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I Forge Iron

Forging VS Stock removal?


KYBOY

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For me: Forging is fun and fast, stock removal is slow and tedious. Of course every forged blade still requires stock removal anyway.

Also coal or even propane is a lot cheaper than 2x72" belts! And you have the ability to use a much more diverse range of steel sizes and shapes.

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Forging is fun and pretty fast, if your not including the time to start the coal fire (like those who use propane), but stock removal is easier and i believe its safer (for the metal). I do a bit of both, but usually forge my blades. Now a few are all stock removal, but thats because either I dont know how to do it with hammer and anvil, or its not as easy with hammer and anvil.

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I do agree with Thomas about the ER and stuff, but the metal is al that I meant would be safer. Meaning that with forging, you have to straighten the blade, worry about burnsing the metal, and some other stuff (I'm bad with getting distracted and the metal burning). Sorry if there was any confused thoughts or anything.

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i know that forging is fun,but in my opinion making a forged knife is much more difficult to make than do stock removal,if you want a real good high performance blade.controling the fire,do not overheating the steel,heattreatment(normalizeing,stress relieving)micro cracks mostly not seen by the bare eye,and so on.,todays steels are so good controled qualitythat i wont open them because all the bad things get in.,and if choosen the right steel(for example:110WCrV5,80WCrV8 or115W8)and normalizing them for 2 or 3 times they get carbides under 2 micron and outperforming the most forged blades.
with this steels i make a top quality in shorter time doing stockremoval.
a lot of people visiting me at knife shows,cant effort hundrets of euros,so a simple stock removal flat tang,without bolsters,only two slabs for the handle and a good, solid,handstiched leather sheath gives them a high performance tool for their small budget.
many styles of knives cant be done without forging,so it depends of what you want to make.and that tells what is the better way.
if i want fine cutlery stockremoval is my choice,but if i want period pieces for the kings of the wild frontier than i have to forge.
this is how it works for me and my knifes.

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What do you mean you don't know squat? You've learnt not to tackle an axle yet, build on what you have done, and you will get there, The ones that make no mistakes can't have ever done anythng

Aristotle said "What we have to do we learn by doing" he was not known for his smithing ability but it works for me

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  • 2 months later...
....if choosen the right steel(for example:110WCrV5,80WCrV8 or115W8)and normalizing them for 2 or 3 times they get carbides under 2 micron and outperforming the most forged blades.
with this steels i make a top quality in shorter time doing stockremoval..


I'm making my first knives with stock removal out of 1.2519 (=110WCrV5) could you tell me how this normalizing process (2 or 3 times) is done?
sincerly,:)
Stefan
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I started out making knives by stock removal, but taught myself to forge because grinding bores me to tears. These days the only time I make a blade totally by stock removal is if it would be too difficult to forge (getting more and more rare thankfully!)

Forging is quicker in some respects, but because I prefer to leave my blades forged finished, I have to get everything closer to finished than if I am grinding some of it away as well. Obviously any pattern welded blades I make are forged less closely and ground, but without a power hammer I don't do many of those. The main reason for forging for me is coz (as many have said) its fun!

I had a student in the workshop recently who wanted to learn how to make a blade by stock removal because he didn't expect ot have the set up for forging but wanted ot make knives at home. So for teh first time in nearly 5 years I made a blade completely by stock removal (I don't have a big flash grinder, only a cheap little linisher with a 500w motor and an angle grinder). It took me back! God it was boring.

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Maybe I just don't have a big enough grinder, but making an entire knife by grinding down a bar seems tedious and converts a lot of fine steel into filings.

I like to forge things mostly, starting with a 3 pound hammer for rough shaping, and 1 pound hammer to nearly exact shape. Then take it to the grinder or belt sander, if need be. But I prefer to do the final finish with a good sharp file, then sanding. There's something very gratifying about filing. You can see the work becoming exactly what you want it to be with each stroke.

To each their own, I s'pose :)

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My various mentors have preferred to forge a blade and finish the blades on the sander and then the buffer. As the result, that has become my preference. In my humble opinion, I agree with the people who have said that the forging process tends to be both faster and safer.

The less I do on machines, the safer I feel. On that note, I have recently upgraded my goggles to better ones, and added a full face shield to use with the goggles. This is the result of my first eye injury in over 35 years of hobby smithing. The metal sliver flew up under my goggles, and had to be ground out. My conclusion; hammer good, machine bad.

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