JHCC

It has its own thread.

Side-blast JABOD.

Speaking on behalf of the anthracite burners, I would agree that bituminous would be easier for a beginner. It's what I used when I started, and it's great stuff. Just make sure that you have a good way of pulling off the smoke: the one way anthracite is definitely superior is how much cleaner it burns.

There are a couple of threads on IFI about this. If you do a web search with "iforgeiron.com" as one of your search terms (in this case, I'd suggest "farrier" "nipper" and "tongs" as well), you can probably find what you need.

Didn't get into the shop today, but since I'm in Philadelphia on a business trip, I made a pilgrimage to the former site (top) of Samuel Yellin's old shop (bottom). (photo source)

One of the biggest problems with using rebar for smithing projects is the texture: you're going to be putting in a lot of extra work to smooth out all those bumps and ridges. You can save yourself a lot of unnecessary effort by starting with stock of the right size and texture. Many steel suppliers will sell you their extra cut-off pieces (called "drops") at a discount. Of course, if you incorporate that texture into your design, it can be kind of cool. The college where I work just had a major building project, and the construction company let me salvage the extra bits of steel. I forged one piece of rebar into a coiled-up rattlesnake as a thank-you to the company, and made another into a bottle opener as a farewell gift to our outgoing president.

Time, 'twill tell.

Keith Moon springs to mind.

Just embroidering an otherwise-unremarkable discussion.

Yes, but it's unintelligible: too much hemming and hawing.

Would that be a bias crime?

You may not be able to do this if you're adding files from your smartphone. In that case, add the photos, and then go back to your post from your desktop computer within the one-hour editing window, click <edit>, and doubleclick on each photo to resize it.

The key word there being UNUSED.

So it seams.

"One man's box of dirt is another man's exciting entry into blacksmithing." -- @Andrew Collington

That'll leave them in stitches.

One detail about YouTube that a lot of folks don't know: If you're watching an instructional video (especially a good one, like this), you can go to the settings icon (little gear-shape at the bottom of the screen) and change the speed to 0.25, 0.5, or 0.75. You can pick up a lot of details that you might miss at full speed.

No, that's why my slack tub is in a Faraday cage.

A similar effect can be created by dissolving rust in white vinegar and then applying the resulting liquid to a piece of oak. This is the main part of creating a traditional ebonized finish.

Simple answer: Leather is made with tannic acid, tannic acid is corrosive.

Don't know many fundraisers, do you?

Something Jennifer (@jplservicesinc) said about turning her own anvil to put the horn on the right got me thinking. Also, I realized that the left-hand edge (looking from heel to horn) was in much better shape than the right, so shifting the anvil this way puts that on the far side where it will get more use. In practice, it gave me better access to the tip of the horn for shaping the rings on the bottle openers.

No, right-handed.

Well, more precisely, their factory owners aren't held to the same kind of health-and-safety regulations as ours. That said, I entirely agree with Frosty and ThomasPowers that there are too many unknowns in your heater oil to risk using it as a quenchant. Canola oil is cheap, fryer oil is free, and manufactured quenching oils are easily obtained. Don't bother. (And that's the King of Unnecessary Salvage talking, so you know you'd better listen up.)

There will be ovens after the apocalypse?