bubba682

I take it that is inverter tech i'd buy that it handles 1/8 7018 no prob how long it will last who cares when i compare it to the price of my lincoln 200 square wave which blew a diode on the board after after some medium use tig'n alum and stainless.I just bought a mini diesel heater for under 200 cdn so i might get one of these for fun but i got to say it works ok in the vid i'd leave it on 220 unless i had no choice.

Any time i got a regulator failure i get new ones i ain't qualified to fix'em and i wouldn't attempt it thats why we have repair techs who are certified.Those flashback /arresters arn't cheap but they'll stop a catastrophe i like brand name not the i got them cheap off the interweb brand when it comes to torche gear..

I run a 8'' gap with a 10'' stroke piston if that helps it works good for me.

Mine are pretty quick and simple i use 1/2''plate for my die bases all are 6''x6'' then i welded 1/4''x1''x1'' angle iron around the outside of base so the base slides in and out then i welded a bolt and tab below the base.So the tab slides under the bottom of base to take it out then it automatically swings up because its longer on the bottom of the tab so gravity does its thing and the new base is secured in seconds.Been usin that set up for roughly four years on 19 ton press and no issues its not a complicated setup and its quick to change dies..I cut a 1/4'' off the angle for a tighter fit when the die base plate slides in hope that helps...

So if im lookin at it right your cyl will be pushin down on the dies my pushes up but that don't mean anything its more about preference your frame is well built the welds i see look good from the pics so as long as they are clean and the fusion and penetration are good there good .I went with 2''x4'' flat dies and 1''x4'' fullers to take advantage of the force multiplier adv go with the size you feel give the best squeeze for your tonnage. I also put wheels on my base to move mine around the shop if i had my time over i would of mounted it to a fixed base and made it smaller presses don't have to be huge.Put some kind of shield,wraps or both on your hoses to protect them from hot steel reminds me as i got to finish my foot control set up its only been two years since i forgot to finish it lol.The one thing i find in common when guys get into this its tonnage is the concern you have more than enough to do what you want to do. Speed i think is more important cause its your dies that do the work the hotter the steel stays hot the easier the dies move it and less tonnage is needed which saves guys money especially as a hobbyist.Probally alot of guys won't agree with my last sentence but once your set up and running awhile let me know you think between speed and tonnage .Now a pro shop might disagree but im just a hobbyist thats what mine was built for anyway let me know what you think....

I am no hydraulics expert when i built mine i went to a pro shop for a system that i installed but mine will hold the piece im working on say for twisting damascus if that helps.My system is basically a log splitter set up in an h frame but its works pretty slick and most of my dies are made out of low carbon steel cause of price .I don't know what the price of hose and fittings are down in the states but it wasn't cheap up here lol.My press has been squishing for four or five years now when i built it i was worried about galling on the risers because of piston not being perfectly centered.So far so good i used a level a square and measuring tape and a bit of gun tape so what im saying is you can have some play in the movement for an h frame.Are you going h frame or are you using 2 pieces of angle with the die base running between them till it hits the stop,i'm not familiar with Bateston? book or press i used Randys book.

MG thats pretty hevi plate as long as your weld are properly laid in that will hold the world up what are you using 7018 stick. My press in comparison is a h frame design i used 4''x4'' 1/4'' steel with 1'' press base, 1/2'' die plates,lots of gussets,16gpm pump,5hp motor ,5 gal res, 5''piston with a 10'' stroke . I'm in around 18/19 ton i make everything from bowls to Damascus.I my opinion they work best if you gettin 4 seconds and inch on speed for travel till ya start your main squeeze so you don't loose your heat.To me that speed means more than tonnage and it will save you money on material not that your goin to change up now cause ya got all your material.I'm just saying you don't need monster tonnage to move hot steel they are fun to make and work great either as a hobby or professionally.Have fun building it and keep posting pics....

Rt on i got a victor multi torch set up i want to use with propane i'll have to check with the supplier to see if he can get me one rose buds make life easier ..

Is the rose bud a regular acetylene nozzle or is it for propane .

Thxs Irondragon i wasn't sure on english stone weight and it wasn't the weight i was intrested in it was what the 210 meant in weight maybe i didn't word my ques right initially.To me in my limited experiance with PW anvils its a PW because of where the word patent is on the body what do you think is it a Peter Wright or am i wrong.

The # is reversed in photo but its 210 the word is patent so whats the verdict Peter wright or something else.

I break the wifes scale i'm dead lol i'll get some pics up shortly.

Did a search can't match # to check age and weight i was just given this anvil it says patent on body but the name is rubbed out and 210 is punched into base the same as my 120 pound PW.Has anyone have an idea on age and weight i'm guessing over 200lbs on weight..

Nice knife ,shape and pattern i made a few that looked close to your design ,did you make the damascus yourself or buy a billet.

Looks good ..

Nice work Les L and clean floor by the way..

Im thinkin your right on not sneezin about one .

Looks good cleaned up did you get the round bending dies as well i'm thinkin the one i seen had them i could be wrong or it might even be a differant brand but it was on a stand and big.I'M trying to remember lol but once ya get it all figured out put up some pics of the differant bends and radius if ya don't mind.

pillow blocks for the bearings

Think i'll follow this thread as well i could of had one given to me for free but i turned it down because i thought it would take up to much room in my shop and i didn't have much info about how to operate it properly.In other words i was too lazy to figure out how to set it up and use it because i was working on other gear....It is still available as well.

I got to say i'm not a fan of frankinsteining hydraulics for presses unless ya got a good background in hydraulics,electrical and welding for safety,cost and performance concerns.That bein said if ya nail it there a great tool to have just don't go down the rabbit hole spending good money after bad.Speed of the ram is key imo when building a press...

I like this thread when i set up i bring out the gear i need after that i'm not responsible for where it ends up and how it ended up like that but the best thing i did was put wheels on my 4x4 table along with a post vice.

Go with the gas mix last year i tried pure co2 cause it was cheaper than the mix which it is but the time cleaning splatter along with the torch tip and cone was not worth it. I did alot of fabbing in a couple of months building trailors. I went thru 22lbs of wire which is a fair bit for me with the added cleaning time it made me go back to the mig mix gas cause its way cleaner and there is less splatter,.

If theres not much use on on it i would check out what they go for new around the area where your from and ask half as a start they are well sought after machines because you can tig with them as well as stick weld.

You can always get a miller thunderbolt acdc for tig and stick they are usually not a budget buster and are easy to run but they are 220 and you were lookin for 110 opps..