Jump to content
I Forge Iron

Designing a Mobile Tool Tray....


VaughnT

Recommended Posts

Some time back, I saw this photo and decided I'd rather like to have something similar in my shop.  And since this is such a great place for problem-solving and general ingenuity, I'm hoping you will all chime in with thoughts on the basic design and suggestions for things you might want to try.  What experiences have you had with your tool organization?

c2418d1f6e9bef0e371db41c268d4308.thumb.jpg.dc20520fd6433a874a0ad89e3711dcbc.jpg

 

So far, the parameters are:

1:  Rectangular rather than square since the cut-offs of expanded metal I have can be utilized more fully and it will maximize the functionality of the cart.

2:  The tong/hammer ring will only cover three sides.  I can't see having tools hanging all the way blocking access to the shelves.

3:  Definitely three decks on the cart.  Part of the reason for this build is to get all of the little anvil tools in one place that's relatively easy to organize and keep track of.

4:  Top edge to be level with the face of the anvil so I can theoretically use it as a support for longer items.  Never needed such, but why not?

5:  Angle Iron frame (maybe 1"x1"x1/8") since I already have some on hand that needs to be used for something.

6:  Expanded metal grating for the shelves so dirt and scale can fall through rather than build up.  

For the wheels, I'm pretty set on these -- cast iron body with a poly tire that'll roll smooth on the concrete floor.  The pipe stem will be easy enough to weld in place and looks stout.

Casters.thumb.jpg.2f9f64fbe75dac92c03547e485774e86.jpg

 

A wall-mounted tool rack isn't an option right now, and I like being able to get every blessed bit of anvil tooling into one place.  My current tool rack/tray is working, but it's overloaded and I spend an inordinate amount of time digging through the pile for small stuff.  While it's great for holding the hammers and tongs, a lot of the them are rarely used and could live on one of the cart's decks.

Thoughts?  See any flaws?  Have any issues creep up on your tool organization?  Things you'd like to have done differently?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What is this "tool organization" of which you speak?

Seriously, that looks like a good idea. The three-sides-only rack is a good idea, as is using expanded metal for the shelves. 

One thought about chisel and punch storage: a few months back, I started keeping these in a series of tin cans screwed to the side of my tool rack. With their working ends up, it makes it very easy to find the one I need, much better than when they're all jumbled up flat. Why not make the top of your rack out of short (say, 4") sections of pipe, with expanded metal below? If you space them properly, you can use the spaces between them as well, like this:

IMG_2408.JPG

You'll be able to fit a lot more tools in the same space, and it will be a lot easier to spot the one you want when you want it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 swivel wheels allow for unrestricted movement and work much better than 2 swivel and 2 straight wheels. Estimate the amount of weight the stand will be required to hold and then double to triple that weight for the load factor on the wheels. Larger diameter wheels can roll over things, small diameter wheels do not.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was going to suggest the pipe sections welded to angle iron for the side that doesn't hold hammers.

For tooling: don't arrange by size; arrange by how often you use it with the more common items higher up!

Think of a dedicated hammer rack out of the way somewhere and only your "favorites" on the rolling rack; once you get past 100 or so handled tools you'll need to be able to see them to grab the *perfect* one for a job but not need them "close" all the time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

20 hours ago, VaughnT said:

 Top edge to be level with the face of the anvil so I can theoretically use it as a support for longer items.  Never needed such, but why not?

I realized last week that my tv tool tray was about the same height as my anvil, something i didn't ever notice. lol. it is close enough that i can set longer bars on it, and so far I am enjoying it, not really any reason why I wouldn't though.

                                                                                                                   Littleblacksmith

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some good ideas, gents.  Much to think about!

Looking at my stockpile of expanded metal, I have two pieces that are 2'x4'.  I have two more pieces that I could tack together to make a third deck on the cart, but I'm starting to wonder if I need three levels.

With the casters being as tall as they are, there's only about 25" of room left for the cart body if I want the top of the cart to be level with the face of the anvil.    Seems to me the bottom two levels would be dark, cramped, etc.  

If I make the decks 2'x3' or 18"x30", I think I'd have plenty of room on the bottom deck for my guillotine, anvil vise, bickerns and swages, headache ball, etc.  Of all the big tools, the anvil vise is that gets used most often and it's not so large that I couldn't keep it on the top deck.  With the hammers and tongs hanging on the perimeter ring, the top deck would only have the tools I'm using for the job at hand.  Even if I weld in a nice  selection of tin cans or square tubing for organizing hand-held chisels, that still isn't a lot of room lost.  

Just a rough estimate, but I'd think that both the vise and punch organizer would take up less than half the top deck.  

Another question I have to ponder on is whether or not I want the top deck to be made form expanded metal or solid sheet.  The expanded metal gives you a dust-free work surface, but I can definitely see small things slipping through since the openings are 1-1/2"x3/4".  I have plenty of old shelving that I could cut up for the project so that's not an issue.

So, do I go with three decks or stick with two for right now (top and bottom) and fill in the middle later down the road if I feel like it's needed?  Do I cut up both of the piece of expanded metal to make the decks, or do I keep one whole (saved for a future project) and use one of the old shelves I have to make the top deck?  Or would it be better to make the top deck out of expanded metal so light can shine through to the sheet metal lower deck?

Ugh!  Many ways to go....

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That'd be a neat idea if I could see how to incorporate them into the basic cart design.  With the hammers and tong reins hanging down the sides, there's not much room for fold-out anything on the bottom of the cart.  As for going on the top deck, I just can't see the need for that much enclosed storage.  It's not like this is going to be riding in the back of a truck, after all.  It might go 10' in its entire life! :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Vaughn,

Reading through this topic had me ask one question: are you really sure that you want to use this rack as a stock support stand, too? This would be a very rarely used function but it limits your design pretty much. Plus as my experience says, for a support unit you ought to use something light and quickly movable. (Kicking around a fully loaded rack even on wheels, that can be annoying.)  Also supporting any stock may be needed more often at the forge or by an arch welding bench. - My point is: with some minor plus work you can make a lightweight multitask support while your options go towards a better way with the tool rack.

Bests:

Gergely

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 minutes ago, Gergely said:

are you really sure that you want to use this rack as a stock support stand, too?

Nothing is set in stone.  I figure that you have to have a height for the tool cart, so why not make it the same height as the anvil ..... when your anvil is already set pretty tall to prevent stooping.

Would I ever use that feature?  Probably not.  However, a cart that's 30" tall isn't that odd, I think.

Still, nothing is certain at this point: I started out with 3 levels to the thing and am now leaning hard to only 2 levels.  Maybe that middle shelf will get added later on, but maybe it won't be needed at all?  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The stock support stand I have (got with the rest of the stuff) is two pieces of square stock that fit inside each other, welded to a plow share thingy, with a v-shape on the top and a handle welded to all-thread that goes in a nut on the outer piece of square stock to make it easily adjustable.  Sorry, no pics now, and not a very good description.  Now I have to start my German homework...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good advice above. Even if its on casters, your tool rack won't move much, unless you have multiple forging stations around your shop.

Keeping one side open so you can get at the shelves is a great idea.  I wouldn't bother trying to make your tool stand a support rack as well,

Solid metal for the top tray, expanded metal for the lower trays, where you are less likely to clean up .

Making the punch rack portable on the other hand, could be handy.

Here's mine, mocked up in scrap lumber and never redone in metal. Fuller now than when the pics were taken. You will always expand the tool collection beyond any capacity to store it.

Toolrack1.jpg

toolrack2.jpg

punchrack.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...