matt87

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About matt87

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    Exeter, UK
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    Undergrad, archaeology

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  1. Forged anvils were typically made from either a wrought iron base with a shear steel face or entirely from steel (e.g. I think Peddinghaus). I understand the grade of wrought iron was typically the crudest that could be found, both for cheapness and because it was largely self-fluxing. This may be an issue when drilling due to the slag inclusions.
  2. Wasn't the 'duck's nest' type of bottom-blast popular before the cast iron firepots?
  3. What fuel are you using that you can keep it lit with a hand cranked blower?
  4. Thankyou all for an interesting and 'different' thread!
  5. Thanks for the comments chaps! I'll probably fab one up for myself as soon as I dig the arc-welder out from under a pile of steel... Thomas, I 'borrowed' the idea from a cutter I was using last week at Finch Foundry. I guess they have it on hand because you never know what sort of reprobates might pick up a hammer there!
  6. As I understand it the cross-pein on the Hofi hammer is designed for balance, not drawing. Hofi uses the edges of the 'flat' pein for drawing.
  7. Added to the above, charcoal is a potentially renewable resource whereas coal is not.
  8. Here's an idea I had for a tool to aid in nail-making. It incorporates ideas I've 'borrowed' from a number of sources. Basically it's a piece of 50x50x6mm (2x2x1/4 inch) mild angle with angled slots filed into it. The bottom of each slot acts as a cutting edge and the top of the edge is recessed 1mm from the top of the tool. This prevents the nail being cut completely though, saving the nail, the tool's edge and the hammer's face. It also allows the tool to be left in the hardy-hole constantly, much safer than doing so with the hardy-cutter. At the opposite end a piece of 3mm (1.8 inch) mild is welded on, with a tapped hole in line with each cutting recess. In use a machine screw is inserted into each hole with a hex-nut jam-locking it into place, making for a simple but adjustable stop for faster, more accurate cutting. I have shown the tool with a piece of angle-iron welded on as a hard-shank but any suitable way of securing it would work. I invite and welcome your comments and suggestions!
  9. I really like how this project is going Grant! My suggestion is to possibly integrate a vice to the 'forging station' -- something with changeable jaws for different jobs but at a suitable height and built solidly enough to give it a good pounding. If you make it 'leg vice style' the leg could form one side of the tripod base. Furthermore an integrated, flexible, work support and work hold-down would be handy. Perhaps something like a vice-grip welded to a height-adjustable mount.
  10. I believe it's all about mass underneath the hammer rather than elsewhere in the anvil. Mind, I'm no physicist nor do I portray one in films (my avatar aside...)
  11. There is at least one UK gunsmith who offers a service to line Damascus barrel guns with a modern monosteel sleeve, so as to preserve the gun's exterior but allow them to be used, even nitro proofed. Some might think it sacrilige but I consider it a better choice than having it deactivated (butchered) when the barrels get dangerously thin.
  12. Like this? Old World Anvils - 4x4 Anvil Disclaimer: I have no connection to OWA.
  13. A smithing anvil is 'simply' a tough, heavy thing upon which we beat iron. What is 'traditional' -- a European Migration Period (the age of the Vikings) block anvil? An 18th century English block-with-horn anvil? A 1900 Fisher? They all performed the same main functions but technological and economical factors at each point caused typological changes to the anvils. Unless you're trying to re-enact a certain time-period I would humbly suggest you look at 'improvised' smithing tools -- there are many resources available (especially on this site) showing 'improvised' anvils which are often easier and/or cheaper to get hold of than a 150lb Hay Budden or whathaveyou.