J.P. Hall

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    Orange County, NY

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  1. J.P. Hall

    Diamond stone hand sanding

    DMT seems to be the way to go. They're monocrystalline, and from what I've researched the majority of the diamond is below the surface of the nickel. Of all the diamond and bonding types, I'd imagine this would be the most durable. Another hope is that they would last longer hand sanding because of the increased contact area, and thus decreased pressure on individual diamonds compared to sharpening a knife edge. I'm wonder how much people spend on sandpaper, and if these would be worth it even as a long-term consumable
  2. J.P. Hall

    Diamond stone hand sanding

    I'm currently finish grinding a 6" kitchen knife. I don't mind hand sanding itself, but I find that constantly changing paper gets old pretty quickly. Does anyone have experience using diamond stones for hand sanding? They're rigid and flat, and the a good quality stone shouldn't have any issue with the grit wearing out. They're available in a fairly wide range of grits as well. I haven't seen this discussed, and hopefully it would save a little time and money in the long run, if not just making it a little more pleasant. Decent sized stones would also serve double duty for sharpening. I'm considering getting a set of DMT "credit card" sharpeners to test with a rigid backing. A set of 3 grits (325, 600, 1200) is $25 on amazon. I don't expect that diamond stones would replace sandpaper entirely, but they may help - especially for those still improving their grinding for evening out bevels and getting a more uniform finish before moving on to paper.
  3. J.P. Hall

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    I'd say I also hate it, but I don't not do it enough to reliably compare.
  4. J.P. Hall

    What did you do in the shop today?

    There's always a relevant XKCD:
  5. J.P. Hall

    Naturally Aspirated Ribbon Burner. Photo heavy.

    At some point you need to team up with the guy prototyping burner intake heads with a 3d printer: https://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/61034-3d-printed-plastic-burner-experiments-photo-heavy/
  6. J.P. Hall

    First solo Tamahagane smelt

    I've never been too great at puns; I always just skate by. However this thread is a ray of sunshine.
  7. I've been practicing scarf welding semi-regularly and I've still got plenty of room for improvement. On 1/2" square, it took my body weight bending parallel to the plane of the weld (the way welded tongs are usually oriented) until the weld failed after bending a bit. Ideally a scarf weld should act like a homogeneous bar, but at what point would you call it good enough? Would you gauge by it holding, or looking like one piece? I have a lot of trouble blending the toe of the scarf, so any advice on that is appreciated. I recently tried "flicking" the molten scale and flux off the bars on the way to the anvil and it seemed to help, although I haven't seen many people do it. Does anybody else find it beneficial?
  8. J.P. Hall

    First hammer eye punch

    Tested it out yesterday and therr are a few things to iron out. I'd likento taper the eye a but more to get some grip on the handle, and also regrind the tip. The "crosshair" shape of the double ground point is slightly rotated around center. As a result it all looks square when starting a hole but then as the bulk of the punch makes its way through it gives the appearance that the punch is rotating theough the workpiece. All in all those are simple fixes though
  9. Never have I seen even anything so grossly over-engineered. Not even the most advanced propane forge I've seen has had half as much thought put into it. ITC100 in a solid fuel forge? really? It's beautiful and I love it. Could do with a PID and/or arduino or two though.
  10. J.P. Hall

    First hammer eye punch

    Haven't used it yet, but I'm eager to see how it differs from a hand slot punch. It seems pretty well seated on the handle so I may be overthinking it. I've got a hot cut with a much sloppier eye, which has held up fine albeit needing taps to seat the head more frequently. I don't know what size or alloy stock I'll be using this for so I hardened up to and including the eye, which got tempered past blue just in case it would run the risk of deforming under a heavy hammer (probably wouldn't anyway). It also got a healthy dose of thermal cycling. I guess if there's anything I should be worried about it's the striking end, which is soft, but there's not much I can do for that short of annealing.
  11. J.P. Hall

    My little forge

    Looks good; definitely gets hot. Your firepot seems to be on the large side. That amount of fuel doesn't quit reach level with the "table", meaning you'd have to angle stock down into the oxidizing zone of the fire to heat it. Two options to remedy this: 1) Use more fuel to pile up above the table (hearth? please correct me if there is a proper term), making a much larger fire, or 2) Resize your firepot to be smaller, allowing you to make a taller fire with less fuel, at the expense of having a smaller diameter fire. Without knowing what stock you're using, I can't give a perfect answer. I'm also assuming that your air supply is strong enough for option 1. Personally, I would prefer option 2 with one addition-- using some firebricks on the side of the fire allows you to pile more fuel vertically without burning more on the edge of the fire. Firebricks are great because they can be placed and rearranged into different configurations, and even removed, very easily, but any refractory material can work.
  12. Made my first handled punch from a big masonry chisel. If I were doing it again I'd start with heavier stock. I'm a little worried about the small cheeks getting enough friction on the handle and I need to regrind the point, but overall I'm pretty happy with it.