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Dave's demo trailer


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Here is a diagram of my demo trailer I am fabricating. The quench tub will be removeable most likely. The anvil and vice are situated where they can stay on the trailer and spectators will still be able to see me work. The trailer may be too tall for the anvil to stay on though! Just got to wait to see how tall my axle boosts it up. If there isn't any discription writings on the picture I post then look again later. Some times it takes a while for them to appear on the picture. Don't know why!:mad:
DSC01080.jpg
Yea, there are some labels on that picture. Give it till tomorrow (Wednesday) and they will show up.
There is a lay out idea Chris! I've spent the last 2-3 months thinking how it could be laid out and work well. I think it will. Some ideas anyway!

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I have not ever seen a demo trailer so I'm not sure what to look for.But,what type of trailer are you going use?I would think the wheels are going to be in the way of the forge even if you are useing a deck over the wheels arrangement.Or are you going to off set the axle more to the back?

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hum... i think trying to forge on the trailer is going to be a problem... even uf you use some type of trailer jacks on the 4 corners you are going to have to beef up the frame and floor substanceively . otherwise you will get too much flex and everytime you hit it will bounce! ide set it up where you have a side that raises as a angled roof /shade and put your anvil on the ground .... where are you going to display product? is this a one man setup or do you have help?if you have help you might have forge on one side and storefront on other ...wont work on a one man setup tho cause you cant watch things ...good luck!

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I'll be working solo.
We have a regular booth set-up to display products. Mom mans that!
I'm building the trailer completely from scratch so I can position the axel/forge so that they don't get in each others way. Positioning the axel farther to the rear will eliminate the need for jacks. (except on the tongue of course) The anvil may not work on the trailer so I'm leaving that option open. However the frame is 2x4" channel so I don't think I'll have any bounce. Also I can position the axel farther to the rear for support to the anvil because I am getting a 1 ton rated axel. Good points though that I haven't though of, and they will keep me cautious while I am building it so I don't weld something where it shouldn't go!:o
Thanks and keep em coming!

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The one thing I always thought about with a 'demo trailer' is that it would put you too high above the crowd. Working at ground level the spectators can see better, they are on the same level as you, put it a foot higher and they can't see. Myself, I would think loading it ON the trailer, and OFF when you get to your destination would give you the ability to adapt to your environment, and you can stack things on the trailer so they would be less apt to blow out, or be exposed to the elements. Just my thoughts....

One thing my Dad told me about axle placement on a trailer. The distance from the ball pivot to the centerline of the axle MUST be longer than the wheelbase of the towing vehicle to prevent fishtailing, and to make it easier to back up....makes sense to me.

Edited by unkle spike
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The frame should be fine.I think the worst bounce is going to come from the tires and springs.I think the best way to do it is to start building it and see how it all comes together.If you have to you can always move stuff around so it works.Just be carefull of getting the axle to far back,you always want some sitting on the tow vehicle but not all of it.

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Didn't even cross my mind that I would get bounce from the suspension! Perfectly right there!
Spike, The forge will be mounted directly on the trailer. I will stand on the ground! Therefore the set-up will be the same hight as a forge sitting on the ground; the only difference will be that it's on wheels!

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I'm trying to live in the 1800's here so we have to drop the jack idea. The wood might work but it's something extra I would have to worry about toteing around. I want to dump my bucket of tools in the tool box drop the pin into the tongue hitch a leave! (More or less!) I think I am probably going to make a stump stand, or something of the sort, and make it where the anvil is not attched. Then it will be relatively simple to set up the anvil. Also, if I did that I could move the forge to the back and not have to worry about catching my tires on fire from the heat of the fire pot.:o

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  • 3 weeks later...

UPDATE:
We have the plug for the welder...we just have to hook the plug up.
I pulled the bandsaw out yesterday and cut all the channel steel for the frame. Here are some pictures!
DSC01170.JPG
DSC01186.JPG
That is of course unwelded; just a rough layout.
The frame will weigh somewhere around 200#. I increased the frame width to 4 1/2 ft. (My cross sections were all 4 ft 7 inches so I figured "Why Not?")
I am going to get the five foot axel (3500# rating) and get it cut and rewleded to the exact size needed. I'm going to let the welding shop do the welding to make sure I get max penatration and strength!
I'm going to go out now and cut the fire pot hole in the forge pan sheet. (1/4 diamond plate.)
Thoughts?

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Dave:

Do I have this right? You're planning on setting the anvil on the ground to work rather than working in the trailer?

If so, I think it's probably your better choice as a trailer will never be as stable as you'd like. You can rig a rear or side panel on the trailer to hinge upwards for a working roof easily.

That is going to be one really stout trailer. Looking good.

Frosty

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you would be better off using a torsion spring axle and make a low rider out of it as the trailer proper will be closer to the ground . Also why not make the Anvil a Tip out so it sets on the ground and the forge and other equip could be mounted in one side with a fold up door on that side.

Dexter Axle - Trailer Axles and Running Gear Components - Torflex Axles

Torflex-Image.jpg

Edited by irnsrgn
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FieryFurnace say's - "I'm trying to live in the 1800's here so we have to drop the jack idea".



If you are doing that - you'll have to drop the whole trailer deal, tires and all. In all reallity you keep going and do it!!! Regardless of the time frame your triing to mimick just getting people to watch forge work is well worth the effort - and if anything "you" get to do the forging and have all the fun even if noone is around. :) - JK

Edited by jeremy k
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FieryFurnace say's - "I'm trying to live in the 1800's here so we have to drop the jack idea".



If you are doing that - you'll have to drop the whole trailer deal, tires and all. In all reallity you keep going and do it!!! Regardless of the time frame your triing to mimick just getting people to watch forge work is well worth the effort - and if anything "you" get to do the forging and have all the fun even if noone is around. :) - JK



I do know that the whole channel steel frame, axel, rubber tires, diamond plate for the forge, etc. is unauthentic!
However, a wooden frame with wooden wagon wheels would not take to the interstate very well. The channel steel frame will be covered with rough cut lumber painted olive green, the tires will be covered with burlap or canvas material, (and be under the trailer) eventually I want some steel/wooden wagon wheels to put on at the event. The diamond side of the forge plate will be on the bottom of the forge and therefore out of site. Basically the unauthentic specs will be covered! Otherwise I would have to build the wagon forge and then build a trailer to tow it on.
That's why I didn't want jacks in the four (or two nearest the anvil) corners! It would be difficult to cover up and it would be extra stuff to carry around.
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Picked up the axle yesterday! I went ahead and got a regular leaf spring axle as a guy in town here sells them real cheap! Also I don't need the trailer to sit lower because I would rather have the forge mounted directly on the frame. You see, if I was to lower the trailer I would have to raise the forge/blower to the right working height. I'm hoping that the axle I have is going to raise it up high enough so that I won't have to do that!
Now I have to cut a bunch of 1" angle for the coal/forge box. Brilliant me got the lids cut the same size as the box...i.e. the lids fit inside the boxes!:o anyway I am going to add angle to the edges of the lid so that the lid won't fall into the box and it will also waterproof the boxes. (I was fortunate enough to trip across some "scrap" [they are actually ten feet long] that was free from rust, straight, and $.25 a pound.)
I have a very little bit of some 1"+ by 1/8" that I'm going to try to make hinges out of. I've never done hinges before! Before I try, I'm going to make a little form to bend them around so they will fit the hinge pins!
If weather permits we are going to start welding Monday....and there will be PLENTY of pix!!!
Thoughts?
Dave Custer

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