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dodo knives

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About dodo knives

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  • Location
    putnam couty new york (45 min north of new york city)
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    knife making (obviously0 snowboarding..

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  1. Thanks steve! I did try again I made a 30% ferric 70% distilled water then 50-50 that with vinegar. deffitinly a lil more contrast not as much as I video, I did notice when they pull it out its still wet and yeh that would deffinitly make it look different. if you scroll to the end of the video it shows another shot and it looks dry to me there. like I said a lil more contrast but not as much as in that last shot (the one that does look dry) but its deffinitly foggy, everytime I try and get rid of the fogginess I end up taking away the contrast that is there. you have any ideas of either wh
  2. steve... good point I didn't dilute the ferric the stuff I used is the pcb etch from radio shack I used that 50/50 with vinegar, to be honest I thought the 30% this is just how it comes because isn't muriatic acid just a dilute of sulfuric or hydrochloric one or the other. so I thought that was the same kinda thing but I will try again what do you think dilute it down to 30% with distilled water then 50/50it with vinegar?? temple hound .....yeh I know I wont get the contrast I could get with say 1084 and 15n2 that's a given but that video shows ALOT more contrast than what I am getting i
  3. hey guys so I got a couple pieces of damasteel to use for bolsters on a couple folding knives. so I saw a video with todd begg on how to etch it and it came out beautiful. (link to video below). so I heat treated the steel ( even tho I am only using it for bolsters I have read heat treating it will effect the etch. so I followed this video exactly starting with muriatic in a double boiler with the water at 160 deg. put it in there checking as I went. in the video he said it took 2-3 mins and you want it to fully etch one alloy and just start on the other. then I neutralized it and dipped it in
  4. Hey guys so I am getting into folders...did a couple practice prototypes and one complete regular liner lock. so then I tried a flipper using loose bearings like the IKBS system. it cam out ok but doesn't open as easily as it should just by tapping the guard you gotta flick your wrist also to get it to open. I have seen a bunch that don't need that just tap the guard and it fully opens (without a sping) using loose bearings were a pain so the one I am working on now I am using caged bearings pocketed into the titanium liners.....any one have and advice or tips on how to get this to open nice a
  5. thanks Thomas I have heard about Parkerizing but don't know much about it, whats the deal with plating is there a way I could do it at home I thought that kinda thing requires crazy equipment
  6. Hey guys so I am trying to experiment with different coatings and such, I have tried ceracoat wich I like the options everything from black or earth colors even bright colors, however I would like it to be a lil more durable, I had tried that specificly because I figured regular paint would wear and scratch off pretty quick. yes it is more durable than spray paint and more even profeshional look but I wish it was alil bit more durable has any one used this is there any tricks to get it wear less? what about dura coat ?? I haven't tried that is it any better, I also did one or 2 blades cold blu
  7. thanks guys I ended up making it ok could be lil cleaner but it acceptable I ended up getting coper pipe wich was thicker than the brass I was using. I cut it and flattened it out to a flat plate cut out what I needed rolled it back up and brazed it togather then took a square piece and brazed that on the end and ground off all the excess, I think using copper and since it was thicker is what helped
  8. Thanks guys yeh I think I am going to use larger wire, and actually just got home with some copper pipe had the same idea as you Thomas....and no it is not like the cold steel tanto, I have done knives with a similar tip but the handles looked nothing like a Japanese handle.....to be if your going to do it trandionally it should have the curved tip just as a katana or wakizashi would
  9. Hey guys so I have been working on a traditional Japanese tanto ( eventually I am going to work up to a full size katana) I have the blade done the tsuba (guard) the sepa's (spacers) are all done I am having trouble with making the fuchi (the sleve/collar on the front of the wrap) and the kashira (the pommel) I have tried what I saw in a video of creating a thin brass oval the size of the end of the wrap then taking a thin strip of brass and wraping it around the oval piece and brazing. it has been very hard to get these 2 pieces together and lined up before brazing and then even what I have h
  10. just seen this thread is still going...i learned exactly what you were saying yesterday i will explain,, so in the past when i show a knife to anyone who ever is around my mother my sister whoever, even when i know there is a flaw in it MOST of the time they don't even notice it but i know its there because number one i put it there i built it i know exactly how everything SHOULD go and when it doesn't i take notice even if no one else will. so yesterday i went to the new York custom knife show (my first time there it was great met a lot of good people and got advice and criticism on some kniv
  11. Hey guys so I went to a knife show today tons of fun! but it inspired me to start learning how to do folders. I did some research on this a couple months back and found a ton of info but I put it on hold. so I want to try and do a lner lock. my problem now is I am not sure where to start as far as what stuff I need to order like screws? pivots? titanium? that kida stuff I am confident that if I get what I need that with the reading I have done I will be able to get it togather. so I am wondering if you guys can help me out with a list of supplies I will need to order to be sucesfull at this i
  12. that's what I thought I keep telling him to just save for another couple weeks and get the KMG like be but he has been bitten by the knife making bug as a lot of us did early on and he wants to upgrade from using files asap....steve have you heard of any one using these http://grindermaster.com/#vitrina looks like a kmg clone to me however the price is cheaper and its made in Russia so that's not really a plus I have only heard of it recently so I am wondering if any one has encountered this and know about the quality
  13. Hey guys so I use a KMG grinder but one of my buddies new to knife making is getting a Grizzly 2x72 grinder. so we were wondering about a couple things first can you swap out out platens and maybe even add glass on a grizzly like you can on a KMG??? second on my KMG I have the attachment for small wheel (like 1/4 - a inch or what ever) I use them for tight spaces like finger notches does the Grizzly have any attachments like this???
  14. Hey guys I have had ALOT going on recently not just in knifemaking. a lot of family stuff too so I haven't had time to keep reading this post even the I started it. however I just took the time to read all the posts I hadn't read. All of you gave very good advice and I thank you for that. I tend to think the answer to this question isn't one answer is a blend of many things yeh fix it if you can but some customers might not care or they might even like it as it shows its hand made. and then it can always be a gift for family. so yeh I think its up to me to blend everyone's answer into somethi
  15. yeh theo I have a pretty large even heat oven ( this one http://www.evenheat-kiln.com/?pg=models&c=17&p=82 ) I only got the hardness tester recently so when I started with the 440c I was stuck to using the brass rod test and other things like that (wich is actually a pretty accurate way of testing you wont know the number but you will know if the blade is too soft or to hard) ialso broke a blade or "coupon" every once in a while to check the grain size. since I got the hardness tester I have been testing the 400c and as I said 2 blades were done is cpms35vn. and since I got the hard
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