Daswulf

We all get called home when it is our time (whether our mortal selves understand or not) and the rest of us continue on our journey of learning and experiences in this world. They are in light, peace and Gods love. We will mourn them but we are all reunited eventually. I couldn't imagine such heartbreak.

I just got them so I'm in no rush to ultimately decide what I will do with them. A little more research will determine their fate. Some of the small ones that are empty might end up bells. I still have two bells that haven't sold yet. One from a tank and another aluminum one from a fire extinguisher. The aluminum one from the fire extinguisher with a wooden clapper has a nice deep soft tone. I would like to find more of those. I have thought of talking to someone at a fire extinguisher company that supplies and checks them, just haven't got around to it yet.

Got a call from a friend wanting to clear some scrap. Also had some out of date co2 bottles needing gone from her bar. Most of the co2 bottles are full. I know I could use them as shielding gas for welding so I might get a gauge to use them. Mainly was in it for the bottles themselves.

I agree and was thinking of a vacuum collection or at least a hood to suck out fumes and dust in a small area. Think of what all accumulated in the bigger area and condense that into a small area. Respirator And vent hood. If not also a vacuum collector under the grinder. Also, make the inside area flame proof or resistant. You don't want trapped in a small enclosed burning building. Think of safety for yourself in any way you can then google more you wouldn't think of. Might be able to mitigate the dust issue with just the things you would Need in an encolsed room without the enclosed room.

Terribly sad to hear such a tragedy. Prayers for Robb and Bunty and family and friends.

I am guilty of not mentioning conversions when I post for the most part. As was mentioned it is a courtesy of the poster or video creator. It Is easy enough to look up the conversions online or phone. But I applaud anyone taking the time to do so. I have many times looked up conversions as well as language translators when interested.

Pigsticker, if the cable is loose then it will want to fray at the ends with hammer blows even at forgewelding temps. . You could combat this with good forging technique but even with retwisting there will most likely be a bit more loss in material. It would be tricky and you would likely have to start just at the end getting it consolidated and twisting as you hammer. If you have problems using a wire wrap then you might not be at the level yet for the technique needed. Also it may be messier and add more inclusions you don't want. Do you have tongs to hold the stock as it is? Have you successfully welded cable yet? Sometimes we pay extra in the learning process. Either paying more for someone else to do a part, wasting fuel, time and materials in practicing or spending time or money learning new things to then go out and practice with the information then buy or build new tools we need for the trade. The Most expensive thing we can do is jump in uninformed and hurt ourselves, others or property. No time spent researching and learning more we are interested in is wasted time.

John, Goods is not misunderstanding me. Before his post Pigsticker asked about the idea of forgewelding the handle on. Goods was responding to that.

It may be different lengths in a gas forge, due to the dragons breath, vs. A solid fuel forge. I use a solid fuel forge and when I have forged cable I just make the handle long enough to manage the piece. A gas forge might heat the handle a little further back, not sure. Just make sure it is not too thin for a comfortable hold and doesn't bend too easily with the weight on the end when heated up.

As John stated, it isnt about good or bad alloy except in its intended use. As you previously stated you will be forge welding these into knife billets? Then the alloy doesn't matter as much for welding the ends. You could also tell the welder that it doesn't need to be pretty it just needs to hold the strands together. I couldn't guess what it would cost in your area, sorry. That is up to you to find and talk to a welder about. As mentioned the more you understand the process and can clearly convey what you need and intend to do with it the better. You might even want to cut some steel rod or rebar to have handles welded on to one end while they are welding. If it seems too pricy then it may be well worth looking into a welding course to learn about then purchase a welding machine yourself. Also as mentioned there Are other work arounds other than welding. Another option other than wire is to use hose clamps to keep the ends from fraying. Just know that the hose clamps will be consumables.

If you find a welder to ask, tell them you have "x" number of "y" diameter cable sections "z" long, and that you would like the ends welded to keep them from fraying. That will give them an understanding of what it would take them to do the job and give you a quote for a price. They might ask you what alloy they are.

I mean absolutely nothing rude by this but early off I was going to go into a lot of detail about welders and suggestions, but didn't have time to lay it all out. Right now I'm afraid to with how confused I am at the responses to others. My only advise is to read through the safety section here, then read about safety using electric tools and welders. I mean no disrespect by this post. Only safety oriented.

I still remember the smell of old electronics like old record players being used for the first time in forever after purchasing them for like 25cents at the lions club auctions. Also the smell of new cassettes and the smell of the early first cd's. It is weird having a smell memory as well, lol. Certain songs remind me of where I used to listen to them a lot like in a certain car I used to drive.

There was a point when I was younger where my guitar amp started picking up shortwave radio. It was really freaky at first. Something did end up going wrong with it and I got it fixed. No more phantom talking out of my amp after that.

My prayers for Sheila and Robert and their struggles. Such a good and genuinely kind couple. Robert has been through so much and has been so kind and outwardly supportive to others. They are on my list. I am so sorry to hear they are in a very rough time.

I don't know why, this made me think of inspector Kemp from Young Frankenstein.

Awesome progress Jennifer. Overkill can be a real good thing in preparing a shop like that. It is good to have the options instead of having to add later.

Upsetting the end a good bit might get you there.

Shop vacs will work better. Household vacuums could work but they aren't so much made for the heavy debris in a shop. As stated empty often and a filter sock if available is a good idea. As for brands or makers I would search reviews and see what is recommended most. I have a large craftsman shop vac and a smaller milwaukee battery vac that i use foe many applications. I have also used household vacuums that were headed to the trash, they just dont handle the larger debris as well but have served a bit of purpose before I scrapped them out for lack of real need. My shop mostly gets a broom and dustpan treatment. Vacuums found in the trash generally just need a good cleaning up. People can really lack on maintainence then pitch them out for lack of performance.

Praying for you Paul.

Where in the world are you located? Might save a small fortune in shipping and find someone local. Anything Iron is the easy part. Did you have something more specific in mind?

Either way the crosses are simple to make. The horse shoe thingy could definately use some context as to the use of it before a ton of guess work.

Crosses look to me to be pipe joined by an x union.

Nice work. Life happens. We get through it or we don't. Always good to hear back from members even if it has been a while.

Glad to see you back NS.