Irondragon Forge ClayWorks

The other thing I would do is reroute the hose between the burners to behind the legs or make a sheet metal shield to protect the hose from dropped hot steel. Hot steel & rubber hose don't play well together.

That came out really nice, I bet he will love it.

Well said Frosty.

Good call, sure fooled me. BTW... Welcome to IFI, have you read this yet? It will help getting the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST

I would if one nut is good two are better. Of course my wife claims I over build everything.

I carried about 700 pounds of sucker rod (cut into pieces) in my Honda Civic. I think the front wheels were only on the ground about half the time.

I don't do anything with youtube but watch occasional videos. The link idea comes from here when I see the link I decide to watch or not. Someone who is more tech savvy than I will probably answer though.

It looks good but a mite tall, unless it's just the camera angle. Is there something below the anvil to stop tools or stock from falling all the way to the bottom past the 4X4? That's the only reason I can see to add sand.

Long long ago before I had a pick up I had to carry some long stock with my Blazer. I laid it on the ground, pulled over the stock and strapped it up to the front & rear bumpers. Put big red flags on both ends so no one would run into it. Quite a sight going down the road and probably lucky no police saw me.

Not a silly question at all. Try a google search for coal suppliers in your area. If you can find bituminous coal which is the best IMHO, the other type is anthracite which is hard coal and trickier to keep lit but Tractor supply does handle it (usually). You can also use hardwood lump charcoal (not BBQ briquets) most stores carry it like Walmart or here our supermarkets. There is a good thread here about building & maintaining the fire. https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/30887-forges-and-fires/

I think that would be no problem. I've seen it done.

I'd be all over it at $20 like others have said soaking it in a 50/50 mix of trans fluid & acetone will get it going. Also soak the pivot point of the moveable jaw it's probably frozen too. It will be easy to make an extension for the leg that someone cut off, they must have had it mounted low to do some heavy striking on it.

The best way is to post them to Youtube then post a link, that way folks can click on the link if they want to view the video.

We won't remember this once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show your location. You might do a search for Mark Krause hammer whisperer, he is expert in power hammers and he may be able to help.

A die grinder should take care of that in short order.

Welcome to IFI, have you read this yet? READ THIS FIRST Can't help with the cable Id, in my part of the world, haven't heard of post tension cable. Maybe let us know what it is used for & where in the world it's located.

I love the sign Peppie has on his press.

This forum does allow selling in the Tailgating section.

It looks like an early Forgemaster or Hypona forge to me. One of our Farriers will probably have more ideas.

I would use the washer you have, it will form itself to the screw & jaw after a while.

Post it up in the Tailgating section with what you think its worth or OBO, you never know until you try.

Some burners require some secondary air for complete combustion, some don't. The only way to tell is to try it both ways. The Gaco kiln burner we used is happy with a lot of secondary air, without it the forge runs rich.

I doubt it is spring steel, looks like a crank handle for raising and lowering the trailer front support wheels. It is still useful though should make good punches & drifts, kinda small for hammers.

For that stock I would use a hand hacksaw.

Welcome Trevor, we won't remember your location once leaving this post, hence the suggestion to edit your profile to show it. This thread will help getting the best out of the forum. READ THIS FIRST