A variation on the classic chain holddown: two sections of motorcycle drive chain, weighted down with bell clappers. Rather than attaching to a single point (a hook or the like) at the fixed end, the chains can be positioned on a heavy wire slide. This way, they can hold a workpiece either separated or side-by-side as circumstances require; they can also be positioned at almost any point on the length of the anvil's face.

When not in use, each chain drops down to the anvil's base.

 

 

The slide is made from the heavy wire from an election sign and is something of a proof-of-concept. If I like how it works, I'll probably make something a bit more robust out of 1/4" round or the like.

Great idea , I really like the way you can adjust down the length of the anvil. I hope you don't mind my stealing that idea , I have all the parts. Just put it together.

Go for it!

Nice, good idea

George

Now that's the best holddown I've seen to date, good job.

Added a wire loop handle to one of the weights, for ease of lifting and positioning. (Thanks to Thomas Powers for the suggestion.)

I will probably make some beefier ones out of 1/4" round the next time I fire up the forge.

Going to have to make me one of those. Nice! 

Drive chain hold downs are darned effective, nicely done John. I've seen a T bar anchor that slips through the hardy hole and lets work be secured lengthwise on the anvil. Especially handy if you want to use the step.

I think a weight is a LOT handier than springs but either way they're effective hold downs.

Frosty The Lucky.

Okay, made some proper handles:

Each handle is bent from 17" of 1/4" x 3/4" flat bar.

The handles attach to the clapper stems with heavy wire "staples". The loop of the staple goes through the chain in the back.

The chains can be crossed over to give extra holding power in a smaller spot.

No photo, but the handles and weights go all the way under the stand when not in use.

 

Good Morning,

If you turn the handles upside down, you could put your foot in it and have control. I am not meaning "Get the Lead out", just a little more control on the 'Chain Gang'.

There is no incorrect way, whatever works is good.

Neil

 The handles are great for lifting and positioning the weights, so I'm definitely leaving them where they are. However, it would be fairly easy to attach a stirrup to the bottom of the chain or the bottom of weight if some additional holding power is needed. Thanks for the suggestion; I will certainly keep that in mind.

Remember too that using a stirrup can throw off your hammering stance.

Good point. Chances are that if I'm going to need the extra holding power, I'm also going to need a good stance for a hefty blow.

This thread convinced me to make my own variation that has ideas stolen from a few different sources. The weights work, but I think a foot pedal provides superior clamping force. The chain can easily be kicked off the peg welded to the pedal, and the pedal and chain can be removed entirely with just two pins.

Very nice!

Another thing that I figured out yesterday is that this is quite good for holding down my bridge tool,  which otherwise has a tendency to bounce around when I'm using the bickern. 

As noted over in the “What did you do in the shop today” thread, the wire proof-of-concept slide (see top photo) gave up the ghost, so I made a new one from 1/2” round:

Close-up of how it’s attached:

The tabs are a bit thin, because I accidentally made them too short and had to draw them out a bit more than originally planned. Still nice and solid, though. 

Addendum: now that I have a welder on loan for a little while, I'm thinking seriously about throwing a couple of spot welds on to hold the slide more firmly to the stand, just as insurance. 

I am planning a variation of this when I get some time. The slide bar will be a handle, as that's already needed on my stump to tilt back onto casters for moving in and out of the garage plus hanging hammers on. The hooks attaching it will be open enough to remove with similar weights on the other end, so that i can remove the hold down when moving the anvil around. May use a heavy duty carabiner for the connection between chain and handle for a secure removable setup. 

13 minutes ago, Charcold said:

May use a heavy duty carabiner for the connection between chain and handle for a secure removable setup. 

Now that’s an interesting idea. I might give that a try, but with the carabiner as the connection between the chain and the slide. That way, the whole chain-and-handle assembly could be unhooked and put elsewhere, if necessary. 

Ya I was thinking having a permanent handle/slidebar on there would be good but i can see my shins or knees hitting those weights a time or two! 

Hi John,

Please tell me you made two sets and have an extra set up just laying there waiting for some needy local smith. Ha!

Sorry, no such luck. However, they’ve got some pretty massive roller chain over at HGR!

I hear that! Going the this morning.. Got a great deal on a small blower.. $5.00 Picking up a welding table too..

Timing chains for  some DOHC engines are  leaf style chains and would make a great gripping chain.

I have some old chains from work that are from #25 up to #80-2 and #80-3 triple wide.