Daswulf

Larry, Frosty, Scott thanks. Got two coworker approved companies to call tomorrow to see about getting quotes on policies. Price of that will determine how I move forward. It is easy to stay at a shop I've been at for 11 years and do have good friends at but I'd never know that "what if" of working on the cars I am more passionate about. Or the possibilities of making new connections for other things in my life like forging and art. I can't take a step backwards on my compensation tho, I've worked hard to be where I am. On a positive note if I do make a leap and things didn't work out I'm sure I would always be welcomed back here.

Thanks George. I am not a veteran. My current job has a few guys who opted out of the shops health ins. and got plans of their own. The shop pays them a certain amount per month in the opt out. My first order of business this morning was to talk to them and get their opinions of their ins. I also got the number of the company they went through. Insurance is a big factor since I am covering the girls. Liz doesn't have healthcare through her current job so that isn't an option. I will be calling to see what my options are and what the cost will be before I make a decision. My kids well being comes first.

I am inside the shop pacing a little and debating. After about 25 years in the collision repair field with a bit of classic restoration experience, I decided to look around at some classic repair shops since classic and antique cars are more my passion and new stuff just brings me down with the direction it is going. Found a notable shop dealing in any manner of classics and applied to meet and see what they pay since I am doing ok where i am. Well I met with the gentleman of an owner and walked through. I could be a great asset to him but could he be an asset to me. Well, i was surprised by his offer to match my current pay. In hourly. There are some other bonuses but no healthcare. But can work 4 10's instead of 5 day. Also it is further away in the city so I really need to consider what is best. Will be debating and praying for guidance. A lot to consider. I am just rambling and debating a big possible decision.

Lol. That is the best dr. Script i have ever heard of. Funny that every time I see the doc, they ask if I exercise. I tell them i work an that is my exercise. They don't seem to get that my job is physically exerting and then forging on top of that on occasion.

Thanks Chenier!

I had talked with a machinist friend and while he could cut them it is tedious and not an easy thing to do. So I'd say it is the cost prohibitive problem. I swear I saw somewhere that sold acme threaded rod and nuts, but for the life of me now I can't remember where I saw that or heard about it. Obviously it would need mounted to setup the spring, but did it function at all? If the threads still work it would be easier to weld up the keyway on the box so it doesn't spin and use it as is till a better option presents itself. They sell rod for welding cast iron if that is what the box is made of. If you are worried about getting grindings/filings on the screw, your idea of welding a little pipe on the end would work. Or like the bits they had ducked in there, make a tin shield to shield the top of the screw. Or just brush it off during use. Threads can be worn and still function. It is only when it slips and won't tighten and clamp the workpiece that it is worn out.

Nice work Davor. I like the look. Second spar doesn't hurt it in my opinion.

He has that distressed look about him Scott. Fossils would work well with forging and welding abilities. You could experiment with forced rusting and clearcoat. In my experience it turns a very dark brown. Which would still be acceptable for a fossil look in my opinion. Dry uncoated rust would get that color but would be unprotected. Plus working with scrap different alloys will rust a bit different and might not be cohesive through the piece. To get that light brown color you might be better with paint.

Looks great! I'd never call that cheating. It is called making a quality durable product. The looks and strength are there. Les, nice work and love the sheaths. Best of luck with the surgery and beneficial recovery. Best of luck MacLeod. Just ease into it and walk before you run.

I have also been slowly changing from having the big 8' fluorescent fixtures to separate 4' led with the pull strings. I can choose the amount of light I need and no more warm up flickering time in the cold with the fluorescent fixtures. Plus it is way brighter "or darker" if I need. LED is definately the way to go and there are nice options depending on what you want to spend. Just replaced my kitchen light with a dimmable LED fixture. Man can it be Bright, or dim. Requires a special $25. Switch tho. Weigh your options vs. What you need. It ranges a bit but it all depends on what you need. The cheaper $25. 4' single units are working fine in my shop. To me they have been cheaper than buying another case or ballasts for the old units. I have two more 8' florescent units to replace with 4 more 4' led units.

Glad it made it. Will work on more once I get some past due commissions done. Sure hope some others get some work mailed in.

Sorry to hear that Scott. Been thinking of welding up a cage for mine out of rebar. Might add some cable to make it harder for them. Won't stop them if they have time but would sure slow them down or make em think of moving on to an easier target. A lot of times they cut more than just the pipe and do additional damage. Even worse it was on a borrowed vehicle. Hopefully insurance will cover it.

I sent out a package. I am sorry it got delayed getting sent out for a time due to life happening. I will see what else I can get done before I hear of a cutoff. Sorry it is taking a while. Then, Glenn was never in a hurry.

Merry Christmas All!

Nice looking space! Congrats Mothman.

Will you be EFI? (Electronic fuel injected) sorry just thinking of when that was actually a badging on cars. still praying you get through to a complete recovery. The road isn't always smooth or straight.

Rusted forge is fine to use. Rusted out takes longer but would not be fine, and is not likely to be a problem for you any time too soon. Then again I have not seen the details of your solid fuel forge. Is it home made from plans or just sort of like a design you saw? Or is it a purchased one? You mention bituminous coal so that is what I assume you are using. Yes it can get smokey starting out but once you get a good forging fire going and you have banked coal being raked in from the sides it usually isn't bad. I do tend to get sootier using my out door demo forge than I do my home forge with a hood and stack. A hood and stack can be added to an outdoor forge. Watering down the coal isnt just something you do. There is a reason. That is if your banked coal is dry and it is burning instead of coking. Just dowsing water over your coal fire is pointless and bad unless you are trying to put it out quick for some odd reason. To normally put it out, just cut the air supply and spread out the coals and it will be out and cold quicker than you might think. No problem with starting a charcoal fire and adding coal. But, the coal Will still smoke as it cokes down. Maybe a little at a time. No water In the fire pot. In fact leave it alone unless you see the coal outside the fire pot catching fire. Then just a sprinkle around the outside of the fire pot. I think you may have been smoking yourself out with the water. You do need to maintain a solid fuel fire. With coal when it has been burning, watch out for clinker buildup and poke it out and rake in the coal as needed from the edge of the pot where the coal has been heating and coking. Can we get better pics of your forge? This is a fraction of info i have in mind but will be a start for now.

You guys have me thinking of Art Bell with coast to Coast Am. While it was talk, it was entertaining, thought provoking and inspirational. I still can hear the intro tunes in my head now. Got me through many of late nights. Been reluctant to post on this but yeah, that made me. Other than that I will keep my yap shut because I could easily annoy with everything I find inspirational.

Looks nice. Gatta love that much space between the front and the engine. Makes me think of all the deer hits we've been getting where the rads were pushed into the engine. Love the good old beefy cars.

In autobody I see too many young techs that want to just learn the tricks without learning the concept first or having a full understanding of the process. Like the story of the old timer that gets paid well because he knows where when and how to tap the machine with the hammer to get it working right, not just that he taps it with a hammer.

You may not prefer that handle style, but I Really like it. I also like the handle styles you usually prefer to make. Elegant and precision work and photography as always. Thanks for letting us have a look and admire.

Nice assortment of usable tools there. You could do all kinds of shaping with em. That's a steal at $50. Great score. In the middle of picture two looks like a tool last stand.

Meant a coarse metal file. I don't know much about hoof rasps to say if there are different coarseness. Lets clarify, do you intend to hot rasp metal you are forging on to clean up edges and smooth surfaces, or do you intend to forge it into something. I gathered that you want to use it to hot rasp your work. Anyway, you could just get one and give it a shot. The toothy side will be too aggressive but the file side will dull a bit in use. It will be bitey at first.

If you are buying new, why not just buy a cheaper coarse file. Maybe just me but there isn't much in forging I find myself needing a rasp for that a coarse file wouldn't handle. Yeah the teeth on the file side of the rasp would bite a bit much but a coarse file would do the job. If you are set on dulling a new rasp i would probably "lightly" grind over it with an angle grinder with a stone or abrasive disk then test it and repeat till it was to my liking.

Now that you have the flatter for pipe, slide an oval section on the handle and weld it up.