Can this material be used to make an anvil? I know the piece is a high tensile strength, but am not sure of the actual numbers.

If it is a heavy enough cross section it would work as a flat anvil. Any large section will work, although it will tend to absorb energy from the blows, unlike a good hardened steel surface like an anvil. But if you are just starting out it would work until you could get something better, or if you are lucky enough to come across an anvil.

Terry

I have access to a piece that is 4" x 8" x 48" long. I can cut and machine it to about anything I need. I was hoping it would get me buy till I can get a real anvil.

It's a LOT better than nothing and better than blacksmiths for many thousands of years had to work with.. I'd leave it that length and bury it on end so the working face is the right height. Between knuckle and wrist height.

Frosty

Actualy ductile iron is a good material for an anvil, especialy one that massive. Most large anvils are a little softer anyway. The only slight disadvantage is what tasmisth mentioned, the lack of a hardened top plate, but if it dents severely enough, it sounds like you have the ability to dress it. Mounting the block as Frosty suggested will give you the most bang for your buck.

i'm a begginer bur i like just a tad below knuckle height so i do not hit my knickles on a swing in case i miss. just because if you miss it won't hurt. you may like it that way or just above knuckle height.

You've got a 100lb anvil with good weight distribution and a large, flat face. As Frosty said bury it end-on at a convenient height.

Thanks for the advice guys. Before I bury this hunk of metal in the ground, I was thinking I should machine, say a

Putting a radius on one edge is probably a good idea. Anywhere from a 1/4" to 3/8" radius should work well.

Ductile Cast Iron is the material used in many anvils sold today. JHM, TFS, Clif Carrol, anvils and some others are made of ductile cast iron. Ductile Cast Iron can be made with various properties, depending on the composition of the steel and the hardening process used. It is a weaker material than cast steel from a toughness standpoint, but still seems to work pretty well for anvils. Typically hardness is a little on the soft side usually running between RC 43 and RC 52. Touch it with a file to see if it is much softer than the file (RC60 approx.) or about as hard as the file.

I wouldn't put that big a radius on the anvil. A much smaller one should work. You might want a 1/8" radius on 4" for use in some forgings. That would be the diameter of a pencil (1/4") approx.

Your piece of metal might work for a long time. You might continue to use it after you get your dream anvil.

Would you be able to put a tapered radius on one edge? Perhaps from barely broken to the 1/8" or so.

For those with some metullargical knowledge, can he harden the surface some if it turns out to be a little too soft?

Hardening ductile cast iron with about 4.5% carbon would probably be tricky. Don't think it would act like normal carbon steel. Others on this forum might have a different answer.

Hardening of ductile iron is done with chill plates as it's cast. Nothing to be done about it now.

Frosty

It's my understanding that ductile iron can be surfaced hardened by torching the surface to 900c and then hitting it with a spray quench. You might check out :
http://www.ductile.org/didata/Section7/7intro.htm#Surface Hardening There also are apparently some interesting effects on work hardening the surface.

Actually some of the stuff I'm running across indicates that ductile iron work hardens far better than grey iron:
http://books.google.com/books?id=NbgtnLo7jhwC&pg=PA77&lpg=PA77&dq=work+hardening+ductile+iron&source=bl&ots=IjP6Pk7M_D&sig=KIQcvUPMIEJjrVAu7Q41IC1_k0c&hl=en&sa=X&ei=KttJUc7xL5fI4APmzIG4BQ&ved=0CD8Q6AEwAQ#v=onepage&q=work%20hardening%20ductile%20iron&f=false

This also from the Ductile.org website:

The presence of stable, carbon enriched austenite also accounts for another inadequately understood property of ADI. While thermodynamically stable, the enriched austenite can undergo a strain-induced transformation when exposed to high, normal forces. This transformation, which gives ADI its remarkable wear resistance, is more than mere "work hardening". In addition to a significant increase in flow stress and hardness (typical in most metallic materials), this strain induced transformation also produces a localized increase in volume and creates high compressive stresses in the "transformed" areas. These compressive stresses inhibit crack formation and growth and produce significant improvements in the fatigue properties of ADI when it is machined after heat treatment or subjected to surface treatments such as shot peening, grinding or rolling

**Zombie Thread

 

 

It's not so much the best material for "hardness", but man is the stuff tuff as nails!!! I believe that the flame hardening process is best kept to those that have a controlled and knowledgable understanding/application, ie digital furnaces and the appropriate industrial machinery... That's how a lot of these anvil manufactures are turning out a decent product with what was once thought of as an inferior material... Honestly, the ductile iron is a better material for those just starting out, and to those whom really "get to town" when the irons hot...

This one is going for around $200 on that online auction site as a buy now shipping included. 66lbs SG Iron. Im curious if anyone has used it? I know this is an old thread.

I haven't seen anything about that one. One of the other auction site anvils (also 66 lbs. and ~$2 lb) has been reviewed thoroughly here:

 

671Jungle, (is that in reference to the 6-71 diesels?)  for $200 you have better options. For me, 66# is really small for a general shop anvil. I would suggest at least 125# on up to say 175#.

I would really search out an improvised anvil since you have some decent sized industry around SLC.  You should be able to find a lot bigger chunk of steel for free or at scrap price. Scour KSL's website classifieds. Then try Glenn's suggestion of a coffee can bank that you put some cash in each time you go forge.

If you can put more aside I would suggest looking at an Anvil Brand or JHM. I have a 125# JHM and it is a good anvil.

Thank you Chris. I have read it. It seems to be a hit and miss as far as quality. I like the design of both. 

3 hours ago, BIGGUNDOCTOR said:

66# is really small

Thanks BGD. Agree it is small. Been on the look out for awhile. Currently using an upright track that has been working quite well except for no where to put bottom tools. A recently acquired postvise solved that. Still WANT an anvil though! Got a little piggy I feed my change to. I am currently building my small shop and positioning it so that the morning sun shines upon it!

oh and 671 is Guam’s area code. That engine sounds nice. Did a quick YT search.

I cut my teeth in '64 with the 6-71 diesel at the USCG Engineman school in Groton Conn. They were used extensively in the 40 ft patrol boats and other craft since WWII.

On 4/7/2009 at 11:18 PM, Frosty said:

 I'd leave it that length and bury it on end so the working face is the right height. Between knuckle and wrist height.

Frosty

That is what I would do.

Heat treated ductile iron, the "Basic" model is the smallest at 70 pounds.

There is a yt vid about them.