utaholdiron

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About utaholdiron

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    Salt Lake City, Utah

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  1. That is one clean anvil! I know this is a blacksmithing site but I'd love to see a picture of what I assume to be an ore cart pictured in the background.
  2. Stamped into the anvil on the side opposite the Fisher logo, "FISHER & NORRIS", "259", and "CAST STEEL". There is also what looks like the letter "E" lying on it's back, cast into the anvil just above the foot, on the one short side. I was unable to find a date on the anvil.
  3. @ Timothy Miller, I just printed the HB catalog from the pdf posted above.. Using the "BOOKLET" setting on my printer (and carefully following the instructions) I got a nice copy of your catalog. Thanks so much for sharing. Alan
  4. http://books.google.com/books?id=_BtbAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA374&lpg=PA374&dq=matching+top+and+bottom+swage&source=bl&ots=mtyVnP_M42&sig=S599PD6RSpiq9tyQRTeC2ejw6aE&hl=en&sa=X&ei=GZuKUvmYHcPt2QXe-4GQBg&ved=0CFMQ6AEwCA#v=onepage&q=matching%20top%20and%20bottom%20swage&f=false Refer to page 373, figure 3. it's picture "e" . It's gives a pretty good explanation of how the hardy tool is used.
  5. My knowledge about anvils is limited. From the castings marks front and back, this anvil appears to be "cast". I also see no indication of a top plate having been forge welded onto it. With the exception of the number "1" stamped into the one side, there are no markings anywhere. The anvil does have good rebound, around 75-80%, and rings when struck, though not as high pitched as say a Peter Wright. I suspect the anvil is American made and at least 70 years old, maybe older. Was there an American company that made 100% cast steel anvils? My research turned up Trenton anvils usually have a thinner heel like this one does, but that's about all I could find. While I'm at it, any idea what caused the bottom of the hardy hole (see picture 5) to be pushed out? Could this be a casting defect, making the anvil a second and therefore not marked? Any input is appreciated.
  6. Timothy Miller, I'm not that familiar with star drill swages. I assumed they were shaped like the end of the star drill itself. How would the tool that I have be used to straighten or sharpen a star drill? Any pictures or other information would be appreciated. Thanks, Alan.
  7. John B, I stand corrected! Check out the link Harri posted. Thanks, Harrii, for putting this one to bed for us!
  8. Foot powered sewing machines were common in their day, but I'm not sure there was ever a hand crank sewing machine.
  9. I've no idea what the tool was used for, but I did find the handle interesting. First off, the handle can pivot, and also it is offset (not straight). It would appear when the handle is as shown in the photos, when turning it would have more torque. Now flip the handle 180 degrees and when turned would it not be easier to rotate faster, but with less torque? The more I look at it I think the offset in the handle is merely so it doesn't hit the raised part of the smaller gear thingy as it turns. The prong thingy attached to the smaller gear looks to be replaceable. Maybe that was so different sized prong thingies could be used. All that being said, I think the machine was used to cut or scribe a hole in some sort of dense material such as glass or light gauge metal, etc. I could also be dead wrong!
  10. The slots are 9/16 inches deep. They are 3/16, 1/4 and 3/8 inches wide. Any help would be appreciated. Alan
  11. @ Marksnagel, "Either way, you got a steel. Pun intended." Now that made me laugh!
  12. Jim Coke and Socal Dave, I'm not familiar with the making of collars or even what they are. Could you walk me through it? I do appreciate your input. Alan Steve Sells, an interesting idea, and it certainly would work for making offsets. Thanks, Alan.
  13. Yes, those square posts have me scratching my head as well!