pnut Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 7 hours ago, Daswulf said: Even a single incandescent light bulb can make a difference in a space like that I've heated a small shelter with a couple candles in the winter. It by no means got balmy inside but it raised the temperature quite noticeably from the outside temp. Enough so that I could take off my gloves and shed a layer or two. Pnut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 (edited) Das you had it right, Slag.. they are tube heaters.. this will be my first exposure to them as in installation. Commercial link removed. Frosty, all day.. Was brutal out.. I got a little work in the shop but gave up.. The tape was to cold to stick so called it. I am not envious of your temperatures. I am like Thomas's wife.. I like it warmer.. But with this said. I don't mind it being cold as long as it's not wet.. snow just adds a level of wetness that changes the ball game. The IR heaters don't heat the air, but the objects.. The objects give off warmth to the air.. Because of how the shop is layed out I decided not to go with the in floor radiant.. It would have added about 8K on the install of the tubes without anything else.. The tube heaters are actually pretty fuel efficient and since they heat the objects I'd rather pick up something warm then to have it cold.. The main door in the shop won't be opened much so don't see a breeze as a problem , only time will tell. Edited January 1, 2021 by Mod30 Commercial link removed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 chelonian, I have over the years studied some of the science and end up getting in trouble because much of what is seen on paper does not really add up in real world application once removed from the lab. When working metal there is a ratio of "force/pressure and friction within the metal" that allows for the metal to stay hot while being forged. Every degree of heat removal adds up and though we look at conduction percentages as being a figure real world experiences say.. To keep a bar that is being forge welded off the anvil because of rapid cooling. Or that never to lay an item that is normalizing or annealing in contact with a heat sync. (which is anything that draws temperature away from the item). My suggestion is to try it and see what you get.. Heat a 1/4" sq and see if you can forge a 1 nail with 1 heat on a cold anvil, then heat the anvil to say 80F and see if you can forge the 1 nail in 1 heat.. It will become clear quite quickly. One can do experiments to find the best combination but ideally the warmer the anvil is, the longer the work time. Problem is this residual heat can cause tempering of the face and such so we limit heat input into the anvil generally.. If you watch some of the videos where I am doing larger pieces I am constantly cooling off the anvil. 200-300F is how hot the anvil has gotten with surface temperatures in the 400 range.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chelonian Posted December 31, 2020 Author Share Posted December 31, 2020 That makes sense, thank you! I have noticed that the first little while of forging goes slower and seems less efficient, but I always thought that was me warming up, not the anvil (probably still a combination of the two). For instance if I'm making a bunch of the same item the first one in a day always takes me more time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 So, people too often have to "Warm up".. And many will have to go into the shop and forge an item or 2 before they warm up and get the mindset aligned.. Interestingly much of that has to do with experience level and preparedness. There are different levels for sure. If I have a big forging to do I won't start with that.. I will start with nails or hooks or something to warm up the muscles.. Usually I can tell right off if it's a good forging day or if I should go back in the house. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 I have heard a story that in a professional shop if, after forging all morning, your anvil was not too hot to comfortably sit on when eating your lunch you hadn't been working hard enough that morning. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 I can believe it.. I am often amused in my own mind what it must be like to forge professionally at one of the old shops and not to care about the gear.. I'm not saying that because I want to destroy equipment, but go to great lengths to take care of my tools.. (so the thought of not cooling and anvil is foreign.) In many places even today tools are considered wear items. So when an anvil breaks or the power hammer gets damaged, while inconvenient it's just business. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted December 31, 2020 Share Posted December 31, 2020 Why the bridge anvils used in the old cable tool drilling days are generally so beat up; time to get the tool back making hole cost a lot more than replacing the anvil; so lots of sledge work by relatively untrained rig hands. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluerooster Posted January 6, 2021 Share Posted January 6, 2021 Or my son, who can destroy an anvil with a toothpick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JW513 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I have a 80lbs colonial 5 footed anvil. Its in good shape for being from potentially 1600s.. I practice with clay on it and let my nephews practice... But i make it known they can't use the hammer on it, unless im there. They are 4 an 5...People think im crazy and over protective but i'd hate it if they chipped an edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
George N. M. Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 JW, If you want to use something that they can hit with you could fabricate hammers out of something softer than the anvil such as plastic, wood, or copper. I have a brass hammer that I occasionally use. "By hammer and hand all arts do stand." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daswulf Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 For an old survivor anvil it would be a shame to mess it up now. As George mentioned, or a WI hammer. Just something dead soft. A WI hammer or annealed mild steel hammer would still move hot metal but shouldn't hurt the face of the old anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 a face saddle is a great way to go.. Very easy to make and depending on how much fabrication skills and materials on hand you can completely cover the whole face. I will be making a few for shop use once the place gets running.. If I have not been forging very often and have something that needs extensive peening, I will use a faceplate so this damage is completely avoided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 A face saddle can be made by riveting or bolting a piece of metal that will go into the hardie hole on to a piece of plate. It does not have to be pretty, it only has to protect the anvil face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JW513 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 ^I thought of the wooden hammers for the kids. I should make a face saddle for it. Fortunately and unfortunately, its so old it doesn't have a hardy hole, but thats ok. Here is a picture of it. Its been used but for its age, I think it's in great shape. I'd like to take some hot iron to it, and will.. But I'm not going to abuse it.. The best was when my 4 year old nephew said "uncle joe can we get an anvil and clay for our house"? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jlpservicesinc Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 It's really cool and a punch block is all you will need. In the old days they were all the rage.. If you wanted to setup a quick work hardie hole it's pretty easy with a little bit of chain and some plate. My buddy Eric Johnson is about to pour a bunch of swage blocks.. I'm sure he'd be happy to make a hardie/pritchel hole block too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JW513 Posted January 24, 2021 Share Posted January 24, 2021 I will private message you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.JPG.709dad07e8fea36ff1bade44acc98e95.JPG)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.