Marinegrunt

Yeah, I decided to go to down just as preference. I'm sure either way would've been fine but it just seemed like it would be more comfortable without the work piece moving. Then again, I'm just a hobbyist so probably doesn't matter. Haven't had a chance to do much work on it. I do have the last two angles tacked in place. Will probably do another dry fit and then weld it all out. I need to order the valve so still. I'm anxious to get some more done on it but have been busy.

I guess I'd be better off buying quality hoses from the get go. Plus, they'd feed perfect too. I did a dry fit before wracking a little off the slide. With the ram fully extended I have a 3⅝" gap. Figure I'll take 1⅜" off the slide and that will give me the 5" gap for 2" dies mounted on ½" plate like Candid mentioned earlier. Is there any reason I should do a 4.5" gap just so it can't fully extend if I don't have any work piece in it? Not sure I'd ever need to do that but figured I'd ask before I cut the slide. After that I'll be ready to tack the other angles in.

I added a larger pump to my log splitter which then needed a larger tank so I had to buy longer hoses. I swear the insides must be gold plated with the price tag. I'm hoping I can buy some pre made hoses from a farm store for the press but we'll see. That was a year or two ago so prices are probably even higher now. Not looking forward to seeing the bill if I need custom hoses. I'm using 3" x 5" x 3/4" angle. There are 4 pieces that will sandwich the slide, top, and bottom plates. I would post a picture of the cover of the book but not sure if I can here. I'll post a pic of mine dry fit together this weekend so you'll get an idea of the style.

All good points, Neil. I definitely respect the power and dangers of equipment. I am using 7018, Bubba. I have a 50 pound can of ⅛" but also picked up some 5/32. I should get some pretty good speed with the pump I'm using. What kind of bowls do you make? I'd like to see a picture of that. Sounds interesting. I'll keep posting pictures along the way. I still have to order the valve, filter, and then figure out hoses and fittings. Do I want a valve without the detent and one that springs back to center?

Yeah, my missing inch did make me look like a buffoon so maybe he was basing it off of that..lol. I do appreciate his concern. I definitely understand how dangerous a press can be. I've considered adding ½" thick triangle gussets down the inner part of each angle for added support. It's probably overkill, though. It's funny. I was laying in bed last night wondering how I could extend the ram without having the hydralics all hooked up. I was actually going to search for it but you read my mind. The cylinder is 5" with a 2" rod. 10" stroke I have a 7.5 hp 1760 rpm motor. Pump is 22 gpm. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Pumps/2-Stage-Log-Splitter-Pumps/22-GPM-Dynamic-2-Stage-Pump-GP-CBN-220-P-C-9-7970.axd I have a 20 gallon tank and also a 10 gallon. Both will fit but 10 gallon would fit better. From what I've read a 10 gallon should be fine since I basically have an 11 gpm pump. Was able to get the bottom plate cut to size after work. Just have to take 2" off the slide and then I'll dry fit it together. I have some more things on the honey do list so it'll be slow going the next few days.

The design is based off of James Baston's design but using ¾" angle instead of ½" angle and 1.25" plate instead of 1" plate. I was originally going to use a 12" tall bottom plate even though his calls for an 8". The only change I'm making is going down to the same size he has in his plans. His plans called for 8.5" between the slide and bottom plate for an 8" stroke cylinder. I was originally going to go with 10" without dies using a 10" stroke. The only change I've made is a larger gap between so I have a full 10" stroke with dies after some good advice above. Not confusuion just a small change to the plans to allow for more distance in between. Other's have built the exact same design so not sure it's a lightweight bomb. This one should be stronger than the design in the book with the materials used. How much so? I'm not sure but it won't be weaker. I don't mind being critiqued, though. If you see a weak point I'm all ears.

Plan is to remove 4" from the bottom. The other 2 angles aren't welded at all and just clamped. The other two are not completely welded out. So, 4" cut from the bottom, 2" from slide, then dry fit it together with cylinder, and attach some wooden dies. With 2" dies mounted to ½" plate that will give me a full 10" stroke. Does that sound more feasible as far as slide/die spacing? I appreciate the help.

Thanks Candidquality, That makes sense. I think I'll take the bottom plate down to 8" from 12" and take an inch off the slide. That will put the opening at 14" which sounds about right for 2" dies. The plans in Batson's book leave 8" of space for an 8" cylinder stroke so I was shooting for 10". The plans also call for 8" x 1" plate so it won't hurt anything taking 4" off the bottom plate. Plus, I'm using 1.25" plate and ¾" angle instead of ½" so will still be stronger than the plans in the book. Or, it would be easier to just take 4" off of the slide and make it 8" tall. I can always add height to my stand to get the working height of the dies higher so can adjust that before final assembly.

Actually, scratch removing the inch or two from the bottom plate. I was visually just removing an inch from the 10" and not where it's sandwiched between the angle. The slide wouldn't make it all the way down doing that. I'd have to cut the whole thing loose for the bottom. The slide is the only option unless I want to cut the top or bottom plate loose which I can do. I might just take an inch off the slide or cut the top piece loose and remove it from that. Thoughts?

I know you're not faulting the design, Frosty. You're giving great feedback which is why I started this thread and I greatly appreciate it. I'd rather make changes now rather than down the road after painting. I'm definitely open to all feedback and know it's nothing personal. Heck, I'm open to it even if it is. :-) I did just run into my first mistake. I planned on having 10" of space between the slide and bottom plate. The cylinder is 10". As of now the space between the plates is 9". I have a couple of options. Either leave it alone or take an inch off of either the slide plate or the bottom plate. The bottom plate would drop my die height by an inch. Keep in mind that both the slide and bottom plate are going to get two more 1.25" plates to sandwich the middle so will be plenty strong. Since the bottom plate doesn't have a hole in it for the cylinder it probably makes the most sense to cut that one. It is already welded in place which makes it a little more difficult but shouldn't be too bad with the angle grinder and Sawzall. Or, do I go ahead and take 2" off so I have 11" between. I figure a couple ½" die plates would make up the gap. (I shouldn't asked about this from the get go) Or, do I leave it alone at 9" which would be 8" max if I use ½" die plates? (Actually less because of the actual dies) I'm sure height will depend on what I plan on making but would like it to serve most purposes. For now it'll mainly be used for Damascus but just don't want to cut myself short for future use. I guess the question is, what's a good max distance between dies?

All are very good points. I kind of based part of the design off of a press made by a guy named Javos that was posted on another forum. His base has 4 corner posts so kind of like a small square table top. My thinking was with my design it would be easier to get closer to the center to change dies and to the work if need be. Maybe I could add corner posts if it becomes a trip hazard? I also have other equipment on wheeled bases so could position them to prevent it from being a hazard. I'm afraid if I move the press too far forward it will be a tipping hazard even with counter weight. I'm not sure if I'll have much room for counterweights. I'll also need the foot control to be set back from the press so the feet would give me something to mount it to. There's 20" between feet. The front feet stick out about 14" from the front edge of the vertical support. The back feet stick out about 16.5". Total length of feet are 40". Any thoughts on taking about 4" off the front of the feet? That could help some but not sure if that becomes a tipping hazard. I am going to add some large bolts upside down as levelers. It won't get moved often but wanted the option. Maybe if I have to pull a vehicle in the garage to work on it. We might move in a few years so one day the feet may come off and will be bolted down. A piece of plate might be better at that point instead of the c channel. As far as footwear I do have one pair of tennis shoes that have been worn once in 5 years. Steel toe boots for me. :-) This is exactly the kind of advice I was hoping for. Keep em coming. It always helps to have multiple people's opinions on projects. Thanks

Thanks for the welcome, Frosty. I'll try and throw some drawings together or atleast some scribbles. It's pretty much going to be like the red one on the front of James Batson's book just flipped upside down and mounted on a frame so the cylinder is on top. It'll be beefier because I was able to use ¾" angle and 1.25" flat bar. Once I get the other 2 pieces if angle sandwiched together it'll make more sense. I already have the stand built, Jim but it sounds like I might want to add another 10" to make the dies sit higher. It shouldn't take much effort to extend it to bring it up. Thanks for the suggestion. Here's a picture of the bottom. I still have to attach the other two pieces of angle to sandwich the big pieces of 1.25" flat bar. The while press is laying horizontal. Here's the stand. The motor will be mounted on bottom so still have to add some c channel or angle. The tank will be on top in the back. The motor will be under center or just a tad forward so should help balance out the weight of the tank. Both will be covered with some thinner gauge plate to protect them.

Please follow along! Thanks! They more people I have keeping an eye out the better. I'm not new to welding and projects but I'm far from a pro. I was a Boilermaker at one point so do know how to weld and do some fabrication. I have a pretty good idea of what I'm doing but always helps having others point things out that I'm not aware of. I'd love to see that power hammer you restored. I'm new to blacksmithing and knife making but definitely love any and all equipment. I started assembly yesterday. Didn't get too far into it but have the base and the upper and lower cross plates tacked in.

I'm in the process of building of a press so thought I'd start a thread to document it in case it can help others. I also have some questions to ask and sure I'll have more along the way. It's going to based off of James Baston Jr's angle iron press but I'm going to have the ram on top. I did purchase his book. It will be on a stand so I'm able to unbolt it and move it a little easier since we plan on moving in a few years. Plus, I didn't want to have to purchase a second stick of angle. I'm using 4x6x¾ angle and 12x1.25" flat bar sandwiched in between. A local machine shop went out of business and is selling off steel for $.70 a pound so that's what got me starting the project sooner than planned. The 12x1.25" bar is cold rolled which is nice. Each angle is now cut to 60". The bottom and top cross plates will be 12" tall as will the slide. The bottom will have an two additional 12"x1.25" plates sandwiching the middle. The slide will be sandwiched and bolted with two 8" tall x 1.25" thick plates. Same with the top. For the stand I have a couple pieces of 2x6x¼ c channel that will be the "feet" and have wheels. The support for the press will be dual 2x4x¼ c channel with a 1.25" gap between them. (Just because I have some laying around) I might put a ¼" plate across the top and sides just to cover the gap. That should put my dies at about 40". I'm 6' tall so does that sound about right? I'll then have to figure out tank and motor placement but plan on having some thin gauge plate to protect them. I'm hoping I can do the motor and pump below the tank in back (or vice versa) so I can get in between the feet a little in front to get me closer to the dies. That might change once I start building, though. I have a 5" x 10" ram, a 7.5 hp 1800 rpm motor, and a 22 gpm two stage pump. I purchased a 20 gallon tank but wish I would've went smaller now. Would a 10 gallon tank work okay? It will only be for hobby use so I don't see it being used for hours in end. I do have a question about the slide. The inside dimension of the press will be 10" wide. I have some 1"x2 wide bar stock that will be the guide rails. They will lay flat against the angle on each side with a piece of 8"x7-15/16"x1.25" welded to the 1x2 guide rail bars. Two of those will be bolted through the middle slide plate. How much clearance does the slide need or should I just dry fit it tight? Or, should I shim it a little when welding? I planned on leaving that 1/16" so each side will have 1/32 of clearance but not sure if that is too much. I haven't cut the 8x7-15/16 yet. Figured I'd better ask first. Will this valve work okay? It sounds like I don't need a detent so thinking this will work well. https://www.surpluscenter.com/Hydraulics/Hydraulic-Valves/Directional-Control-Valves/1-Spool-20-GPM-Prince-RD-2575-T4-ESA1-DA-Valve-9-6765.axdOne last question. Do I need a magnetic starter? I installed one on my 5hp compressor so assume I'll need one here. I've seen magnetic starters with manual push button on/off switches. Can it double as a power switch? If not, anyone have a source for a good power switch? I have a few cuts left on the 12x1.25 flat bar but I'm getting there. I've been using a 6" cutoff wheel so glad I'm almost done with that part! I appreciate any advice. Thanks