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I Forge Iron

bluerooster

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Everything posted by bluerooster

  1. Got hinge #1 ready for a pin, and a good start on hinge #2. Found some old lawn mower blades that work real well for this. Sure is nice to be able to start off with metal of a size closer to the task at hand.
  2. Thomas, as a complete noob to this smithing stuff, the experience I've gained from 1/2"x1" into 1/8"x2", then into an almost doable hinge half was worth it. But, now that I've gained that experience, I'll be sourcing material more suited to the task. Another bit of experience I gained was in the holes, two were punched round, then drifted square, the other two were punched square.
  3. Where the pipe goes through the wall, use two 45 degree bends as opposed to one 90 degree bend. Do same on the outside. Cap off the bottom of the outside flue, drill a 2mm hole in the cap to let water out. My hood is a 55 gallon drum, attached to the forge, with an 8 inch flue running straight up through the roof. I still get a little smoke from time to time with green coal at start up, and when the wind is not in my favor. My flue is small at 8 inches.
  4. I started out with charcoal, Then went to coal. The coal here goes for $30/50 pound bag. Kinda pricey, but, still a bit less expensive than Royal oak in the long run. The last bag of coal was not as clean as previous bags though. (way more clinker) But I like using coal, once I figured out how to work it. I now need a 10 inch flue, the 8 inch doesn't draw very well.
  5. I need to put up a privacy fence around the swimmin' pond. So I decided to try my hand at making the gate hardware. Started a hinge. parent stock is 1/2" x 1". So most of the time was spent getting it to a suitable dimension to start. All done by hand, with many heats. I need to hit up the local supplier for some drops of a closer dimension.
  6. Back when my nephew was into break dancing, I'd bring home pickup hood boxes for him.
  7. I've gotten many good useful tools for cheep from others "castaways". The most recent was an air compressor I rescued from the dumpster. It had quit working, found it had a faulty pressure switch. So, for $25, (cost of switch) I have a nice $300 air compressor.
  8. I like that one with the hook and notches, quick to adjust, and looks like it will work well. May well be the next thing I do in the shop.
  9. No shouldered cartridge!? Wow! So a 45-70 would be just fine then. I like muzzle loaders too. But Black powder is becoming scarce around here. I'm not too sure about using pyrodex never having used it before. As to the flip, I made one from a pecan fork, and a piece of heavy elastic donated/stolen by/from my mothers dress shop. I was mabe 11 or 12, and squirrels didn't stand a chance.
  10. Throw it back in the forge, and re weld. Keep going. One cold shut out of five layers, means that the other joints welded. So hit it again. My last billet, I worked at welding temp through 3 heats to insure it welded, before I started drawing. When I started drawing, the first hit was on the edge, If it seperated, it was immediately brought back to welding heat, and welded again. But I'm a beginner, and may be doing it wrong.
  11. Mabe in about 20 or 30 years I'll be able to make a blade that's half as nice. Most excellent work.
  12. After seeing the blades posted here I'm embarrassed to show mine. But I would like some input, so here goes: The pattern is evident, being 1095 and 10(low carbon =/<30) But The "Ol Lady" sez it just looks dirty. I agree. Mabe more layers? (only 12 here). Other than that I'm happy that it's smooth, and no flaking, of layers. (I assume good weld) I would like to find some known 23xx to bring better contrast.
  13. Got the blade profiled, hardened, tempered, and now is in a bath of coffee. We shall see if it will show a discernible pattern. Probably not much as the two steels are 1095 and 1035 (or less) but no nickle.
  14. I'm a framing carpenter by trade. Everyone on the crew cuts lumber to within 1/32. When we get on to exterior trim we go to 1/64. We are also high paid, and way busy. I beat hot steel at the forge for fun, and do my best to hold to as close tolerance as I can. Prior to framing, I did body work for about 25 years, and hammered cold steel to exceedingly close tolerance.
  15. Yes, as a company with one employee (me) I have to have workers comp. and general liability. Or I don't get to work. But, as a result of having it, I can get the better jobs, where they don't mind paying my rates.
  16. All the suppliers within reasonable driving distance only carry mild steel. Nothing hardenable by usual means. There is one place that also carries 4130 but it's tubing for race car frames, and they price it like platinum.
  17. Looks like they'll work better than mine. Thomas, I can't explain it. Steve, Thanx, It may have a chance to have a pattern of some sort after all. 1095 and 1035. I wanted to work on it today, but wind would not cooperate. I can handle cold, and I can handle wind, but add the two together and no.
  18. Spent a few hours playing with forge welding. Decided to make up a billet of HC/LC just because. It went well. Now to practice drawing, folding, and welding. I know there will be no discernable pattern as both are 10xx steels, but I figure good practice anyway. So far I have a 6 layer billet. I guess I'll stop at 24 to 48 layers, and draw out a blade for a kitchen knife.
  19. I've never heard of a kerbal, But any "Whovian" knows what a Dalek is.
  20. I saw an episode where they were on a farm, had to use coal forge, and what could be salvaged from farm implements. And another where they had to use coal forge, and a large ball bearing. Both shows, were all hand hammer, no "big blu".
  21. That's it. I've gotten a little faster at some things, like tongs, and punches. now that I've gotten the basics down, I and turn out tongs in a shorter time than I first did. Some of the tools that I've made were not made at the forge, like the small swage block. So far it only has a half round, and a vee, but I'm sure I'll be adding more to it in the future.
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