Elemental Metal Creations Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 A friend offered to loan me his granpa's 300lb anvil. Any help on the brand would be appreciated. That is a 12 prybar on the face. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Good Morning, Anvil ID??? Call it any name you wish, start with Peter. It might be Mr. Wright, but, it doesn't matter if it is Mr. Wrong!! The exterior Patina will clean up with use. Treat it with the love it deserves. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
the iron dwarf Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 ID here, cant help you much till you get better pictures of the markings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frozenforge Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Cant really tell from these photos without a little cleaning. Check the rebound, if its good clean it up and put it back to work! Bring your friends granpa over to see your setup, Im sure he would appreciate it and maybe he has some knowledge to share! When and if you clean it up get some good pictures and getting an I.D. might be possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Foundryman Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 It's hard to say but it looks like a Peter Wright but the photos aren't ideal, if you post another photo showing the feet it should confirm it. The feet on Peter wright anvils have a flat top under the horn and heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Judson Yaggy Posted February 21, 2016 Share Posted February 21, 2016 Forged anvil. Flats on the feet, rectangular hole in the front foot. Peter Wright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Flats and rectangular hole, Peter Wright. Just flats and it could be an early Trenton (which also has an hourglass in the base just to throw folks off who are familiar with Hay Budens) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 Trentons from Germany and early Trentons made in the U.S. had flats on the feet, they were forged, they did not have the hourglass shape under the base. Trentons that have the hourglass shape on the underside of the base came after the forged version, those bases were cast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 So the trentons I have seen with the flats on the feet and the hourglass in the base are not forged but cast and not cast but forged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 The flats were done by forging from all I've seen. I haven't seen a Trenton with the German-styled flats on the feet that had a cast base. The hourglass shape on the bottom is a cast base. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 And I have seen several with flats and hourglass thus the quandary. IIRC at least one was shown on this site. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Frog Posted February 22, 2016 Share Posted February 22, 2016 I'd have to see one to believe it at this point. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elemental Metal Creations Posted February 22, 2016 Author Share Posted February 22, 2016 Frozen, I wish I could invite Grandpa over but he passed years ago. Thomas, I knew the flatsand rectangular hole on the feet indicated a particular maker but could not rember who. Thanks to all for the help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy Martin TN Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 New member here, and not wanting to high jack thread.I have one that looks just like that, maybe smaller by a smidge.It has a 2 1 9 on the waist. Couldn't find a name on it , but only had a hand held brush with me. The horn had the tip damaged some. A small piece is broken off. What do the numbers mean in weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John McPherson Posted February 28, 2016 Share Posted February 28, 2016 English hundredweight system. 2 x 112 + 1 x 28 + 9 = 261 pounds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy Martin TN Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 (edited) If my anvil is a Peter Wright,is it a forged or cast steel anvil? What is best repair of horn? Edited March 1, 2016 by Tracy Martin TN Added info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swedefiddle Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 Why repair it? Is it going in a Beauty Contest?? Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy Martin TN Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 I would like the horn to have a smaller end on it. It is about 1 1/8 diameter now. I wanted it close to original size. Maybe reshaping with a grinder is best way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 forged wrought iron anvil with steel face forge welded to it. So the answer to your question is "No". (is it a forged or cast steel anvil) I strongly suggest that if you need a smaller horn to work on you forge a bic for it and leave the horn as is. There is a reason that almost all old anvils have a blunt horn and the first time you see someone walk into a sharp tipped horn in a sensitive area it will be come clear to you why so many look like someone took a hammer and smashed them blunt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tracy Martin TN Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 How blunt should the horn be? What size blunt were they originally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 As blunt as you need for your work. Originally they were probably shipped fairly sharp and they expected the owner to modify it to suit themselves. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 Does it matter? It's old and used it's earned every mark on it. Do you have a reason to need a sharp horn? Do you know how BAD a sharp horn feels when you walk into it? If you need a sharp horn a bic that fits the hardy hole or your vise was and is the more common norm. I'll bet the original owner blunted the horn shortly after getting it set up. A word to the wise, brush and oil that fine old lady and put her to work for a year or two till you have some miles under your hammer THEN decide if you want to alter your tools, based on experience and need rather than uniformed, inexperienced wants. I'm not tossing you guff it's really common for a new comer to any skilled craft to want the best of tools. We all did and most still do but we have to learn what really counts in a tool. Nobody is born with this knowledge, let it grow before you start making modifications that can't be undone. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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