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I Forge Iron

matt993fod

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Everything posted by matt993fod

  1. That is a really awesome and unique idea! Very well done man!
  2. Hey there guys. Got a brand new 25kg Glendale pattern anvil for sale. Never been forged on. I am selling it as I have acquired a new brooks anvil, which I prefer. The anvil has a wide working face, 3/4 hardy socket and 3/8 pritchel hole. The working face is on the softer side at 50-55RC. This is the reason I prefer the brooks anvil, as their faces are on the hard side at 60-65RC. It is not an amazing anvil; the casting is not the prettiest and I don't get on with the softer face but on the plus side it is brand new and has nice sharp edges and corners, and the face is fresh and flat. I think it would make a great anvil for a portable workshop setup as it is small, and it is still really useable as the face is really wide for such a small anvil. Also could be quite good for a beginner, as you would be less likely to spall up a softer anvil, and also I am selling it on the cheap. New these anvils are 190 quid, but end up costing 260 when you factor in VAT and postage. I would like 100 pounds for it. I think that despite the downsides it has, this is a good deal considering it is new. I would prefer anyone who buys it to collect it in person, but it is small enough to post. Bear in mind that postage will cost between 30 and 50 pounds depending on where it is sent. If you are interested do sent me an email at mrc31@kent.ac.uk or call/text on 07733105528 (P.S. I apologize in advance if selling things on the forum is not allowed!)
  3. Thanks for the feedback guys. I got my hands on my 25kg anvil from Vaughans (it is actually a brooks anvil that they sell) and it is indeed really good. Really awesome ring and rebound. Noisy as hell, but I like the ringing. My neighbors don't. Fun happy times.
  4. So I bought a new 25kg anvil from Glendale to use in my portable workshop setup, but was really frustrated when I got my hands on it, because the xxxx thing is really soft! Dents when you even lightly tap the face, and has a really poor rebound. I asked them why this was, and they told me that the anvils they sell are made slightly softer, owing to health and safety regulations, which apparently state that anvils must be made soft nowadays so that bits won't break off of them when they are struck. (I should state that although I am unhappy with the anvil, Glendale themselves are great to deal with, and I am more than happy with their other products and their level of service) I am going to sell it or send it back, and I'm going to buy one from Vaughans instead. Apparently their anvils are still hardened to a degree that I consider acceptable. Before I shell out yet again, though, I want to ask if anyone has any experience with these anvils and anything they would like to chip in on the subject.
  5. Sounds cool. Many thanks for the info John. I will check with the organisers and see if I am covered by their insurance, and I will look up the info on distance from public etc. Wish me luck!
  6. I am looking to do my very first blacksmithing demonstration, in conjunction with a shopkeeper who has been selling my work for me for a while now. He also organises arts and crafts fairs, and has asked me to participate and do a blacksmithing demonstration at his next craft fair. Thing is, I have never done a demo before, and I was curious about the legal and health and safety concerns relating to it. Should I be worried about insurance? In what ways could I potentially get myself in trouble with this? How do I ensure that the guy helping me out is not in any legal risk either? I should point out that I am a UK resident, so it is UK law that I am concerned about.
  7. Thanks for the ideas guys. I think that I might use some sort of brick arrangement. I will make a permanent iron tuyere, but use a piece of refractory clay or fire brick with a hole bored through the middle as a capping piece which will take the brunt of the heat. That way, the main part will be permanent and fixed, but the part which will take most of the heat will be easy to replace. Sound any good?
  8. Sounds fine to me. How about using a mild steel pipe and coating it with the clay? That way only the clay needs replacing when it eventually cracks up. I would like the setup to look as professional as possible, as I will be taking it on demos at some point.
  9. That sounds possible. So insulating the tuyere is the way to go if I want it to last then? I would hate to pay for a tuyere off of someone like Glendale and end up burning it.
  10. Glendale forge arent that expensive compared to some others, but I would rather make it to save money. Your pipe idea sounds possible. Do I have to insulate the tuyere at all? If I go covering it with fire clay I will surely sacrifice the portability of my forge. What actually stops dry tue irons burning up in the heat, besides the cooling action of the air flowing through them (which I can't imagine cools it that much really anyway)?
  11. So I am constructing a really small portable forge for my student backyard smithy. Its basically an angle iron frame that holds four fire bricks, giving me a very small flat hearth. It sits on four legs, and its powered by a small electric forge blower that runs on a car battery. I need the forge to be lightweight, portable, and easy to disassemble. My design is good so far, as the bricks can lift out of the hearth, the blower will unbolt from its housing, the hearth lifts off of the legs, and whatever tuyere I use will be bolted to the frame, so will also come off easily. Because of the design, the tuyere must be side draft. I still need to construct a tue iron. I can easily make a water cooled one, but that would negate the portability of my design. A dry tuyere is most practical. Can anyone give me some suggestions as to a good reliable design for a dry tue iron that fits in with my design requirements?
  12. I don't much care about the fact that this guy is selling them, I just wanted to look at the eye candy. Wish I had a collection like that. :-(
  13. Lol well that just xxxxxx on my candle somewhat.
  14. Believe it or not, I'm pretty sure I've actually found the manufacturer of Vaughans anvils whilst browsing wholesaling websites. Its a company called Elcomp from South Africa. They have exactly the same marketing blurb and photos. Also the same weights! Random eh?! I know why you were put off by Glendale's website. I didnt like it either. Mind you, having spoken to them on the phone, I cannot rate them higher. They have given me excellent service, and have even helped me source a couple of bargains, since they also run a separate second-hand section. Awesome stuff!
  15. Check out this guy's youtube channel. He's got some gorgeous and rare anvils in absolutely beautiful condition. http://www.youtube.com/user/Ironsmyter How jealous are you after watching those?!?!
  16. I ended up buying a small 25kg Glendale pattern anvil from Glendale forge. It is a small table-less anvil that comes with an upsetting block on the base. Nice wide table. 3/4 inch hardy hole. Absolute beauty, and not badly priced at 190 quid brand new. Thats a full 40 quid cheaper than the same size from Vaughans.
  17. That Cottam anvil does look smart. How much did it cost you with delivery factored in?
  18. Its going to be my bench anvil, so for doing all my marking on. Also I'll use it for doing my small scale soft metal work. And it'll be useful as a jumping up block. Might do some very light forging on it. It is very important that I be able to move it around my workshop and house easily and with little effort, so 15-30kg is the weight range I want.
  19. I'm looking to treat myself to a new small anvil, something in the 15-30kg range, for use as a bench anvil. I'm a UK resident, and am already aware of the suppliers like Vaughans and Glendale forge. Their prices are a little steep for my budget. I am wondering if anyone knows of any alternative suppliers in the UK that arent quite as eye wateringly expensive. Second hand ideas are fair enough, it is difficult to find the smaller size I am after second hand. If anyone knows of a good second hander in these sizes suggestions are also welcome.
  20. Gorgeous. Perhaps you ought to consider a change of specialisation. That is more unique and artistic than a lot of stuff produced by bladesmiths of extensive experience. Well done.
  21. Love the seax. Your interpretation is exactly what I imagine when I think of one. I am doing medieval history at university, so its extra cool.
  22. Cool knife! So what is motorcycle chain generally made of? Does it harden up ok?
  23. Awesome little knife. Looks very practical; I always find, due to the nature of my work, smaller knives are handier than larger blades. This one looks particularly handy!
  24. Wow. Just when you thought RR spike knives had given all they could, someone always makes a more interesting one! Very nice work.
  25. Awesome work there. Blade and handle finish are outstanding. Be very proud of yourself on this one.
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