Good idea Foster!
Thanks Stewart, do you have any idea what the anvil weight is on that, the size looks identical
I hope I can score it cheap enough to make it worth building the Hilbert-Freiberg-Williams-White Frankenbeast Hammer!
now the question is, how do I talk the junk yard into selling it to me at scrap price... these guys can be shady if they know what they have, I hope they do not.
Found it, I think page 144 PoP Williams, "White Justice Hammer" has the same rounded front with the double die setup and same shaped pass through, but whats sticking out in my head is the circular base thats not seen in the photo that part is a match
So if anyone saw my powerhammer post ya know its anvil is lacking... But I did find this poor thing in a junkyard and was wondering if anyone could ID what she used to be!
The base that you cant see is about 3' or more in diameter so Im betting its VERY heavy and that block looks in great shape to me, thoughts?
With my hammer being post mounted I could put anything under it for an anvil I think this would be a great option and its already setup for new tooling
heh yea thats true, the one I owned used to be in use at the horseshoeing school, when we pumped it to about 30psi we could weld but it took some work lol but its a great forge for basic horseshoes
Hey country is that a hypona I see in the background? I have one myself, had to order a new jet from canada ( mine was missing ) but my heat is far from welding that it used to be, hows yours running?
Ten Hammers, this is a very common practice for a lot of tong jaws if Im following you in the end you have a half round cross on each bite, my buddy in school was taught this method at the Hereford school of blacksmithing.
I would go the easy route and stick it in a bucket of concrete and sink it so you just have some face sticking out maybe 2-3 inches quick and easy mass
I'm in the same boat with Brian, doing mine by hand but now that I have a ph I could look into crafting a jig but why not forge out to 90% on the hammer then do the V by hand, first pair I made worked for about three years and it was mild steel and the V made on the step of the anvil.
So I was reading though AIA again today and came across the badger section and it reminded me about contacting him.
Thomas Dean, I tried to pm you but it says you cannot receive any new messages. I have a ton of photos of the anvil I would like to get to Mr.Postman and if anyone had some contact info it would be great.
Thanks!
Tom what brands have you found this issue? I have done a rebuild/service on about 5 buffalo and 3 champions with the end result always better than the start, granted this is only a small number.
I agree, or if there is a worry setup a drop wheel rig like the wheeled ladders in lowes. My thoughts anyway something ill try out as soon as I get the shop rebuilt
Wow it looks like someone chewed on a hammer for a while and spit this back out. If it works for whoever got it great but man thats one ugly piece! lol congrats on your win???
I did see a lot of talk about using them just for scale removal, personally I use a wire wheel.. takes like2 minutes... maybe I'm not understanding something or maybe my scale is not as thick..
As much praise as they get there must be something to it so I also need to try one out, I have read of everything being used to make them, springs, files, planer blades and so on.
I guess keeping a point on it is a new requirement everyone that wanted one made so far complains that they are always plugged up... when I asked why do you jam it into the dirt? they reply with a shrug, so spike it is... I think in the future it will be easier for me to forge it into a nice point/hook and just drill an air hole at an angle near the tip so its in no way able to get packed full of mud and dirt
These were my thoughts, but I forgot to take pics that night. My only issue was I only had 1" stock to play with so its waaaay to big inside to get good air pressure, I could taper this down more and make it work but I think using the proper size stock would be much easier.