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The TOOL BOX


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If you were to build a tool box for blacksmithing, what size would you make the box, what would be a suggested weight of the box, and what tools or other objects would you include in the box?

I spoke with David and have made changes to the original post to make it more generic.

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They had a replica of the old box and tools found within at the abana con, fascinating..

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=viking+chest+with+tools&source=web&cd=1&ved=0CGwQFjAA&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.angelfire.com%2Fwy%2Fsvenskildbiter%2FViking%2Fvikchest.html&ei=DIEYUObLG8TviQLb24HIAw&usg=AFQjCNE-aTOZJBmIO5MUA6tXoqaW3MwD1A&cad=rja

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Check out BAM. They have been doing a box for a long, long time. www.bamsite.org Also Saltfork Craftsmen in Oklahoma has a box each year that is raffled off on Sat. nite of the conf. www.saltforkcraftsmen.org Although hand forged tools are nice for the box they are not limited to that. We have had folks donate welding flux, soap stone, files, you name it! Don't limit yourself with ONLY hand forged items.
Hammers
tongs
hacksaw handle
punches
chisels
hardie hot cut
handled hot cut
monkey tools
scribe
wire brush with hand forged handle
square
hook rule
bending fork for the hardie
hand held bending fork
and so on

Both BAM and Saltfork will have someone step up and make the box and someone else will make the box hardware. I have yet to see a junker! Tickets are sold months in advance of the conf. during the conf. and right up to the last few minutes before the box is drawn for.

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The Mastermyr tool chest was discovered in October of 1936 in Gotland, Norway when a farmer was plowing a field that had at one time been a bog. It was probably not originally built as
a tool chest, but was later used as one. The plans to make a chest based on the Mastermyr find show the simensions to be 10-5/8 inches wide, 9-1/4 inches tall and 37-1/2 inches long. Some research let me know the height is appropriate for sitting upon while rowing a galley ship.

I would suggest the total weight should be easy to lift, move and be portable. The contents should include some first aid products, as well as soap and towels to wash up.

Most importantly, include a membership to iforgeiron.com
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The biggest thing to remember about building and outfitting a blacksmithing tool box is weight.

You want as much multi-tasking as possible otherwise it gets really heavy really quick.

Punches and slitters can be repurposed. A ball-peen and cross-peen, one with a rounding face, can be used for just about everything. A few small tongs, with one that can be reshaped should the need come up.

Keep it to the very minimum with the idea that tools can be re-shaped or re-purposed to serve whatever need arises at the moment. Trying to carry a dozen tongs and three hammers and a punch or drift in every size...... you can see how old that gets!

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I'm trying to think of why I would put blacksmith tools in a box. I only do that when I'm going to give a demo and need to take some of my tools with me. When boarding a plane, I check in my rectangular, aluminum tool box that I got at Good Will. Its about 5" thick and measures about 12" x 18". I put a thick leather handle on it.

My other tool boxes are for installations. They are square, plastic, milk crates covered with "Duluth Trading" organizers with fabric tool and accessory pockets. I carry wood working and iron working tools in them.

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I agree Mr. Turley! If you will look at the boxes that BAM and Saltfork do you will understand. These are pieces of ART!! I know of 3 boxes that are Displayed for their beauty. The tools, though all very nice and extremely well made are being used...well, MOST of them anyway. :P Alan and Jeff Lee have a box with some special tools that they don't use. For the most part the wife will take possession of the box and let hubby have the "old ugly tools".

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I have a shop at home. I also have a trailer shop. There will be things I take to camp with me ( camp reads rondys, Civil War, Fairs etc) from the home shop. Some of this happens in Rubbermaid tool boxes. some of this happens in my home built boxes. Standard house siding (#115 if I recall correctly) for the sides, 3/4 boards for the ends (which are rectangular with an extended " A " top ). Between the tops on the ends is a piece of lumber for a handle. This particular box is roughly 30" long and I guess 8" deep.

This makes this box a dump bin of sorts and it can indeed get heavy BUT it is mostly a period box (read butt joints and nails and a few screws). Hammers/tongs/other tools that need no problem location immediately are in the plastic boxes. These tools hang on the stand bu the anvil or get placed on a table. The shop built box contains all other tools (well most of them) that I may or may not need in a 2-4 day camp. I also have other boxes specifically for drills and other things like cutting (leather shears/fabric shears etc ). People expect me to be able to do about anything and I normally go loaded for bear.

One specific box for tools for me is tough to comply with. A 5 day event like Old threshers requires a large selection.

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When away doing period demos I tend to take three wooden chests with me but will the tooling split between them and none of them full due to having to move them. I find boxes with lift off lids more practical as you can just lift the lot up without having to take off all of the tooling - the boxes also serve to keep the tools off of the deck and somewhere to sit.
Like Ten Hammers has said, I also find folks coming up at the events asking if I can fix this or that so I end up carrying things Like a leather workers kit, assorted rivets, brazing rod, flux, solder and one of those little pencil sized gas torches with a spare can of gas. You can end up as a one stop repair shop.
What I also find suprising is the amount of people - public and reenactors who come up asking for advice on all sorts of topics

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As a suggestion, pick up a copy of "The Blacksmiths Craft" Vol I, by Dixon.

Its a great reference book and an excellent present if you know anyone getting into the craft Pg 135 has a pic of Francis Whitaker's traveling toolbox and details its content. Not sure how much it weighs in at but it appears to have most of what would be handy.

Ref ISBN NO..0-9707664-7-5

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Maybe left over from my shoeing days....I think a tool box has at least foiur wheels, a way to enclose and lock it. An engine, and parts needed to make move when and how fast and ability to stop. In my area an air conditioner is a muxt and at times a heater is pretty nice. Needs two sound systems,.one for driving and one for working.other folks may have different needs

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For a portable kit, or for a beginner that has to move everything everywhere this:
http://www.harborfreight.com/steel-toolbox-91111.html
Tray dimensions: 20-1/2" L x 7-3/4" W x 3" H
Overall dimensions: 21-1/4" L x 8-5/8" W x 10-1/2" H
They list capacity at 25# HA!

I have this box (for my ratchets and wrenches) but it is almost the same dimensions as the discontinued Masterhand box that my forge tools reside in. The best part of both boxes is side handles. The HF box has slots that also hold the tray inside and allow easy purchase, the Masterhand box has D type handles that are rather sturdy. My forge tool box probably weighs about 70#, and I consider it the upper limit of what I WANT to cart around. It could stand to loose 20#. Not everything is in it anymore as I have been taking note of what I use and haven't used.

As for contents I have 6 pair of tongs, in various sizes, favorite hammers, a fistful of punches, chisels, and other small struck tools, a collection of tong rings and more. I could pare it down some more easily if I needed to.

I have a bucket of tools that are not in my box because they are not frequently used. My fire tools are also not in my box.

Phil

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If you were to build a tool box for blacksmithing, what size would you make the box, what would be a suggested weight of the box, and what tools or other objects would you include in the box?

I spoke with David and have made changes to the original post to make it more generic.

This amended post makes some of the earlier poster look as tho they TOTALLY misunderstood the question! If I'm not mistaken the original post was asking about a tool box that was going to be made by a member of a group, filled with tools and supplies by members then sold/auctioned/raffled of by said group as a fund raiser.............. A NEW post should have been started for a "generic" tool box.............
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Hey gang; I missed the point of the tread as well. I have no new thoughts on a raffle or drawing tool box so I'll stay mum.

A pack my tools around box on the other hand I have thoughts about. Somewhere in the drawing files on this machine I have concept and some development drawings of the toolbox I want to make. There are details I haven't bothered with such as length, they'll become evident once I start on it. The basic is a rectangular box 18" wide and 12" deep closed, it'll have a pair of good sized wheels on one end so I can lift and pull it like a hand truck. Once on site the halves open with a latch at 90*. Each half is 18" wide x 6" high and opened to 90* and latched forms a square top 24"x24". Part of one half is a hinge section that lifts up to close the gap for a decent table.

Inside each half is a simple rod or strap to hang tongs and a flip or one to hold hammers. Above the tong and hammer racks are pull out drawers for small tools and parts, punches, chisels, rivets, clips, flux, brazing compounds, etc.

In the bottom of each half is the larger storage area with simple retainers to keep stuff from falling out.

Once set up near the forge it'll keep the less used tools handy and organized but out of the way. I have hammer and tong racks on my anvil stand and forge for the most used tools. The "table" top will make a good display area, smallish tool spot, drawing table and last but certainly not least stool/chair.

The main quandry I have now is how long to make the thing. Being a hand truck it can be pretty heavy full but that leaves lifting it into the truck. If I make it long enough to lean on the tail gate and slide in it's awful long for my short leges to find comfortable as a seat. If it's seat length it'll be harder to load unless I do something creative.

Wish I had pics but I haven't even started on the thing. One of these days. <grin>

Frosty The Lucky.

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Weight is very important---I want mine as heavy as possible! NO WHEELS! the toolbox for me is a way to store tools at a demo or other public venue when I am NOT using them and so it's to deal with a security issues.

I schlep my tools in 5 gallon buckets from the smithy to the truck where they go into the nice flat topped tool boxes and then use the buckets to schlep them from the truck to where the set up will be leaving a nice empty toolbox to be carried and then filled on-site.

I like the tool boxes to be a convenient height to sit on; or to lay tools out on.

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