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I Forge Iron


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    Asheville, NC

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  1. Figured I'd update this since it's a somewhat common question. I decided to build a 'temporary' (temporary, in that it isn't attached to the house and can be moved) enclosure of sorts using 5/8 drywall panels, 2x4 8x8ft studs, and Rockwool batts. The process was a lot easier than I anticipated and took almost no time at all to get them stood up. The biggest challenge was finding Rockwool in small quantities, places like Lowes and Home Depot wanted large ($1200+) orders. I managed to find a vendor online (Acoustimac) that carried it in smaller quantities in the dimensions I was after (48x
  2. I think I'm putting the enclosure on hold for now in favor of addressing the echo in the garage. Interestingly, the sound coming from the hammer is less of a thump and more of a sharp "twang", so a much sharper, less dense sounding noise. From what I understand, bass noise is really difficult to mitigate, but the others can be reduced, I may be wrong though. The issue is my garage has no insulation in it and the sound just echos, which I think makes it reverberate worse. Even clapping your hands is loud and echos through it. I'm hanging some acoustic paneling in the garage in spots where
  3. I have an Anyang 55 and live in a residential area, I'm looking to reduce the noise somewhat to avoid neighbor complaints. We have a lot of foliage around our house and haven't had any issues so far, but I'd prefer to prevent complaints rather than respond. I also worry about it just from not being disruptive and would rather work without being concerned about bothering people. I evaluated having our shop insulated in various ways and everything I found indicated it wouldn't be very effective without stripping out the drywall. I measure ~85-87db outside our door with everything closed (I have
  4. I considered trying this, but was concerned blocking the back off would result in some back pressure that would disrupt the vortex inside. There is a bit of air that exits the rear of the forge, but I'll give it a shot and report back when I get a chance. Anecdotally, yes, it seemed lower for the temps I was trying to work at. I didn't really go to the point of trying to measure actual usage, but it seemed like I was able to run longer forging sessions without refilling the tank. It was less "I can't figure it out", more "This is something to consider if you are buying it". It
  5. One thing I meant to add is that the forge heats much more evenly with the doors closed. It, of course, gets a lot hotter, so you won't be able to use this to soak, but it does make it easier to get a more even heat across the work piece. There were a few times I did this with rods and just kept the door shut, the entire rod came out roughly the same color. If you require even heat on your work piece, it's basically required to keep both doors shut. I'd also add that there is a 'shelf' of sorts by the door. Unlike the Chile, there is an elevated piece of fire brick on either end, which is
  6. I previously wrote a review of the NC Knifemaker forge, thought I'd cover the Graham I've been using, as well. Construction The forge has a round exterior and interior chamber. A friend of mine commented it 'looks like a coffee can forge', but the fit/finish are obviously better, that's just a comment on it's shape. The stainless legs are sharp and, unfortunately, have no way to bolt the forge down. There is a sliding rest, which is a nice feature, although it looks a little spindly at first glance. I was worried it would flex or bend under heavier bars, li
  7. I see a lot of folks asking about this forge, so I thought I'd share my impressions of it, since there isn't a lot of conclusive information on it. A bit of background...I'm fairly new to forging, I've been at it about 6 months and have forged maybe around 15-20 knives total. All but 3 were in the Knifemaker forge. I ran the forge atop a NC tool stand and connected to both a 25lb and 40lb tank (meaning I tried both, not connected them both at the same time). Construction The forge itself is fairly heavy and sturdy feeling. It isn't super easy to move around, but I don't think
  8. Thanks for the info. TBH hearing the Anyang on videos was a little concerning, it sounds like a higher frequency, 'sharper' noise than the heavier, duller thud of the 65, but cameras pick up noise differently and it's never a good indicator. I'd prefer the smaller size and footprint of the 33, it would also avoid my having to remove the cylinder like I would with the 65, to get it past my door. The foundation is a concern with both hammers. I spoke with both companies, Anyang indicated that 33 owners have done all sorts of things from leaving on the pallet to bedding it on a rubber mat,
  9. I'm looking at picking up a smaller power hammer pretty soon, primarily for forging knives. I've looked at a few options and the Anyang 33 and Blu 65 both seem like the most appealing for my shop size and what I'm doing. The 65 is a bit on the big side for what I'm doing, but Big Blu is local to me and the price is really close, I also figured going a bit larger wouldn't be the worst thing in the world. My compressor can handle the 65 fine. Has anyone used both of these hammers and can offer some comparisons between the two? I'm particularly curious about the noise differences. I am
  10. I've seen a few folks blocking the rear opening of their Chile forge with firebrick or insulation. Has anyone done this and found if it causes any issues with the forge or burners?
  11. That's something I hadn't considered, I'll look into that. Thanks. I had considered extending the hood itself, but it would be a lot of work and I am not sure it's something I wanted to mess with. My current setup is somewhat temporary, as I'm waiting on my Chile forge to be completed and sent out in the next week or two. After that, I plan on creating a more permanent setup for that forge, where my current forge will remain a bit more portable, as it's easier to move around and is more versatile due to it's smaller size.
  12. I forge in a garage, but my forge is on the opposite side of the garage as the door, so I needed some way to capture heat/fumes and push them out. I bought a glass blower's ventilation hood from Griffin Glass along with a 1000cfm fan. The hood is just long enough to capture the fumes, but in retrospect, I wish I had gone with the larger hood, because the smaller hood won't capture it from both sides of the forge if the rear door is opened, so I have to move it outside if I'm going to open the back up. My goal was to run the forge with the garage door closed to damp noise down, but prevent heat
  13. I had another company come out and they said they'd run the lines. Apparently they've done it before and it's not against code. The previous guy before said he wasn't 100% sure but would check and get back with me. He never did. At any rate, I scheduled an install with them. The pipe I put together before, they are just going to re-use for the installation. I feel better about this situation, mainly because it makes refills easier and less frequent, but it also eliminates the need for a portable tank and keeps the majority of the pipe outside of the garage.
  14. I checked my policy and they don't say anything about being up to code, but they do mention not being covered for poor workmanship/repairs/etc. That seems kindof arbitrary, but I could see them making the case that because I installed the piping, it falls under that category even if it doesn't leak and is done up to par. I've done a lot of work (incl propane) on boats and I know how most people do things, so I can't necessarily fault them if they take that approach.
  15. Yea, I understand the liability concerns. TBH I didn't think this would be that big of a deal, I was more concerned about the safety of it, but didn't consider what would be involved with code. I have a hard time believing a flexible line out the window complies with code either, so I may just be screwed either way. It looks like NFPA 3-2.8(c) indicates you can pipe up to 20psi into a building (exceptions for industrial purposes). NC code defers to NFPA 58 for pressures over 5psi provided the pipe is rated at pressures > 20psi, which this pipe is. I won't be exceeding 10, so I should
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