental work, like railings, tables or fences, got your first commission? I assume as you progress and build a portfolio of previous projects, customers are more inclined to commission you. I would love to slowly venture into doing some larger projects like railings or tables, but am trying to figure the best way to get my feet wet in the process. I currently hammer full time, but only do smaller items that are bought and shipped online. The largest ornamental type pieces I have done are fireplace sets. Any advice? Thanks!
  5. Anyone ever figure a way to rig up letter/number stamps on a hydraulic press? Currently I personalize items with the steel at a red color, but I believe I can be way more efficient if I can do it while the metal is cold. However, when cold, the stamps aren’t hammered in as easily. I have a coal iron 12 ton press, and I am trying to figure a way if maybe I can rig up a quick change stamp setup to allow for efficient stamping. The only issue is trying to come up with a stop type of fixture, as if you aren’t careful, you can push the stamp halfway through the material and ruin the piece. Any reco
  6. Hi, Just a quick question regarding ceramic blanket/board fibers. Everyone seems to emphasize sealing their forges to prevent loose fibers from drifting in the shop. However, when I look at forges such as Diamondback, it seems as if they just use raw ceramic blanket with nothing over it. I’ve also been told by another smith who I highly respect that there is no need to seal the fibers, as unless you poke or scrape at the blanket, fibers won’t come loose. Seeing his forge operate, I understand this point. Also, MSDS for Inswool/Kaowool never really states a carcinogenic hazard either, li
  7. Interesting. That’s another good point. I forgot there is the naturally aspirated (narb) ribbon burner, as well as the blown version (barb). I was referring to the blown version, but I wonder how the narb vs blown version compare to each other. My current forge is so efficient, I didn’t think I would be able to find something even more efficient. Before spending a few hundred on a blow assembly, I wanted to make sure I would see a notable difference
  8. The hype today seems to be about the ribbon burner. People claim to have run these at 1/2 psi of propane for a small forge, and essential craftsman on YouTube says he runs his gigantic gas forge at 5 psi for regular forging. Compared to a Venturi burner, however, how relevant is this info? I have a Venturi style burner made by someone named Steve Geisheimer, and it’s awesome! Very efficient, I run my Freon tank forge at around 3 psi for production forging. I’m looking at building a slightly larger forge, and am considering the ribbon burner if it will save me fuel and be more efficient at
  9. I might as well create a sticky with all the finishes I have tried in the last year or so! My recent kick has now been hammered paint for my production pokers, as it is looks decent and requires minimal prep. Keep in mind that I am making close to 20 pokers a day, and spending the time to completely wire wheel all forge scale, then individually heat each poker to apply a wax or oil is not very feasible. The one thing I am not 100% satisfied with is how the Rustoleum hammered paint is very glossy. The conventional black hammered paint from them looks good, but like I said, too shiny. The matte
  10. I’m glad I asked, everyone has some real good ideas! I experimented with the hammered paint today, and I like it. It won’t replace a nice clean wax finish, but for my large production items like pokers, the paint will work great. Plus I can put that stuff right over the scale. I painted a poker, and did a nice abuse test bringing the poker tip to a yellow heat in my forge. The paint burned up on the working end of course, further down wasn’t terribly effected and wore in nicely with the shaft of the poker. Plus I can offer different colors if desired too, and this should last better to rust if
  11. Great call with the paint fellas! When I research Hammertone, two options come up. Either Hammerlite or Rustoleum Hammered Paint. Are both similar? And how would they wear to the heat of a fire at the tip? Thanks
  12. Hi, I have been experimenting a lot lately, and am trying to find a clean and efficient finish for my fire place sets. Wire wheeling takes a while and is dangerous, sandblaster takes a while and doesn’t look nice, tumbler worked great but now doesn’t function. I’m just interested to know what most other professional smiths do to clean up their work before applying linseed oil or other finishes. Thanks!
  13. Thanks for all the replies everyone! Wrapped the tumbler in an old yoga mat today, reducing noise and adding more traction! I will now not be up until 10 cleaning and packaging pokers! Or maybe I will be, but will be getting more done!
  14. Awesome news! I threw in a bunch of nails and scrap metal, and tumbled a dozen pokers and half a dozen matching hooks today. They were in for about an hour and a half, and came out looking really nice! They weren’t the scaleless shiny look I normally get with the wire wheel, but it’s a real clean stonewashed looking finish which I really dig. I wiped each one down with a rag soaked in linseed oil, and I’m gonna stick with this method over the sandblaster. I put the tumbler in the shed, and that helped dampen some noise. I’m also gonna pickup some bedliner at harbor freight, and some felt or ca
  15. Hello Again, So as some of you know, I recently built a tumbler which works pretty well, unfortunately it’s very loud. I’m considering ways to dampen the noise, but until then, I’m considering picking up a sandblaster since suburban NJ isn’t craving the current setup! I am finishing mostly 24” Fire pokers, with matching hooks to go with them. I understand that sandblasting often gives a duller finish with the standard aluminum oxide media, and I would like something a little more polished then that. Anyone use that black diamond coal slag or steel shot? I’m curious how well they can cle
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