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I Forge Iron

MRB

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  1. Hi, Just a quick question regarding ceramic blanket/board fibers. Everyone seems to emphasize sealing their forges to prevent loose fibers from drifting in the shop. However, when I look at forges such as Diamondback, it seems as if they just use raw ceramic blanket with nothing over it. I’ve also been told by another smith who I highly respect that there is no need to seal the fibers, as unless you poke or scrape at the blanket, fibers won’t come loose. Seeing his forge operate, I understand this point. Also, MSDS for Inswool/Kaowool never really states a carcinogenic hazard either, li
  2. Interesting. That’s another good point. I forgot there is the naturally aspirated (narb) ribbon burner, as well as the blown version (barb). I was referring to the blown version, but I wonder how the narb vs blown version compare to each other. My current forge is so efficient, I didn’t think I would be able to find something even more efficient. Before spending a few hundred on a blow assembly, I wanted to make sure I would see a notable difference
  3. The hype today seems to be about the ribbon burner. People claim to have run these at 1/2 psi of propane for a small forge, and essential craftsman on YouTube says he runs his gigantic gas forge at 5 psi for regular forging. Compared to a Venturi burner, however, how relevant is this info? I have a Venturi style burner made by someone named Steve Geisheimer, and it’s awesome! Very efficient, I run my Freon tank forge at around 3 psi for production forging. I’m looking at building a slightly larger forge, and am considering the ribbon burner if it will save me fuel and be more efficient at
  4. I might as well create a sticky with all the finishes I have tried in the last year or so! My recent kick has now been hammered paint for my production pokers, as it is looks decent and requires minimal prep. Keep in mind that I am making close to 20 pokers a day, and spending the time to completely wire wheel all forge scale, then individually heat each poker to apply a wax or oil is not very feasible. The one thing I am not 100% satisfied with is how the Rustoleum hammered paint is very glossy. The conventional black hammered paint from them looks good, but like I said, too shiny. The matte
  5. I’m glad I asked, everyone has some real good ideas! I experimented with the hammered paint today, and I like it. It won’t replace a nice clean wax finish, but for my large production items like pokers, the paint will work great. Plus I can put that stuff right over the scale. I painted a poker, and did a nice abuse test bringing the poker tip to a yellow heat in my forge. The paint burned up on the working end of course, further down wasn’t terribly effected and wore in nicely with the shaft of the poker. Plus I can offer different colors if desired too, and this should last better to rust if
  6. Great call with the paint fellas! When I research Hammertone, two options come up. Either Hammerlite or Rustoleum Hammered Paint. Are both similar? And how would they wear to the heat of a fire at the tip? Thanks
  7. Hi, I have been experimenting a lot lately, and am trying to find a clean and efficient finish for my fire place sets. Wire wheeling takes a while and is dangerous, sandblaster takes a while and doesn’t look nice, tumbler worked great but now doesn’t function. I’m just interested to know what most other professional smiths do to clean up their work before applying linseed oil or other finishes. Thanks!
  8. Thanks for all the replies everyone! Wrapped the tumbler in an old yoga mat today, reducing noise and adding more traction! I will now not be up until 10 cleaning and packaging pokers! Or maybe I will be, but will be getting more done!
  9. Awesome news! I threw in a bunch of nails and scrap metal, and tumbled a dozen pokers and half a dozen matching hooks today. They were in for about an hour and a half, and came out looking really nice! They weren’t the scaleless shiny look I normally get with the wire wheel, but it’s a real clean stonewashed looking finish which I really dig. I wiped each one down with a rag soaked in linseed oil, and I’m gonna stick with this method over the sandblaster. I put the tumbler in the shed, and that helped dampen some noise. I’m also gonna pickup some bedliner at harbor freight, and some felt or ca
  10. Hello Again, So as some of you know, I recently built a tumbler which works pretty well, unfortunately it’s very loud. I’m considering ways to dampen the noise, but until then, I’m considering picking up a sandblaster since suburban NJ isn’t craving the current setup! I am finishing mostly 24” Fire pokers, with matching hooks to go with them. I understand that sandblasting often gives a duller finish with the standard aluminum oxide media, and I would like something a little more polished then that. Anyone use that black diamond coal slag or steel shot? I’m curious how well they can cle
  11. Thanks for the replies. I’m located in NJ. That makes sense about burning the scale off, and I assume that the hammering helps shock some of it too. I’ve also seen guys use a torch to pop some of the scale off too. Next time I go to the yard I’m going to ask about cold roll instead of the hot rolled stuff, will probably save me a ton of time even if it costs slightly more.
  12. Well, after tumbling for about 2 hours, my pokers came out fairly clean. It seems that the portions that were hammered, like the poker tip, had no scale left on them, but the shafts that remained untouched still had mill scale on them. I’ll have to figure a better media alternative to sand and pea gravel. The pea gravel I think is too smooth and rounded to be aggressive, and the sand gives a dull look. I’m going to cut up some scrap 3/8 bar I got into small chunks, and maybe that will be more aggressive in scale removal. Any other recommendations?
  13. Got er running today! The casters did the trick. I gotta spin it by hand first to get it started, but then the momentum rolls it on its own. Added three pieces of angle like you said running down the barrel, and got a small load in now to see how the gravel/sand cleans the pieces. Only complaint is that it’s very loud, like I assumed it would be! Does the bed liner in yours make it quiet? I plan on only running this during the day, mon-fri, so it shouldn’t be a huge issue with the neighbors. But having a little bit of noise reduction would be nice! Thanks IMG_3915.MOV
  14. Thanks for the replies! As far as adding linseed oil to finish... how would that work? I feel as if the point of tumbling to strip and clean the metal would result in being counter active when trying to add a coating to finish it. If that works, it sure would save a ton of time! And frosty, for the lifting lugs, do they span the entire width of the barrel? And I like your idea with the hinged motor frame, but unfortunately at this time I don’t have the time to make one. I’m going to pick up some casters tomorrow to modify this setup, and hopefully it will get me through the holiday orders
  15. And how about baffles... are they required to get an effective finish even with long items like pokers?
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