forgemaster

Getting monsters hammer bolted down to the timber pad that we are going to use, just have to make some machine ways for the motor and it should be nearly ready to roll. Got the car float organised, got the tow vehicle organised, got the method to off load it at lithgow sorted, power is sorted, blower for the forge being tested on the Lister tonight. Accom has been booked for ages, all ready to go. Its shaping up to be a blast. Just need to order the Scotch and beer and all should be in order. Oh and get the kilt dry cleaned. Phil

Hi all Just a heads up to let any Aussies know of the 2013 ironfest at Lithgow, (we are looking at taking a 1cwt massey in slides so as we can have a decent whack this year), Ironfest is being held in Lithgow showgrounds on April 20 and 21 there is a general admission charge to the whole event which is not all that cheap, but any blacksmiths wishing to take part can either contact through me or go to Ironfest direct. Ironfest does allow for reimbursment of costs but you have to let them know you are coming at least, there is a form to fill out, giving them and you details and allowing for them to send you performers wrist bands to allow you entry without charge. If you wish to attend as a blacksmith, I am going, Moonie is going, the Vic guys will be there, there is normally a roll up from Waughope, Will Maguire is going, come and be part of it all, it is an event that I do not miss. They allow camping on the site. Phil having read this I know it sounds a bit confusing but it is me winding down for easter break, if you have any questions contact me via a PM and I'll either answer your questions or steer you to someone who will. Have a good easter (remember to drink in moderation don't drink and drive, there is a big police presence and double demerit points (NSW anyway) and try to at least think once or twice what good friday and easter was all about.

Yeh Drewy but this guy is in Belgium not France so they'd have to use dutch or belgian chalk not french chalk!

That sort of application is also often a case hardening steel too, not saying it may not be 4340 or some such other alloy, just we have made these sorts of pins before and we used case hardening alloy I think En36A or 4317. Also used 8620 on a few. Phil

Oh yeh when you cut/fit the gland packing it is better to have it slightly too long so as you have to press it into the slot, that way it will stay there as you put the gland back onto the hammer/rod. If you cut it short or just to lenght it will tend to want to fall out as you move the gland around and lift it up. (Thats why I said cut the packing to lenght actually as it is sitting in the groove in the gland, cut it slightly longer then sort of knead it all into the groove). You can always cut some more lenght off the packing if you have cut it too long and the gland is too tight, if its too short you're stuffed. You also need to allow for the packing to be pressed right into the corners as you slide it over the rod. 800mm will allow for a little bit of trimming to suit your hammer gland. Phil

We use an oil that we were given 10 44's of and it is for that reason that I use it. Its a crosshead engine oil as used in marine diesels, but I reckon a 460 grade hydraulic oil would be OK. The oil designation we use is Castrol MPX40 an SAE40 oil (it says it is a multipurpose engine oil designed for crosshead engine applications), basically an engine oil without the normal detergents that motor engine oil has. Call an oil rep and quote what I have given you, see what they can come up with. I think that Kymon uses a diesel engine oil too. The steam locos here use 460 grade hydraulic oil in the bearings etc. Phil

Congrats on getting the job Woody, much better use of your skill than a cleaner. When the mill needs new coupling hooks and links made for the cane waggons I know a place down near Cessnock NSW that can make them, they are too big to do using a 5, better send that work down here to me. Cheers Phil (was nice to see the old posts from Grant again, still miss him and his input even though I never met hiim in person)

Just for interest we have No.s C1037, C1891, C1265, Y4323 Y3947 and press No E764, also have another 7cwt but its down the yard and I don't feel like a walk at present. Woody for kevlar packing try Walkers PL, for a 5cwt you will need 2 lengths of 800mm long 5/8 x 3/16 neoprene proofed kevlar tape talc finish (3 or 4 ply depending on the wear between the rod and the gland) I am currently using 3ply in our hammer and this packing has been in since 8/1/09 and our hammer runs every work day. Easiest way to change packing I have found is to remove the top block,and drop the gland using a forklift (put a blade either side of the rod) and using a packer to hold the rod up about 300mm (lift the rod up without the top block while the hammer is still operable, before you remove the gland), put the gland down onto the bottom block then use the forklift to lift the rod up and chain it up so as you can remove the packer (the packer must be able to let the gland go over it) thern remove the gland with the forklift to a sturdy table or bench to work on it. Give gland a good clean and blow out all the air holes that are drilled through it. Fit the new packing in and trim it in there, make sure you stagger the 2 joins to opposite sides of the gland. Replacement is reverse of removal just remember to oil the rod really well as you are sliding the gland back up, and make sure the packing stays in the groove as you begin to lift the gland up the rod. Make sure the hammer is getting plenty of oil through the pump so as the rod stays oily and helps the packing stay nice. Phil

Good luck finding 4140 plate, I think it can be sourced from germany (i believe, one of our customers imports it) Phil

Hey john what are the sizes of the hammers behind the little takker, I guessed a 20 a 15 then a 5 then a 7 how close was I?

We find that if your brass rule will slide all the way through the dies from one side to the other including the hinge with the rule unopened the dies are worn. Phil

That is the letter box for Reliance Hexham, they also have the double arch 20cwt steam hammer that moonie is photographed next to, and no I don't think they will part with it (the smaller one, I know they wont part with the big one) Phil

bumping this back to the front somewhat, included another picky of the Moon with another hammer. Phil

Its just too sad when they get scrapped, yes I know that some are well past their use by date, one here (NSW) had a cracked tup cylinder that had been repaired many times with no success (30CWT) it went to scrap, but there was also a little used, recently overhauled 3cwt that was scrapped (Newcastle City council workshops) I almost had my hands on it when the bean counters and OHS gurus got involved, she went to the big furnace. They just dont make them anymore, what exists now is what we have to go on with. Yes I know I can buy a brand new chinese one, but they are'nt a Massey, I can't say the chinese ones will run as good after 50 years of work. Phil

Are you guys still alive up there, not all been washed down to the coast yet, just hav'nt seen any activity on your site here of late. Phil

Patrick will you be forging that 27"dia with one sledge hammer, 2 sledge hammers or maybe one of those bench top Anyangs? Is that H13 that is to be forged, or something else? Phil

Did you really think even for a nano second, that I would scrap a boiler whether it was going or not. I'm not that heartless. Phil

Ok sorry should have given more info, this hammer has grease lubrication with nipples on the main bearings and a grease cap on the big end,and does'nt have an oiler so the oil pump solution is moot, but the crank is not on the centre line of the air pump, therefore it has a motion more like a shaper, ie which ever way the flywheel revolves affect the beat of the hammer. The crank is towards the rear end of the hammer in relation to the cylinder, (hammers have a front,(where you normally stand to forge) a back where all the scrap and tools end up, a front end, normally to the left of where you normally stand at the front, and a back end, to your right of the front where you normally stand. So if the flywheel on this hammer turns anticlockwise (when veiwed from the back of the hammer (not the back end)) piston will go up slower than it comes down meaning the tup will go down slower than up, reverse (clockwise) piston up quick, down slow, tup down quick, with a slower up stroke. If you understand the motion of an old gear driven shaper you 'll relate to the motion I'm describing. (A shaper strokes quicker on the back stroke (return stroke) than the forward stroke which is when the tool is doing the cutting) Ta for all the replies so far Phil

Hey John What sort of oil are you using for the grafite mix, we normally use steam cylinder oil, found it the best. Cheers Phil

xxxx woody we cut one up for scrap only on last monday, (the 11th) wish I'd known, had a current ticket and all, though it was 26HP, maybe too big for what you wanted. Phil You missed a great weekend A, even got the hammer going.

Hi All Was mucking around with an about 1cwt Alldays on the weekend, and I can't seem to find any info on which direction the flywheel should rotate, does it matter with these little tackers, we tried both ways seemed same o same o. Anyone have any thoughts. I looked through both my Alldays manuals but there was nothing there and checked the rotation of our 2cwt (anti clockwise when viewed from the back of the hammer). I know that the masseys over 5cwt have to rotate in a set direction otherwise the oil pump will not pump. Ta guys. Phil

Fred Vanags (probly spelt it wrong), yeh they have a new steam shed right in the middle of the steam rally ground, seems funny that they have to go to oberon to find some one to do a demo when they have so many people in their own area. We used to enjoy the day demo,ing at the red shed. Be prepared for some full on OHS stuff though, just something I can feel in my waters. Had a guy (ex blacky did his time same place same year as lindsey) come here yesterday to collect some superheater flues we did 3 year ago for LVR, he had 2 steam hammers on the back of his semi about a 5 and a 7 or 8 I reckon they originally came from Chullora as they were painted yellow and were of railways pattern, with keyed on top blocks, not shrunk as the steelworks one were. He was planning on setting one up at cowra, but we realised just as he was leaving that they had no base plates, that and he only had one anvil, (to suit the bigger hammer). Interesting. They came from Rothbury Ratbag Railway up at Branxton. Are you going to the corroborree this weekend down south? Phil

Help monster needs with a 1 like a car float type of thing to transport it, a piece of 1" plate to bolt it too, another vehicle to tow all this including an about 8HP marshall portable to lithgow and back, cant see it happening this year. Where would steamfest get you to demo at. Phil

Hi Andrew A stack of us will be going to Ironfest again this year, if you want to attend let me know and I can give you details of who to contact, we will be taking a fair amont of stuff, tool,s anvil, heating device etc (monster was threatening to bring his 1cwt massey and portable to run it but i reckon he's running out of time now). Steamfest is not much though in the way of blacksmithing, Billy Maguire tried it a few years ago and it did'nt go so good. We used to demo in the red shed at SMR but that has been canned for a few years now as well. Phil.

Yeh John the dies widths were something that put me off buying a large Chinese hammer, plus if I really wanted a big hammer I just could not have gone past a Massey, I went for a press any way, but from my way of looking you need at least 4 inch wide dies for 1cwt hammer if you want to use tooling under it. Phil