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I Forge Iron


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About theimi

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  • Location
    South Africa


  • Location
    cape town
  • Occupation
    artist (blacksmith)

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  1. Moving from Australia to South Africa? Most folks would be happy if they could go the other way around... Hello from another Someerset/W blacksmith...
  2. You guys have seen that gearwheel in the right hand corner in the first video? Is this from his Nazel around the corner?
  3. 100%. I'm 15 years in business and never owned a real anvil ;-). If I really need something like an anvil horn I make my own hardy tools.
  4. I know this is an old thread but anyway, for every South African looking for insulation materials this could be useful information (I'm wondering that nobody mentioned this company as they are the place to go in South Africa) keramicalia.co.za the general purpose material for gas forges would be the "Hollocast" range, for standard forges Hollocast 1. Affordable and easy to use. I have no advantage advertising for this company, I'm only a highly satisfied customer.
  5. That's a different topic. Customers pay for the end product, they don't pay me for a few extra hours because I had to avoid a grinder as all those blacksmiths did it without before it was invented
  6. I think they hadn't to compete with cheap welding "wrought iron" shops on every corner and cheap mass imported Chinese junk....
  7. Thanks for the answers guys. Sometimes there is no other possibility than using the grinder even if I try to avoid it. Ok, in any case you can start from scratch and make a completely new part , but that's not really economical... I realized there are many factors which affects the development of fire scale. surface texture, smoothness and - of course - time. The funny thing is whenever I put the part under the (power) hammer the scale develops much easier even if the part is not that hot and was in the forge for a short time only... something I don't have an explanation for and that
  8. Yeah, of course, that's the problem ;-) I think I will make some pics tomorrow...
  9. Hello guys, wasn't there for a very looong time (years!, sorry for that) but if one has a blacksmithing related question this forum is the way to go! I'm doing a lot of work in stainless at the moment because my customers like the 'bare' steel finish without rust. So the fire scale it develops during forging is a necessary feature in my work as it looks as "normal" mild steel. What I don't really understand is how and when the scale develops (and if not, why!!). After doing welds (sometimes) or after working with the grinder I often have the problem to get the scale back on the
  10. It's indeed a PID but I'm using the alarm relais outputs, only. Of course the PID is able to do the PWM but how would you use it to control mechanical valves? Does there exist electronical controllable (needle) valves which can use the PWM output directly? I think I will need a component between the PWM out and a motor valve and I'm planning to use an arduino therefor as I've got some lying around and doing nothing :-)
  11. Thanks for all the information :-) I use a temperature control as described by Buzzkill in his first reply for a long time already (idle pathway and heating pathway) and it works perfectly for all normal forging operations. The disadvantage is, as soon as it reaches the specified temp the PID switches into idle mode and the temperature goes down instantly for at least 50...100 deg celsius, the PID switches into heating immediately again, and so on But now I would like to have something with a more stable temp for different special uses (making mokume for example). It should not be to
  12. Hi guys, wasn't there for a long time, hope everybody is fine I'm running a blower operated gas(lpg) forge. I've got a pressure regulator at the tank and I use a needle valve and an air regulator to control my flame (in difference to most other folks I do not use a valve for the air but regulate the speed of my blower which works really nice for me.) I'm busy building an electronic temperature control for my forges and what keeps me awake at night is the following problem: If I would like to have a really low temperature I have two possiblities: 1) I crank down the p
  13. Initial draw, yes. But that's only initial E motors are highly efficient. But anyway, not important for a home shop grinder, will never pop the breaker. I pop sometimes (not often) the breaker when starting a 3kW (one phase) motor for my hydraulic press.
  14. jaaa, but I think that's not so important when building a belt grinder for home shop use. And as far as I know I think you are wrong. Electrical motors are really efficient machines with efficiencies of >80% for smaller motors (1kW) up to >90% for high power motors (100kW) So if you want 0.5kW output you need 0.625kW input Useful for calculations http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/electrical-motor-efficiency-d_655.html
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