JHCC

I just took a moment and did the math, and it's pretty interesting. First of all, most smiths aren't going to be able to buy bulk corn at commodity pricing. I did some quick Google-Fu and found a bulk feed supplier selling whole corn for $205/ton. Tractor Supply Company also carries 50 lb sacks for about $6.80. I just paid $12 each for three 50 lb bags of bituminous coal at Yoder's Blacksmith Supply. It's hard to get consistent numbers for bulk, but let's say $400/ton. Bituminous coal runs about 11,000-15,000 btu/lb. To keep the math simple, I went with 14,000; that would assume that coal has approximately twice the btu/lb as corn. If you divide and multiply all of that out, bulk feed corn and bulk bituminous are pretty close in btu/$ (68,293 and 70,000, respectively). In sacks, coal beats corn (58,333 vs 51,471), but it's still the same ballpark. Bulk coal is the clear winner, especially if you can get a better price ($350/ton brings the btu/$ to 80,000; $250/ton puts it at 112,000 -- which is exactly the same as commodity-priced corn). Of course, you do have to factor in shipping or delivery costs. There's a TSC right next to where I do a lot of my grocery shopping, while the only time I can get to the Amish place is on my way back from taking my daughter to or from college. Factor in the convenience, and that can bring those numbers closer together.

Nice looking setup. Looking forward to seeing more of your work. Now, get thee to the "Introduce Yourself" section and tell us who you are!

Interesting idea, but you're cluttering up the space on either side, reducing the clearance for moving your workpiece around.

Probably best to ask questions on the thread for the actual rule:

Newbies posting to ask for information is only frowned upon if it's clear that they haven't done their research first. Asking for help on a specific question and discussing how the information you've already found doesn't address it should demonstrate that you're willing to do your part of the work. This is addressed in the READ THIS FIRST post. If your comments have been edited for excessive quoting, you've probably gotten a warning about it from the moderators. Check your notifications.

I would recommend starting a new thread in the Solid Fuel Forges section, asking for recommendations on a firepot design. Give the graphic you have above and include the information you just posted. Most folks won't see the question, if it's buried here.

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"Optimum" is as much a function of what kind of work you're doing as it is of the kind of fuel you're using. Take some time to read over the posts in the Solid Fuel Forges section, and proceed accordingly. One good option for you would be to start with a JABOD forge and use that to learn what size firepot will be best for your work.

Should be fine. Just shape the fill to be more of a tall trench than a wide bowl.

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Welcome to IFI! If you haven't yet, please READ THIS FIRST!!!

Tell me about it. It was in single digits over the weekend, and I had to empty the water from my slack tub and bosh to keep them from freezing. Now, it's forty degrees warmer and bucketing rain.

pnut, sounds like you're on the right track. Keep us posted, and show us photos!

That is correct, but the good news is, if you do have it sticking out of the dirt, it will burn back all by itself! Actually, even when it's insulated by the dirt, the tuyere in a JABOD can burn at the very end anyway. The heavier the pipe, the less this is a problem. Just be prepared to replace the pipe occasionally. Some folks start with a longer pipe and advance it incrementally as it burns back.

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Toothpicks. (Drawing out may take some time.)

In the history of technology, abrasion predates metalwork.

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Wow.

They're all being shipped to a secret facility deep under the Rocky Mountains, where a splinter group of the Worshipful Company of Blacksmiths plots their post-apocalyptic takeover.

Since you're only accessing the forge from the front, have the two front legs in line with (or slightly forward of) the front of the forge and splayed widely out to the sides, and then have one leg projecting some way out the back. The front legs will keep the forge from tilting to the side, and a sandbag or a stake on the back leg will keep it from tilting forward.

Some kind of flameproof container to catch spills and overflow is also a good idea.

The most basic rule about quenchant is that too much is better than too little.

Coal!

Mousehole Forge started as a lead smelting operation in 1628. Anvil manufacturing there started some time in the 18th century under the ownership of John Cockshutt. The Mousehole anvils we all know and love (aka The Undisputed King of Anvils) were mostly produced after the Armitage family took ownership of the company in 1820.