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I Forge Iron

It followed me home


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On 9/21/2020 at 2:38 PM, ThomasPowers said:

Poodles don't shed; which is why they have to be clipped. It is possible to get what is termed a "field clip"  so your standard poodle doesn't look ridiculous---they were originally bred as bird dogs!

The standard sized ones should also have webbed front feet as a breed trait. They were water retrieval and flushing dogs. The goofy haircut had an important job too. The puffs kept the chest, head, tail tip, kidneys and pulse points warm while the dog was in the water for extended periods of time.

I was always taught the difference between hair and fur was that fur shed yearly while hair needed to be cut or shorn. Our Dorper sheep are considered a "hair breed" yet they have fur that they shed each year, while the "wool breeds" have hair that need to be shorn. Just another way farmers make things more confusing.

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I really need to stop visiting the scrapyard as I probably have more stuff than I will live to use.  I guess the goal is for the forge fire to go out from lack of fuel just as you pull the last piece of steel out of it for it's last heat and complete the project as your body gives out....

Not going to happen; though it was amusing when two friends/students were smithing with me recently and I mentioned that a particular hammer was my first smithing hammer and my only one for several years--(It actually shows signs of wear on it's faces, not just polishing, but wear!).  Anyway they both were calling dibs on it when I had no longer a need for it... (Generally I tell them we have arranged for all my tools to be melted and poured into my grave on top of me---keeps them from trying to encourage my demise, though buying me lunch at a burger place in town may have been a subtle variation on this...)

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My wife used to Volunteer at the Columbus Public Library, (first HUGE Carnegie library IIRC); she worked in the store where they sold off donated and deaccessioned books and so got first crack and, I believe, a discount.  Books were cheap, I got to assemble and finish bookcases for them all. (No particle board!)  We found a manufacturer that rated their bookshelves for over 200 pounds per shelf and could be bought in kit form.

Over time we found that the local store that carried them would clear them out at the end of the winter season to make room for other stuff. So we would go and ask the manager how much to clear them out? (About 1/2 price!) Then we found out they would sell the "display pieces" already assembled and finished---though not to my level of finish. 

Only have 12? bookcases in our bedroom, my study, (smallest room in the house), has 7? The living room 10, the dining room 4, I lost count of the ones in the library. Back in Ohio I once lucked into 2 8' tall 8' wide bookcases, about 96' of new shelf space---didn't even take care of all the stacks on the floor....Yes we have too many books! 

Our Daughter says she will open up a used bookstore online when she inherits...

 

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This came today (by UPS, not by mail) from the industrial surplus place: a job lot of tooling. All the dividers and calipers (not the compass), the center-finders and the depth gauge (missing their rulers, alas), and the edge finder are all Starrett. 

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Does anyone have an idea what that folding thing in the lower right might be?

Also, I'm intrigued by the second die from the top, which is in some kind of cylindrical holder that the pin just behind it slides into; the latter has a sharp point in the center. Any thoughts?

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On 9/23/2020 at 1:15 AM, Neal the smith said:

I like the simplicity of it, Frosty. But I wouldn’t be able to secure it to the floor so would have real concerns with it tipping when I levered the block from horizontal to vertical, and back again. You’ve doubtless considered this - have you sufficient mass in the base to prevent tipping?

No, it's not tippy at all, even on edge. Changing from vertical to horizontal is about balance AND as you're levering it the forces counter balance each other. It's amazingly easy to select the edge you want. I just put the pinch bar on the side closest to the edge I want and lever it up, it turns before being so high as to lay over on the top. 

It's easier and safer to use the same process to select the edge you want facing you when laying flat. I'll often use a bottom swage in the block as it's much easier to support long pieces and a hold fast. That is in fact what I was doing when I snapped the pic. 

I tried turning it in the horizontal position one time by putting two of my taller bottom tools in square holes and using the pinch bar between them to lever it around. THAT made it tippy a little, I stopped long before it was a problem and have scrubbed it as a method.

No, the stand doesn't move and I've had a couple strikers working at once. No bounce, no scooting, nothing everything just sits where I want it. It's not easy to move in the shop but it's pretty happy where it is.

Frosty The Lucky.

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I hate setting the alarm unless I'm going fishing. I think today might be an exception. Scored me some cast iron. It's a #3 with 5 1/4" jaws, weighing in ~90 lbs. Works beautifully. The stake anvil I consider just a throw-in. Now I can go to my dental appt. with a big smile and come home with a big shiny smile.

Steve

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