tdriack

Flea markets and antique stores usually have them used very cheap. When I built my grinder - I'm pretty sure I bought my keyed shaft and two 4 step pulleys really cheap on a special offer from Zoro with free shipping. I don't know what they charge currently....

Here's my metal stand with removable wheels and vise. Bottom shelf grid is sized to hold hardy tools.

It looks like homemade "C-tek" made from damaged aluminum honeycomb to me. There is usually a lot of the honeycomb on ebay - I've been tempted to try making some homemade scales - right after I finish up the other 62 projects I'm doing first ... lol While we are on the topic - has anyone ever used C-tek matrix scales on a knife? Here's a link to one source I saw online --- I like the random look of it. http://www.compositecraftinc.com/C-Tek-Matrix.html

Most places near me like Lowes or Tractor Supply sell 7018AC rods that are rated for DC and AC. If you want a DC only rod - you actually have to search it out at a welding supply store. I've had good luck with 7018AC rods for most of my bigger projects (I use mig for anything less than 1/4").

I made my own version of that and posted it around Valentine's Day. And it was a huge hit! I didn't take credit for the design, so I don't feel any remorse for making an item that does flatter the original design with my own twist on it (Which I like better than the original to be honest). I made it as a gift to brighten someone else's day -and it did. I'm glad I saw the original posted online - I'd have never came up with that simple design on my own. I don't think I'd feel right about selling a copy that wasn't my own design, but to make a single piece for my own personal world doesn't seem wrong to me at all.... but that's my opinion......

I have some D2 I have made some blades from. I have never tried forge welding any but I'll tell you what I've learned. It is very hard - it eats belts on a grinder if not annealed. It isn't truly stainless - but it will resist rusting way more than some other steels from my experience. Heat treating will be your biggest issue, If you plan to make a blade - look at the specs for heat treat - it is very high temp with a soak. I use an electric heat treat furnace with a controller - 1850 F for 15 mins or more depending on size. I also SS foil wrap the stock. That is a very specific procedure - you may be able to "wing it" on a normal gas forge and make it work - but I don't know how well it will turn out and wouldn't recommend it. That being said - if the metal was cheap, and you have a lot --> make some blades and practice and see what happens - it will be good experience.

Hi everyone - this item has been in the parent's garage since I was a child. I know it isn't necessarily a blacksmith item, but can any of you gentlemen identify it's use???

For a tapered tracking wheel - and especially wheels with recessed bearings, I'd save your money (and probably a lot of time and frustration) and go straight to Ebay when you have enough saved up. Honestly, Ebay has some very reasonable prices and choices for wheels - aluminum or composites ( I also saw a new seller in Poland that makes solid white nylon wheels that look interesting). I've had some issues with some different wheels - and it's very frustrating - spend 20$ buy one.

Really Nice rhitee93! I'm making something very similar to your build - but using 6x6 I-beams instead of angle so that the frame can be used as a guide in a slightly different manner. Synchronization isn't a concern for your build in my opinion. Your 2 cylinders are spaced symmetrically even with a centered tool die - so with your good guide setup - hydraulic pressure will find equilibrium and the rams will work in unison. I have a tendency to way over engineer things - so maybe this isn't an issue - but I'll ask. It looks like the top and bottom frame plates are only through bolted? Personally, I'd run a pass of weld up the vertical angle iron to the frame plates to reinforce them (and probably use larger grade 8 bolts -lol). If you upgrade to 5" cylinders and a bigger pump - it would be something to consider. Derek -- I've probably spent close to 2000$ in materials on my build also. Mine will be closer to 50T though with dual 5" cylinders. I have been patiently building up all the components over the last year as I run across them cheap - or free. Your price range estimate could be a little low if you aren't super careful about your component purchases. It doesn't take much for a surprise to boost the final cost. I had initially thought i could build mine for 1200$ ---> Wrong! It's really nice to see others besides myself working on similar projects and goals -this site is a real asset in that manner - it's a real morale boost for me and makes me want to get back to the project! Good Luck Everyone!

It didn't come with any controls - but I have an old omega PID that I'm pretty sure has a ramp function - I just need to download a pdf of the manual and double check. I guess my only concern really will be installing a rack to hold knife blades for HT in the limited space diameter.

Came across this tube furnace at a very reasonable price. K thermocouple installed in it too. Just need to wire it up with a PID controller and SSR and install end cap insulation and I'll be ready to run! Has anyone else used something similar for heat treating?

I can't seem to find my notes / calculations at the moment - but it was calculated within the ranges everyone has suggested - 1-2" a sec. Obviously the single ram option will be way faster than the 2 in parallel - when it's finished I'll be able to give more than theory calculations. BeaverNZ as for hoses and returns ... I'll be using size 16 hydraulic hoses that are tugboat steering ram used/ scrap surplus hoses (but still new and in good shape to most) - I'm pretty sure that a 1" will cover my return speeds from my experiences. Once I finish my build (hopefully over the next few months - if work/free time allows) I'll post a new thread of my build.

Daswulf ! Those roses are awesome - great job! I'm going to practice on roses for next year, I posted it before - but I'll add it again - My hook sculpture was a huge success!

Try these formulas: Speed for a hydraulic motor Horsepower for a hydraulic motor Pumps - Power Calculator

http://www.jean-pierre-augier.com/images/Augier/couples-gallery/le-couple-(crochet).jpg That's the link to the original

Thought I'd share a few pics of a sculpture I just finished for the special lady in my life as part of a Valentines gift. I can't take credit for the concept of the sculpture, I saw a pic similar on Pinterest probably a year ago and started saving parts since then - and put my own twist on it. Although the only forging I can claim on it is bending the arms into rings - and then tack welding the rest - I thought it was worth a share. Used 2 old bent hooks I had, two different size ball bearings and a railroad clip. Finish is is Rust Oleum hammered bronze paint. I wanted to go with blackened scale finish with bees wax - but the bronze will match better with her decorating style. There is still plenty of time to make your own - lol - Or to have one in the wings as a surprise gift for the day - you hammer on too late at night and get into the doghouse!

I'm building a press currently - although time is limited so it's going slow..... Here's my thoughts: I'm aiming for lower noise after reading a ton of links and watching videos with 3450 rpm motors screaming in the background. My build is using a 7.5 hp 1750 rpm single phase motor with a 28gpm two stage pump (since it will be running at half speed to give me close to 14gpm). I'll be using two 5" x 16" rams in parallel - it was way cheaper to go with two 5" rams instead of a single 6". I will be building a H frame with the rams on the bottom and there will be 3 clevis pin holes - 2 for using double rams and one centered for using a single ram (if I decide I want more speed with 1 ram and and a little less tonnage).

If you are using a 3450 rpm motor - I'd look at the specs for possibly a 14 or 16 gpm two stage log splitter pump and go with a motor hp to match. I know some guys will say not to use 2 stage pumps - but that is really a preference imo.

Everyone already covered the problem/ solution for this thread - But I wanted to add a problem I had on jaw alignment. My current post vise gave me fits when I first acquired it and set it up. The problem turned out to be the spring - it was slightly bent (twist). As I tightened the vise down - the jaws would shift out of alignment before they even came tight. After I flattened the spring and squared it up - My post vise worked great.

Oh wow - thanks Thomas! I was struggling on another patent website - trying to filter through 24,000 hits - lol. Well - now I can make eave troughs - ha! It'll be a useful for some project I haven't discovered yet. Thanks for your help!

Ha - yeah that would have been helpful to give - sorry. It's 5" long tip to tip, 3 1/2" wide, and about 1 1/2" thick.

Good Day! I found this yesterday at an antique shop - so of course I had to have it. It's stamped "PAT D Jan 25 98". Can anyone help me identify it and it's intended use? I'll probably use it for forming something down the road, but I'll have to figure out a way to hold it (probably in my post vise). Either way, it was very cheap and I'm not one to pass up a bargain -lol. Thanks in advance for any help in identification.

I really like the pic of flyingxs wooden "sawhorse" with the anvil as a counterweight. That might not be ideal for for a permanent set up - but its simple and functional and wouldn't take too much time to build. The folding tripod stands are really nice too - but have to be incredibly heavy to move I bet.

Double check motor rotation direction also. Most low HP motors are reversible through wiring configurations - but occasionally there is an oddball motor I've seen that isn't.

Great info Gergely! Thank you! I've never seen that pdf - it has good info! I played around with a few small rollers - and you aren't kidding - that steel is very hard! I have a hydraulic press half built - those races and the large conical bearings are on the back burner until I have it finished up and working. I'm really glad I was able to get the steel for free - it will just have to wait until I am geared up to properly deal with the bigger pieces. After reading up on larger bearing races and seeing there is a good chance it's spring steel - my daydream for it this week is to make a one piece tomahawk out of one of the thinner races..... time will tell.