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I Forge Iron


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Everything posted by SnailForge

  1. You have copyright so he is not allowed to make exact copies. That said fighting in court is more expensive than it is worth. How about telling him you claim copyright but allow him to make copies as long as your name or business card us included in the ad and with each sale? That would you you a lot more good than fighting over this for a few dollars
  2. That only works with knife nut users. Other than outside my niche with high end razors, no user I ever sold an entry level general purpose knife to was interested and most would not even know there are more types than 2: stainless or not. If you make entry level cost knives, I highly doubt that the user will care or be qualified to make a choice. What you're suggesting is a bit like a dentist asking general customers what drill they prefer. A dentistry afficionado would be able to give a meaningful answer but most customers just want to get their cavity filled
  3. keep in mind that commercial grade razor blades contain a lot of crud in terms of coating and alloying. It may make forge welding difficult or cause HT problems later on.
  4. In terms of finish, I'd recommend doing the last couple of grit levels by hand. the finish will be much more smooth, and there will be no coarse grinding marks left. If you grind all the way on a belt sander, there is a very good chance that you will leave a lot of semi visible scratches and marks even at the higher grit level. If you have a smooth consistent finish before etching, the etching will come out much cleaner and nicer. In terms of geometry, I think perhaps the handle should come out at a more shallow angle
  5. Cryogenic nitrogen is also very good at creating terrible burns and scars. The OP mentions he has 'access to' which generally does not infer ownership or knowledge skill but merely technical access to. Without wanting to be dismissive: liquid nitrogen is dangerous, and requires knowledge and skill to use in heat treatment safely and with a chance of success. If you don't have the experience to be able to choose between different steels for an intended purpose, it's a fairly safe bet that liquid nitrogen will not improve matters at all. Stick to water and oil until you know what you a
  6. The obvious anser would be to pick the steel that is most suited to what you are trying to make.
  7. The belt in that video was 220 grit. Personally I like to use 120 grit ceramic after HT but at the time I had the choice between 60 or 220. 220 worked but was a bit slow. SFM I don't know It wasn't my machine and it had no numeric setting just a turn dial. Fairly slow.I run my belt at only 10 % of full speed at that stage during hollow grinding and I'd say 2 bumps per second on a 72 " belt.
  8. Last February I was in Texas in a gathering of razor makers. It was a place for people to get some insight in various aspects of razor making, and I was helping people make their first razor, explaining things and doing a couple of forging demos along with Howard Clark and Mike Blue. One of the things that came up was: how do I grind a razor the last bit of the way after heat treatment. There are many ways to do this, and I won't say that my way is best. This is just what I do and it works for me. One benefit it has over other methods is that I get very small bevels on my razors which can
  9. That's one from Dylan Farnham. I've made a couple of fixed handle razors. They're easier to make than regular folding razors because the thing doesn't have to close dead center of the scales so there is more leeway for asymmetric error.
  10. Thanks. I am essentially self taught when it comes to making them. I've been shaving with straights since I was a teen. A decade ago I became a member of straightrazorplace where I started learning to properly hone them, and how to shave properly, using a brush, using a leather belt to strop, etc. After a while I started taking apart vintage razors with mild damage to restore them, polish them clean using handsanding, etc. At the time I saw a razor made by Robert Williams who was (one of) the first to forge razors as a customs maker. It was a razor in Damascus with mammoth ivory scales. T
  11. 8000 is sufficient for shaving. Anything beyond that is just the cherry on top. The Norton 4000/8000 is my workhorse and pretty inexpensive. The one thing I will say is that you have to shave with a razor and learn to sharpen them in order to know what it is about. It is also very helpful to buy a couple of vintage blades on ebay, take them apart and restore them to get a feel for the geometry. The main obstacle is hollow grinding, but if you don't have access to a grinder, you could essentially do the same with the stone of a benchtop grinder and lots of elbow grease. I suggest you
  12. For me it depends on what I am making. Straight razors are my main area of expertise where I have a good reputation and my work is respected. In that market, I have spent a lot of time tracking the time of every step involved, and my prices have evolved to x Euro per hour + cost of the materials. Razors are what my business is built upon so there I get paid for time in my shop. Kitchen knives are more of a hobby at this point. Something I want to become better at and there I just charge cost of materials plus a more or less fixed amount. I only do kitchen knives to get better at cert
  13. 320 layer O2 / 15N20 Damascus made by Maarten Van Hattem, Stabilized Elk antler marrow. San mai that I made using O2 for the core, and O2/L6 Damascus by Howard Clark. Hybrid scales of stabilized burl cap and colored resin Wootz steel by Evrahim Baran (Local Belgian craftsman who specializes in just making wootz and crucible steel). The scales are fossil mammoth tusk Ivory Unknown Damascus steel from a knife tip I got from Hank Knickmeyer when I visited him in Missouri a couple of months ago. The scales are cobalt blue glow in the dark materia
  14. Thanks. Although looking back at those pics, I would have done some things different. These days I have all but stopped using tool steel and only use laminated steels or wootz. I can only make a couple per month, and I prefer spending my time making things with patterns.
  15. Yes, files 'can' be used. However, other than the geometry, heat treatment is the main stumbling block for straight razor newbies. and because the edge is so very thin, it is more important than if you were making a machete for example. Known tool steel such as 1086, 1095, O1, L6 or 15N20 are abundant and very cheap. You stand a much better chance to make a decent razor using known steels, and if you are experiencing troubles during heat treatment, it is much easier for others to give you advice. Many files are good steel but unknown steel. My advice is don't use old files for r
  16. Nope. I cannot post a link. Apparently i cannot even just say in words where it is on the other place, and posting here is plain impossible because this software is broken beyond repair. Instead of worrying that people might find their way over to the other place, the owners could think about why i stopped posting the article here. I want to share this knowledge and preferably right here but that is impossible. So i guess that means noone here will see it. To continue the bar analogy: how do you expect people to stay if you don't have chairs or beer? Was all this misery really
  17. No everything is visible either way. Now that you know where it is, you can easily test it by logging out snd checking
  18. I posted a link here, in my previous post. If you look at it, only the first 'w' of www is still there. Either the software ate my link and left the 'w' (which I doubt because the post came through fine yesterday) or one of the mods objected to me posting the link and edited it out without sending me a message or posting a clarification. I would hope that if someone edited out my link, they would send me a message. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  19. The first part is up, and so far includes everything up to and including Heat Treatment. I posted it in the forge section at straightrazorplace because that is where many razor makers hang out, and it would allow people to ask questions, whereas my site is static. why not post the information here rather than using our bandwidth to send people to your site? If you wish to advertise here please PM Foo for advertising rates.
  20. Today I finished HT and I took pics along every step of the way. I am finishing up the first part of the article (everything up to right after the HT). As soon as that is ready I will post it, and post here. That should be sometime this weekend. I am at 2300 words already, I suspect that after HT, I will be around 4000 words. And that is roughly half of what the total will be.
  21. I just posted a reply to give it one more try, and that got eaten again... I will try again if and when the site actually works. @Michael I'll PM you a link when I put it online on my website or so.
  22. And now of course I cannot edit the previous comment anymore after it first disappeared in its entirety, and then went through with just the pics and the above comment, and then 2 failed attempts to insert the text only to be told I can not edit anymore.. I'm sorry guys. I give up. This is just not working and my post in the feedback forum has gotten exactly zero suggestions on how to make it work. If the software ever gets fixed I will finish this series, but there is no way I am going to make 10 or so more posts in this manner, with half an hour or more of frustrated attempts at ge
  23. It would be too much to assume that the software would be working for a change.
  24. Now it is time to forge out the general shape of the razor. I use a primitive setup to heat the steel. I like working with charcoal because it burns clean, doesn’t smell, and doesn’t have the potential to make the shop go boom.. First I mark the transition between the edge and the tang using the side of the anvil. Then I upset the tang area a bit to get it out of the way of the edge part. Then I do the same at the other end of the edge part, using my horn to pinch it just a bit. This makes it fairly easy to bevel the edge part into a triangle without messing up the tang. Once the e
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