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I Forge Iron

Fe-Wood

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Everything posted by Fe-Wood

  1. If you really want to smith, you will find a way. I had a small commission many years ago. I didn't have a shop at all. I lived in an apartment in the city. I had an out door storage (shipping container) for my tools and such. So, in the front door of the container with a torch, hammer and anvil I made the piece that is in my avatar. The wood base I made at the furniture shop I worked at. Non of use know your circumstances or resources. Be clever! You will find a way!
  2. I say Go For It! When I was in college, I got into making carving chisels for some british master carvers. I just jumped in with no experience at all. I read Alexander Waygers book, http://www.amazon.com/Complete-Modern-Blacksmith-Alexander-Weygers/dp/0898158966 I used it to learn the basics. The chisels I was making were offset chisels with a tang for the handle end. I used drill rod from McMaster Carr for the steel. It worked great and I still use some of the chisels I made for myself today. Enjoy the ride and welcome to IFI!
  3. A little insight into what you invision making would be helpful. As Thomas said, its wide open subject. Copper pipe is fine to work with either in the round or cut to lay flat....
  4. Here is a link- http://www.restor-it.com/restore-it/
  5. Try a penetrating epoxy such as restore-it. I use this stuff all the time and it is great for sealing and as a base coat for finishes.
  6. From my understanding the 2015 western states conference will be held in Hollister, Ca. It will coincide with CBA's spring conference.
  7. I agree ThorsHammer82. I would love to find a solution that allows hobbiest and the public to attend these events. Bringing a better understanding of what blacksmithing is about and why hand forged work cost what it does into the public eye would help all of us. There just doesn't seem to be a workable solution to this dilemma...yet.
  8. This thread has been VERY relevant and helpful for me. I just picked up an Anyang 33. I was having a terrible time keeping my tapers square. 3 points from this thread that have really worked for me are: Rotate the work round and round not back and forth. Something about the differential heat causing work to go out of square. If you do go out of square, correct it immediately! Hit the work hard enough to cause the round bulge on the sides so it is correctable. With the speed of this little hammer, hit turn doesn't work... My hands don't move that fast.... When I forge to octagon, I start with light hits to properly establish the flats then I go back and work it to finish, continuing to work round and round... What I mean by working round and round; Work one surface then rotate 180 deg. and work that surface. Then rotate 90 deg. to work the adjacent face, then rotate 180 deg. and so on... As with most aspects of smithing it is a constant series of corrections and adjustments so proceed as necessary! Thanks to the OP and all who have contributed!
  9. thorshammer82- While I agree the cost is hi if you are just going to look around. I wish there was a way of having 2 price structures. One for people who want to be involved with demo's and hands on clinics and the like and one for "off the street" people who are interested in Blacksmithing as a craftsman just checking it out for the first time or a potential customer who is interested in learning more about Blacksmithing. This is something that is discussed all the time. Bottom line is these events are put on for the trade just like any other "trade show". I will say that if you are interested in learning about and or more blacksmithing techniques, $80.00 for a day of exposure and time in the hands on area with the likes of Mark Aspery is money well spent. For a bit of perspective, attending this event is going to cost me close to $1000.00 with travel and lodging.
  10. Yes, you can come for the day. Here is a link- http://www.westernstatesconference.com/conference-registration/
  11. RiffRaff- Rather than post on the other thread you started, I'm going to continue the conversation here and respond to your questions from the other post. I think the best way to help you get started is to give you a little back story on how I got started. I have been a builder all my life, building mostly with wood. In the early 90's I wanted to learn how to make woodworking tools.There was very little info out there (no internet to speak of). I read Alexander Weygers book "the complete modern blacksmith" from cover to cover. I made some nice chisels and fumbled around for a couple years then life got in the way and I left smithing all together until 2008. That was the first year I went to a CBA conference. Wow is all I can say! I learned more that weekend then I did during my couple years fumbling around in the 90's. I have been a member of CBA ever sense. I have tried to make it to all the events in my area, Spring Conference, Octoberfest, Weaverville hammer-in and countless clinics. In 2011 I was asked to help with the CBA education committee. I accepted and am still part of it. After 5 years of hard work and showing up, I feel I am just beginning to be able to make what I see in my minds eye in a reasonable amount of time. Long and short of it from my perspective is it's a long journey with lots of hard work. I figured the best way for me to learn was to get involved with CBA education. I can put together the clinics and instructor trainings I need to continue my learning and help others at the same time. My involvement also allows me to rub elbows with some of the best in the business. As far as becoming a farrier? At your age I wouldn't unless you are looking for a way to make money and don't have another money making skill. I know several smiths who got out of shoeing horses for health reasons... It kills your back and knees. I hope this helps-
  12. A lot of what Frosty said is true. Get exposure, work the steel, build skills. If the passion persists refine your skill to blades. Its easy to take a piece of steel and make a blade. The true art and craft of smithing come out when one makes a blade that works well, holds an edge and looks good. That takes time to learn and skill to perform. Get involved with CBA. It is an amazing resource. The Weaverville group is a great bunch of guys and gals! If you have the opportunity, come to Mount Hood. Western States Blacksmithing Conference is happening August 22 thru 25. There will be demo's from some of the best blade smiths on the west coast as well as demos from all other forms of smithing. This is one of the big events in Blacksmithing.
  13. I guess the question becomes "What came first? The hammer or the tongs"...
  14. Right now? I would like a power hammer in the 50 to 100 pound range.
  15. I'll through in on Rob Gunther's repair method as a good one. I used it on my PW a few years back and I use that anvil all the time. Its holding up just fine....
  16. I think I could do it. Heres the approach I would take. Heat it so the split can be opened up a bit more and/or delaminate more if it has a week weld. Then, while hot I would blunt the tip and sides so I wouldn't loose the thin material during forge welding. Upsetting the end and sides to build more mass. I would use a coal forge so I could control the heat really well. Using flux, get it to nice even saturated forge weld heat. Put the thick side on the anvil while welding. Gentile blows. I'd do it twice to be sure it stuck. Then, at orange heat, I'd forge it back to original shape... Anneal, grind, finish and heat treat as needed. Good Luck!
  17. I like the low hanging fruit! I suppose it is not of the free stone variety....
  18. Hey Frank, Great work! Glad to see you using what Toby showed us in his class! Pipe vase looks really good too!
  19. Thanks Mike! Thats the kind of tip I am looking for.
  20. Hey, Thanks for the replies! Looks like experimenting is in order. I have talked with several people and all the suggestions you all suggest are what I have been told works in a veriety of "other" applications. Nobody I have talked with has had first hand experience... I think I will start with Calcium Carbonate (whiting) and see what happens.
  21. socal dave- you got it! Its part of a chandelier in Daniel's home. We made this as a practice piece during Daniel's visit. A learning exercise if you will....
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