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About cedarghost

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Georgetown, KY
  • Interests
    Blacksmithing, bladesmithing, airbrush painting, old trucks, hunting
  1. I have been sealing them with CA glue to fill voids then finishing with wipe on poly. I have also completely finished them using CA glue, but I don't prefer to do it that way. These are made using the instant cast resin without a pressure pot. Any of you wood guys have suggestions for other types of finish to put on them?
  2. Thanks for the info. I am definitely going to look into it.
  3. Thanks guys
  4. These look really cool. I'd like to figure out what's in them and make some.
  5. It does look like chicken wire. At least that's what we call it here.
  6. It's definitely colored epoxy. Not sure what the mesh is.
  7. Anyone know what these scales are made of?
  8. Guess I tested it too soon!
  9. Good to know it may be salvageable. I will give it a try. Do you think my above approach to finish setting the weld looks sound? Thanks again Steve.
  10. Going to give it a try Steve before I just dump it. Any tips? Or just heat to red, reflux, heat to welding temp and set? I have read that once your initial weld fails its hard, if not impossible, to correct it.
  11. Sounds like sound advice. Thank you.
  12. Yes! I thought I was patient but I was not patient enough. I started hammering too hard, too quickly, I should have taken it to welding heat a couple more times with lighter blows to get everything set good. Great learning experience though. I have another billet just like this one stacked up and ready to go. So we will have round 2 tonight or tomorrow. On a good note, I am using a single Frosty t-burner in my little forge and it works great! I think I probably left it on the anvil too long as well.
  13. I came across some 4130 (very thin bars) so I alternated 4130, 1080, 4130, 1095, 4130, 1095,4130,1080,4130 for a 9 layer billet and decided to see if my little forge would get tonwelding temp. In retrospect I could have just tried in mild steel, but anyway.... It did not weld all the way and I suspect it was the 4130. If you look at the billet you can see a couple of lines that look like the billet is three distinct layers. i am pretty sure I had a good temp, as the steel was bright yellow/white and the flux was dancing on the surface. I cleaned everything REALLY good with the grinder, heated to red, fluxed, heated to lemon yellow/ white and let it soak and made sure all layers were the same color. Loved it to be anvil quickly and just tapped to start setting the welds. Refluxed and back in to heat it back up and tapped again a little harder when it started to feel solid. Did this for about 5 cycles before I really started hitting it good. Once I thought it was set good, I hit the sides and nothing shifted or showed any cracks. However when I ground the end off I could see the layers. On a good note, I'm pretty sure I have no problem getting to welding temp. Guess I will try again with some 1080 and 15n20. I'm thinking with the 4130 being so thin it may have burned up. The burn marks in the picture are from the grinder. Any chance of saving it? Thoughts and comment welcome!
  14. Boom! Thanks for coming through Steve.
  15. I've been looking for information on how to do this. I've see handles with a layer of wood, then brass, then rock or gemstone (highly polished). Does anyone have a good resource for instructions on this or can possibly point me int he right direction? Thanks,