Razzputin Posted January 24, 2013 Author Share Posted January 24, 2013 What I will be doing is I am buying a piece of spring steel 14mm thick, 80mm wide and 900mm long, this I will then cut to the basic shape with a cutting torch and from there fore out the cutting edge and spikes as seen. I will also be adding a fuller (Blood channel) down the center so as to reduce the weight a little and also to provide more rigidity to the blade. Seeing as it is already spring steel I will take care not to burn it. that being said I will not need to harden it afterwards. If it was out of mild steel I would case harden it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
basher Posted January 24, 2013 Share Posted January 24, 2013 this is a wall hanger rite? starting with a 17.5 lb lump of spring steel. Id chose mild steel . if so why use spring steel as it will make your life hard all the way. have you allowed for your tang in your dimensions. spring steel is likely to auto harden when you cut it with a gas axe so you will have to temper it or preferably normalise it before grinding. if you plan to forge the blade you must remove all the cutting "swarf" and Haz before proceeding to forging. A fuller does not stiffen a blade it makes it lighter and less stiff as you are removing metal. why 14mm I make lots of swords and even the really big two handed ones do not go above 9mm at the blade tang transition . you will get all the visuals you need from bevelling at 10mm and save yourself 5lb of steel removal. there is no reason why this cant be made however If I was going about it Id make a small sample knife using the same techniques as the sword with spikes etc and then see if I need to alter my methods before messing up a big project . I would also try an make it fall into the possibilities of being a real sword or at least make it so ridiculously large that it becomes a statement . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 The fact that you think you don't need to harden (and then temper) a blade made from spring steel tells me you need more research. Most of my blades are 5160 (spring steel), and if I didn't harden them I could fold them in half by hand and they would stay bent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razzputin Posted January 25, 2013 Author Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hmmm well I was told by my mentor and 30 years of experience blade/sword smith that I don't need to. What I posted previously is basically what he said to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dodge Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Spring steel is only springy after it is heat treated to be so. Spring steel that has not been HT'd makes lousy springs. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stormcrow Posted January 25, 2013 Share Posted January 25, 2013 Hope you're not planning on doing much cutting if you go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rhyfelwr Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 Maybe you need a better mentor, also with a mentor that has "30 years experiance" making blades why do you need to ask help here. Seems like you'd be better served with some hands on teaching. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThomasPowers Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 PLEASE assure me that the flattening of the spring steel is !*NOT*! being done cold! As for learning: making bad designs is not nearly as good as making good designs to teach you to make good designs. Also turn around time; much better to make your beginner mistakes on smaller blades where you can do 2 a weekend than for a piece that will take *months* PLEASE assure me that the flattening of the spring steel is !*NOT*! being done cold! As for welding I have seen a number of renaissance swords where "horns" were forge welded to the piece and then the area forged out. If you can't forge weld then it's not a good suggestion for you. Full fusion welds by modern means can be used but generally are a lot more work to turn out "nice" PLEASE assure me that the flattening of the spring steel is !*NOT*! being done cold! (There is a website out there that advocates cold straightening of leaf springs for swords which is such a BAD idea I shudder to even mention it! Also remember that the finished blade with hilt should be 6-8 pounds TOTAL for a two handed using sword; bearing swords often got quite heavy 15 pounds not being unknown but on the battlefield an overly heavy sword is slow and slow is *DEAD*!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted June 30, 2013 Share Posted June 30, 2013 What I will be doing is I am buying a piece of spring steel 14mm thick, 80mm wide and 900mm long, this I will then cut to the basic shape with a cutting torch and from there fore out the cutting edge and spikes as seen. I will also be adding a fuller (Blood channel) down the center so as to reduce the weight a little and also to provide more rigidity to the blade. Seeing as it is already spring steel I will take care not to burn it. that being said I will not need to harden it afterwards. If it was out of mild steel I would case harden it. you need to read more, anyone with basic skills should know that Mild will not harden. Case hardening isnt good for swords either. As for the rest I wont bother, seeing as you have not read what I wrote already. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I am Still ROTFLMMFAO after reading this thread . I guess That is All I have to post as I am still trying to catch my breath . Yet I am very surprised Many of the Vet Smiths posted as many times as they did to warn of the impracticality of this project . Best Regards Sam And Bless you Smiths that did not loss your composure on this one ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I am Still ROTFLMMFAO after reading this thread . I guess That is All I have to post as I am still trying to catch my breath . Yet I am very surprised Many of the Vet Smiths posted as many times as they did to warn of the impracticality of this project . Best Regards Sam And Bless you Smiths that did not loss your composure on this one ! And ain't that just like you Sam. Not going to reveal the secrets are you? We're old friends, you can trust me, I won't tell anyone else. Should I use a solar forge to forge a Light sabre? What kind of anvil and hammer? Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert Yates Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 Man Frosty, You let the cat out of the Bag not many know we have that forging Technological Ability now days . <Grins> Sam Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 I like cats Sam and they don't like bags. . . Well, Damascus, Bug's Bane likes bags but she's weird, even for a cat. At least I didn't say anything about vitrified dilithium refractory in the phaser forge did I? See? I can keep mum. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bentiron1946 Posted July 1, 2013 Share Posted July 1, 2013 You use a "light" hammer on a "light" anvil to forge a "light" saber, now if you want a "heavy" saber go with "heavy" hammer and anvil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 You use a "light" hammer on a "light" anvil to forge a "light" saber, now if you want a "heavy" saber go with "heavy" hammer and anvil. lol this is almost as funny as the OP was. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 lol this is almost as funny as the OP was. Well Steve, we WERE making LIGHT of it. Let the forge be with you. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan C Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Thanks for making me see the LIGHT...I could never understand why in the first movies everyone had to use two hands on their "light" sabre and then in the prequels everyone is wielding them single handedly, one in each hand, dual bladed. They must've lost the technology to make "light" hammers & anvils when they killed off all the jedi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frosty Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 Thanks for making me see the LIGHT...I could never understand why in the first movies everyone had to use two hands on their "light" sabre and then in the prequels everyone is wielding them single handedly, one in each hand, dual bladed. They must've lost the technology to make "light" hammers & anvils when they killed off all the jedi. Yoda thought they'd learn. Frosty The Lucky. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Sells Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 silly they are being, Yes, more attention they should pay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WmHorus Posted July 2, 2013 Share Posted July 2, 2013 might just have been easier to buy the one they were selling Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Yoda thought they'd learn. Frosty The Lucky. They never managed to get "never bring a knife(or litesabre) to a gunfight"! That bronze sword was awsome- Anyone have info on how they made that mold- I know lost wax- I'm more interested in the(what looks like) mud- it did seemed to "soften" rather than "shater from thermal shock" at imersion. great video, thanks for posting. Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ianinsa Posted July 3, 2013 Share Posted July 3, 2013 Sorry Razzputin, I got sidetracked. Any pics yet? Something to still the naysayers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SnailForge Posted July 4, 2013 Share Posted July 4, 2013 If Einstein didn't press on he would have achieved nothing. Yeah. But Einstein was quite an accomplished physicist with a thorough understanding of the area he was working in. He was not a simple patent clerk who one day woke up with the idea that everyone else was wrong. In blacksmithing terms, Einstein was an accomplished master smith before he attempted to forge a sword that is incredibly complex to make. He was not a beginner who attended a knife making seminar and then set out to make said sword. Btw, have you calculated how much this sword would weigh with the proposed dimensions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike Morrow Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 Don't know if the original poster is still around, or if anyone is still interested. But there's a video of someone who did create one. A brief glimpse of the process really, but you can see the amount of work and difficulty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacobd Posted August 15, 2014 Share Posted August 15, 2014 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=5N6wQc6kbA8 Watch this. It'll show you what a guy with 10's of thousands of dollars in tools has to do to make it. My opinion? Wish in one hand XXXXX in the other. See which one fills up faster. Watch the language, you are pushing it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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