J.P. Hall

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About J.P. Hall

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    Orange County, NY

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  1. Great info. I have a natural coticule that I use for sharpening, if it breaks or becomes unusable for that then I may try using it for polishing.
  2. Beautiful polish. I'm sure you can't get *exactly* the same effect with conventional abrasives, but do you think something more cost effective like EDM stones could give something similar (provided they come in high enough grits)? I'm also curious if this is purely polish or if you used any etching.
  3. Thanks guys. Slag, the thickness was necessary because the hole on the female bolt doesn't extend close enough to the head. I'm going to find or make something that will give proper clearance. I have a hard time buffing wood with compound. I may be using too much, but it usually seems to smear some residue. I've tried using less, but it doesn't seem to be enough to really do anything. I'm fairly certain the wood is Ipe. It's a tropical hardwood used in similar applications as teak. Got it from the scrap bin at a local stair company. I did notice a small crack in the handle near the bolster, probably from the chop test. If the end cap isn't really cranked down, there is a small bit of vertical play at the bolster. It's also expanded slightly hirizontally just enough to feel relative to the bolster. There isn't a visible step at all but it irks me. I've since bedded the tang, and will most likely do a full-on epoxy job for the next one. excessive spacing removed
  4. A couple of firsts on this one: -80CrV2: hardened well in canola oil, though the reputation for a thick decarb layer is true. The edge is thickest at the heel and tip, but all sections shave after chopping through 8" of 1" pine and should be like new with some stropping. -Broaching: made one from a screwdriver and it worked really well for getting a precise fit. -Threaded tang: decided to give it a go for simplifying glue-up, but the fit was good enough that I left it without epoxy. There was a couple thousandths of movement between the bolster and handle, so I think I'll go back and bed the tang with epoxy to be safe. -Sculpted handle: I don't think I quite nailed it, but it's way better than I expected. Shaped entirely on the grinder up to 220, hand sanded at 400, and buffed with beeswax. I think the brass end cap is pretty tacky, but the female bolt(?) doesn't have a through-hole so I needed a spacer. I'll most likely replace it with some different hardware. The 600 grit satin finish looked really nice until I scratched it right up with the chopping test. The plunges also got pretty washed out, but overall this was a big improvement for me. I'm keeping it for myself for R&D purposes.
  5. Aging has its benefits. For example, I used to be terribly indecisive, but now I'm not so sure.
  6. Great info, guys, thanks. I do like the suggestion of having children sort the coal , but I agree with George. Although, some people have asked to take clinkers home as souvenirs when I explain what they are and why I need to take some time to clean out the fire. Nobody's offered to take the pile of them sitting out back when I mention it though. I have debated talking to the museum about possibly switching to charcoal, but I would prefer a side blast instead of the bottom that we have. It would definitely cost more, but I wonder if there are any bulk charcoal suppliers. I'm not sure I'd have the time to make my own, either.
  7. Thanks for the suggestions. I may try out separating the stones out with water. The reason I thought the stones contributed to the clinker was that there appeared to be some partially molten rocks that I pulled out with the clinker. I couldn't tell if it was just the surface, or if it had been melting substantially. I also couldn't tell what type of rocks they were.
  8. Hi all, I've been having some trouble lately with stones mixed in with coal. The museum I forge at gets bituminous "blacksmithing" coal from Cornwall Coal in Cornwall, NY. The coal itself isn't terrible, a good bit of ash, but not unusable. The problem is that there are a fair amount of stones mixed in. The large ones (1/4 fist size) aren't too difficult to pick out based on texture and density, but I'm sure there are smaller ones that blend right in. In a ~4 hour forging session this past weekend, there were well over a half dozen clinkers to dig out with most being at least fist sized. There was no flux or burned steel in the fire, and the cast iron firepot was cleaned out well before use. I rebuilt the fire two or three times, and often when I started with green coal there was a clinker by the time the whole fire coked over. More than once I noticed as many as one or two stones per scoop of coal. Does anyone else using this supplier have the same issue? Is there any better way of sorting the coal than picking through each scoopful? Are there any better suppliers in the Orange County NY/Hudson Valley area? The next closest supplier is Tri-County Coal about an hour away, which I haven't found much information about.
  9. I'm imagining the "U" of the handle resting in the palm, with two fingers around the narrow portion -- think of making the Spiderman gesture -- leaving the thumb and index finger for making a pinch grip on the blade. I wonder if this would lend itself to long push or pull cuts for slicing large pieces of meat
  10. I came across this post from Dan Prendergast about "glazing wheels": https://www.instagram.com/p/B0Bpd0ZHucl/ In his words, I tried researching the term, and I did find a greaseless finishing compound that is abrasive grain suspended in hide glue, to be used like buffing rouge. Does anybody have experience with this? I'd be interested in trying it out, I'd probably want some sort of guard around the wheel though.
  11. Thank you. I realized too late that I hadn't stamped it, but I suppose I could have etched the finished product. Oh well.
  12. This is the first *forged* knife I've actually completed. I think it would be classified as a gyuto. 6" double bevel in 1084, brass, and maple. It took much longer than anticipated, mostly because I found an auto-hamon while finish grinding. I went back to the grinder a couple times to thin it out some more, and I experimented with a bunch of different abrasives, which I documented in another thread. Being 1084, the hamon itself is pretty plain but there's some interesting alloy banding (I think) that started to show. Not perfect and there are some blemishes that happened after finishing, but I'm satisfied with it how it cuts and it taught me a lot about grinding, finishing, and geometry. Somebody more artistically inclined than myself took some photos:
  13. Heat treat info for Aogami 2 from Hitachi's site: Standard Heat Treatment temperature ( centigrade ) Annealing 750-780 Slow cooling Quenching 780- 830 Water cooling (Oil cooling) Tempering 160-230 Air-cooling Delivery hardness ( HBW ) 229 or under Hardening hardness ( HRC ) 60 over Aogami 1: Annealing 750-780 Slow cooling Quenching 780- 830 Water cooling (Oil cooling) Tempering 160-230 Air-cooling Delivery hardness ( HBW ) 229 or under Hardening hardness ( HRC ) 60 over Aogami Super: Annealing 750-780 Slow cooling Quenching 780- 830 Water cooling (Oil cooling) Tempering 160-230 Air-cooling Delivery hardness ( HBW ) 229 or under Hardening hardness ( HRC ) 60 over All identical heat treat schedules per the manufacturer. These do seem fairly loose. Having only a minimum hardened HRC, and as "low" as 60 given their reputation is interesting, although I'm used to Kevin Cashen's heat treat info for common steels on his site. I believe "slow cooling" is a fairly technical term. That said, I only have a gas forge available to heat treat so this is plenty of information for me, should I ever get some of this in my hands. I am curious of a few things: Is there a minimum forging temp? Is there an optimal normalizing temp that isn't the annealing or quenching temp? And is the listed quenching temp ideal for all three? The spec for carbon content is a .1% range for each, but it varies between varieties. Super is 1.4-1.5% and 1 is 1.25-1.35% Between this and alloying elements, I'd imagine that some of the temperatures would vary at least slightly. Although, they may operate under a totally different model. Since they cater heavily to domestic knifemakers and toolmakers, I wonder if they just manufacture to tight and consistent specs, and leave the heat treat to the customers. If most of these steel go to that sort of user, I can understand not needing heat treat info as detailed as what other industries would require.
  14. Thank you for the information. If anybody is looking up heat treat info, [it is available on the Hitachi website]. [Commercial link removed would have been better to just tell us the unfirmation] There is also info for aogami 1 and aogami super under the "YSS" tab on the left.
  15. Say what you want, previous iterations don't hold a candle to that last attempt.