J.P. Hall

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About J.P. Hall

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    Orange County, NY

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  1. I like that idea quite a bit. I was thinking a generally thin oil like mineral or regular linseed would soak up better, but it would probably drop out almost as fast as it soaked in. I think I'll go with a thinned BLO like you suggested, and maybe something thicker to seal the top. I also really like the nuts idea. I could probably use them after just to keep it out of any puddles too (or pea gravel or whatever) not as absorbent as sand, but small enough to help settle and even out unevenness between the stump and stone, and not too compressible.
  2. I'm not too concerned about the footing. It's on a flat stone about 6ft wide and 4-6" thick on top of compacted soil and pea gravel. My main worry is rainwater puddling on the stone and getting soaked through the base of the oak.
  3. Something else I've seen is "shou sugi ban", scorching wood to prevent rotting and deter insects in Japanese timber framing and siding. I'm hoping that would help in addition to a sealant. I'll steer clear of anything too harsh because there's a fair amount of groundwater that flows through my area and I'd hate to leach into it. I looked into the wood glue sealant a bit more and it seems pretty effective. It might be easier to seal over the large pores than to saturate everything with oil It's sitting on a pretty hefty paving stone and I leave a tarp on the anvil so there isn't a ton at stake. The old stand made from 4x4s has held up decently over a year or two.
  4. I recently came into possession of a large section of oak trunk to use as an anvil stand. I'm not sure of the species but it's definitely not white oak, so it will most likely suck up water from my outdoor work area. What would be the best option to protect it from the elements? I'm debating between linseed oil, paint, and end grain sealer used for drying lumber (some people even seal end grain with wood glue). The diameter of the trunk is 27" at the narrowest, so I'll have fresh dry wood once I trim it down a bit. I'm thinking 16-18" square for my 130lb Fisher.
  5. Great info. I have a natural coticule that I use for sharpening, if it breaks or becomes unusable for that then I may try using it for polishing.
  6. Beautiful polish. I'm sure you can't get *exactly* the same effect with conventional abrasives, but do you think something more cost effective like EDM stones could give something similar (provided they come in high enough grits)? I'm also curious if this is purely polish or if you used any etching.
  7. Thanks guys. Slag, the thickness was necessary because the hole on the female bolt doesn't extend close enough to the head. I'm going to find or make something that will give proper clearance. I have a hard time buffing wood with compound. I may be using too much, but it usually seems to smear some residue. I've tried using less, but it doesn't seem to be enough to really do anything. I'm fairly certain the wood is Ipe. It's a tropical hardwood used in similar applications as teak. Got it from the scrap bin at a local stair company. I did notice a small crack in the handle near the bolster, probably from the chop test. If the end cap isn't really cranked down, there is a small bit of vertical play at the bolster. It's also expanded slightly hirizontally just enough to feel relative to the bolster. There isn't a visible step at all but it irks me. I've since bedded the tang, and will most likely do a full-on epoxy job for the next one. excessive spacing removed
  8. A couple of firsts on this one: -80CrV2: hardened well in canola oil, though the reputation for a thick decarb layer is true. The edge is thickest at the heel and tip, but all sections shave after chopping through 8" of 1" pine and should be like new with some stropping. -Broaching: made one from a screwdriver and it worked really well for getting a precise fit. -Threaded tang: decided to give it a go for simplifying glue-up, but the fit was good enough that I left it without epoxy. There was a couple thousandths of movement between the bolster and handle, so I think I'll go back and bed the tang with epoxy to be safe. -Sculpted handle: I don't think I quite nailed it, but it's way better than I expected. Shaped entirely on the grinder up to 220, hand sanded at 400, and buffed with beeswax. I think the brass end cap is pretty tacky, but the female bolt(?) doesn't have a through-hole so I needed a spacer. I'll most likely replace it with some different hardware. The 600 grit satin finish looked really nice until I scratched it right up with the chopping test. The plunges also got pretty washed out, but overall this was a big improvement for me. I'm keeping it for myself for R&D purposes.
  9. Aging has its benefits. For example, I used to be terribly indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.
  10. Great info, guys, thanks. I do like the suggestion of having children sort the coal , but I agree with George. Although, some people have asked to take clinkers home as souvenirs when I explain what they are and why I need to take some time to clean out the fire. Nobody's offered to take the pile of them sitting out back when I mention it though. I have debated talking to the museum about possibly switching to charcoal, but I would prefer a side blast instead of the bottom that we have. It would definitely cost more, but I wonder if there are any bulk charcoal suppliers. I'm not sure I'd have the time to make my own, either.
  11. Thanks for the suggestions. I may try out separating the stones out with water. The reason I thought the stones contributed to the clinker was that there appeared to be some partially molten rocks that I pulled out with the clinker. I couldn't tell if it was just the surface, or if it had been melting substantially. I also couldn't tell what type of rocks they were.
  12. Hi all, I've been having some trouble lately with stones mixed in with coal. The museum I forge at gets bituminous "blacksmithing" coal from Cornwall Coal in Cornwall, NY. The coal itself isn't terrible, a good bit of ash, but not unusable. The problem is that there are a fair amount of stones mixed in. The large ones (1/4 fist size) aren't too difficult to pick out based on texture and density, but I'm sure there are smaller ones that blend right in. In a ~4 hour forging session this past weekend, there were well over a half dozen clinkers to dig out with most being at least fist sized. There was no flux or burned steel in the fire, and the cast iron firepot was cleaned out well before use. I rebuilt the fire two or three times, and often when I started with green coal there was a clinker by the time the whole fire coked over. More than once I noticed as many as one or two stones per scoop of coal. Does anyone else using this supplier have the same issue? Is there any better way of sorting the coal than picking through each scoopful? Are there any better suppliers in the Orange County NY/Hudson Valley area? The next closest supplier is Tri-County Coal about an hour away, which I haven't found much information about.
  13. I'm imagining the "U" of the handle resting in the palm, with two fingers around the narrow portion -- think of making the Spiderman gesture -- leaving the thumb and index finger for making a pinch grip on the blade. I wonder if this would lend itself to long push or pull cuts for slicing large pieces of meat
  14. I came across this post from Dan Prendergast about "glazing wheels": https://www.instagram.com/p/B0Bpd0ZHucl/ In his words, I tried researching the term, and I did find a greaseless finishing compound that is abrasive grain suspended in hide glue, to be used like buffing rouge. Does anybody have experience with this? I'd be interested in trying it out, I'd probably want some sort of guard around the wheel though.
  15. Thank you. I realized too late that I hadn't stamped it, but I suppose I could have etched the finished product. Oh well.