Latticino

Lovely little utility knife, forged from pretty unforgiving steel. Like everything about this one, proportions, construction, fit and finish, handle design, forged finish... Only thing wrong here is I didn't make it myself

A lot of these questions have been asked and answered before. You should try cruising thru the site and reading some more so you have a better basis for asking your questions. Junkyard steel is a mixed blessing. Mild steel can be used for nails and some tooling (like tongs for instance), but knives and struck tools should probably be made of high carbon tool steel. With the time invested in making knives, it is probably worth purchase of steel of known quality, but a fair source for tool steel are automotive shops that do a lot of modding of suspension. If they have cutoffs from new coil or leaf springs these can be used for making tools and knives. You should probably consider starting with more basic projects to get the initial techniques down before assaying something as complicated as a knife, where esoteric things like proper heat treatment can make or break you. Check out the many posts on beginning blacksmithing as well as the "stickies".

Be prepared for curmudgeons to come down on you a bit for spamming the same questions on multiple places on the board without even bothering to do any of your own basic research on this site and in other areas where this info is readily available.

A lot of these questions have been asked and answered before. You should try cruising thru the site and reading some more so you have a better basis for asking your questions. Weight is a more typical method for evaluating anvil size. Does the anvil you are looking at have a number on it (typical for Fishers, this will indicate the weight range)? Put yours on a scale and ask again. Generally speaking though it looks in good condition (but rebound test would certainly be helpful) and should be adequate for knives, small tools and nails (some forge knives on much smaller anvils, even upturned 12 lb sledge heads).

Did a softbrick forge just like you have pictured for my first construction. It lasted through only 3 firings, but that was probably because I used older softbrick that may not have been rated for the elevated temperatures (I'm not completely certain that any softbrick is available that is rated for over 2,300 deg F). It started melting opposite the burner flare. Softbrick also has a bit more thermal mass than the insulation blanket, so will take longer to run up to heat, but will hold that heat a little better. As far as I know, softbrick is also prone to damage from contact with hot flux, though not as much as the glass blanket. If you are a scientist it is pretty easy to calculate the relative heat flux out the sides of your forge with a variety of insulating methods/materials. All you need to know is the U value for the material, the dimensions of the forge and the heating capacity of the burner. To get the actual heating characteristic is a bit more complicated due to door openings and flue losses, but the relative proportion between two insulators can be addressed without too much trouble. Monolithic refractory castings are pretty strong, when cast properly and not subject to extreme thermal cycling. As I mentioned before the refractory is a lousy insulator, and thickness matters a lot. There are also castable insulation materials, but they don't expand and contract the same as the refractory typically.That is why I recommended the intervening layer of glass fiber if you go that route. You would also be able to use a cheaper castable insulation. IF I were making an industrial forge for major production of pattern welded billets I would look into getting a section of high alumina precast tubing for an inner liner. Then cast a larger ring out of insulating castable with a 3" gap on the interior of this new ring from the outside of the precast tubing. I would pack the interstitial space with high temperature blanket and go to town. The only difficulty would be to make a burner port in the precast, but that could be drilled out with either a diamond hole cutter or the old silicon carbide slurry and rotating steel tube method. Something like that should last for years if properly used. Otherwise realize that a forge interior is also a consumable and run with it. Small cracks in your inner liner are not a bid deal provided molten flux doesn't find a way to enter same. Yes it can, depending on the thickness of the material. Even though the castable refractory is not a good insulator, on thicker sections it is possible to have a significant difference between the temperature at the interior of the material and on the outer walls. Depending on the material, the thickness the configuration of the casting and the heating/cooling rate some pretty significant stresses can be evident. Check with the material supplier for recommended firing/cooling rates.

Please be aware that most high alumina castable refractory (that is resistant to flux) is very dense and does not work well as an insulator. So you will certainly need a good insulating layer behind the refractory if you want to have any level of efficiency in firing your forge. As an interior liner, like used by DanielC it should work well. It is also somewhat subject to thermal shock , which it will experience given rapid thermal cycling. This propensity to cracking under thermal stress gets worse the thicker the layer of refractory you install. Note also that the coefficents of thermal expansion between the castable refractory and insulation tend to vary, so a layer of high temperature glass fiber insulation between the two is a good idea (unless your insulation is the glass fiber blanket...). I have in the past added stainless steel needles to the refractory mix to help with this, though any exposed to the surface burn out and it is a real bear to mix up the refractory with those needles. As far as I know these high temperature refractories were designed for forges, kilns and furnaces that operate continuously for long periods of time and users slowly heat them up and cool them down.

Might want to consider use of a bubble alumina or high alumina ceramic brick (more flux resistant, but very expensive). I have a half brick of same in my forge and it doesn't appear to degrade, but yours gets a bit hotter than mine.

Thomas, do you know whether those plumbing packing chisels were typically made from decent tool steel? I recently picked up a box of around 50 chisels that look a lot like the one the OP posted and would like to know whether they are worth reworking into forging chisels. Some of them appear to have broken away ends, and the grain size looks a bit large. Haven't had a chance to try forging same yet, or even spark testing, but that is the next step. Thanks,

Very nice first knife. Quite a challenge to heat treat one that thin on your first go around without getting any warps. I especially like the faceted handle. You have obviously done some woodworking before to get the complex shape so well rendered. If you don't mind a bit of constructive criticism from another beginning bladesmith, there are two aesthetic issues that might be worth consideration on your next knife. The first is the plunge cut (where you transition between the ricasso and the beveled portion of the knife blade. Making this is arguably one of the more difficult parts of knife grinding (I still struggle with it a bit after my dozen or so knives). You have a very "soft" transition, and a more pronounced transition is typically the accepted standard. The other is a more objective point. For a kitchen "paring" knife I would prefer less of a bulge in the blade above the handle where the blade and handle meet. I probably would have ground an eighth inch or so off the spine of the overall blade when profiling. You are off to an impressive start. Make sure you keep this one so you can judge your progress. I made a very similar kitchen knife, but with a full tang, that I gave away, as my 4th knife, and have regretted if since.

Just had a workshop with Clay this past week. Lovely man, with a lot to teach, particularly regarding tips and tricks for tooling and jigs that work for complicated assemblies (we did the gothic casket workshop). He does appear to be on the road a lot, so that might be part of the delay in his getting back to you. He really is dedicated to passing on his hard earned knowledge, so I'm sure he will get back to you once you formally get in touch.

Tripod from 3 leg stand is easier to make stable than a 4 leg, particularly if you are dragging it to different positions in your forge or if you fabricate it in a different area. I like the ones with stacked hardwood in a framework that allow you to raise and lower the anvil face incrementally. Like others I've used anvils of a variety of configurations on a range of stand types (stumps, cast concrete blocks, sand filled containers, steel legs with wooden supports...). My current stand is an old stump set on a metal framework with small, solid steel wheels. I got it when I bought the anvil, but it seems to hold up pretty well and not jump around (128 lb. Peter Wright). Have to spend a bit of time and change the strapping method, as the stump cracking has loosened the stove bolts in the end grain, but any time I get in the shop I tend to want to smith rather than repair. Search the site. Lots of good stand designs pictured here.

You can try to blow it out with compressed air, but if the motor windings are compromised by existing conditions it is likely not worth the effort. Metal dust in unsealed motor bearings, bushings and armature are not any better. I'm no expert, but I'd replace the motor.

Lots of info on belt grinder builds on this site and bladeforums. Search for the No-Weld Grinder kit online as well. I've even seen some belt grinder builds with wood frames. If motor on your HF unit is crapping out possibly because it isn't a TEFC motor and is getting loaded up with metal dust you may be able to salvage things like bearings, but those aren't all that expensive. Depending on your scrap pile you may be able to do a build for between $500 and $800 (depending on motor selection, pulley/drive and idler wheel availability, choice of platen type and how well you can scrounge). Typically they cost more, if you use less sweat equity. All depends on what your time is worth. If you are really creative there are alternatives that may be cheaper, but a good, stable, belt grinder is a godsend for making knives. On the other hand, you can always break the scale off with a 4- 1 1/2" angle grinder with a floppy wheel and draw file...

Also the hardware store is an unlikely place to source the kind of steel you should be using for actual knife making (high carbon tool steel). As all others have said, you need to do a lot more research before safely attempting knife making, much less swords. Stock removal is a great way to start making knives. You can even start with some already profiled kits to focus on the finishing aspects of knife making. As far as time for a sword goes, I just completed a 5 day class where we learned something about rudimentary sword making. We all worked very hard, a minimum of 10 hours per day, on much simpler swords than you have pictured. Without an instructor helping us every step of the way I doubt anyone would have gotten done. Grinding is a challenge, but properly heat treating such a long blade without warping it is more like an art. Certainly could not have done that without a lot of hand holding (and most of us had been bladesmithing for at least a half dozen successful knives). If you want to learn sword making, take your time and don't skip steps. If you just want to own a sword, the cheapest way is to buy one already finished. You can do a lot with relatively simple tools, though a lot of extra time should be budgeted if you won't be using a quality belt grinder. The most critical tool you need is knowledge, and that one will save you a lot of time and grief in the end run.

My shop has pretty insufficient lighting, to the point where I was having trouble seeing what I was doing at the grinding and polishing "stations" even on overcast days, not to mention at night when I could get into the shop to work most often. Just mounted an inexpensive task light (garage sale cheapo drafting lamp) onto my 2 x 72 grinder with a nice halogen spot bulb and can't believe how much that helps. All I can say is, if you don't have good lighting at your "cold working" stations you are missing out. Heck, I think I may even get some additional fluorescents for the forge zone...

Welcome to the site. I think if you read in the anvil section a bit you will find that this question, or one rather similar has been discussed more than once. I'm hardly an expert, but to get you started... Unfortunately this is a pretty open ended question. A lot depends on what you want to do with your anvil. One that is particularly suitable for making horse shoes will be different from one for major architectural steel fabrication, or one most suitable for blade-smithing. The general things that seem to be considered in selection of an anvil include the following (in no particular order): Weight: an arguable point regarding the specific weight ranges, but, do you want something that is easily transportable (120 lbs. or lighter range), for general shop fabrication (150 lbs. and up), large forgings (200 lbs. and up)Configuration: single or double horn, stepped cutting plate, location and size of hardy and pritchel holes... Again this depends on what you want to use it for. I do like the German pattern double horn anvils you seem to have more of over in Europe, but you can do some great blade-smithing on an 80 lb. 6" x 6" block of steel set on end into a solid mount.Condition: mostly of the anvil face, but if legs are broken off it can be a hassle, and if the body is cracked, stay away. Check this site for rebound test and face delamination for more information. It is nice if there are no noticeable large divots in the face and that it is generally speaking flat and true, but these defects can be worked around. If this is an anvil for use, rather than collecting, edge condition can also be an issue. Check this site for info on recommended edge radius. Rust and or paint are no big deal, but can hide defects, so inspect closely.Method of manufacture: forged or cast steel with a hardened face probably best. Generally stay away from modern cast iron anvils, unless you are looking for a doorstop.I think you need to do a bit more research. Recommend reading the forums here and checking link removed at the request of Jock, anvilfire owner. Good luck.

Might want to suggest they source a couple of heavy vises. Post vises would be great, but even a good heavy duty bench vise will do in a pinch. If you don't know the size of the anvil hardy hole it might still be worthwhile bringing down a Brazeal style hot cut hardy. The ones I've seen work in something of a range of hardy holes (or in the proposed vise in a pinch). I guess you could gimmick something up from a leaf spring if necessary, but if you only have 5 days... Another thing they should be able to source down there is Borax, or the equivalent, for flux. Could try to get someone to bake some off to make it anhydrous as well before you head down. I'm kind of surprised that there isn't a thriving blacksmith culture in Nicaragua. A quick online search gave me this: http://blacksmith.org/forum/traditional-blacksmithing/visit-nicaraguan-blacksmith/

I concur with the existing wisdom that has already been posted on this. Was going to write something similar yesterday when I first read the OP, but for some reason could not post to IFI. Other things you may wish to check if the ventauri inlet adjustment doesn't get you all the way to where you need to be: Gas orifice size is pretty important, that is what drives the naturally aspirated induction of the combustion air. If the forge worked well before you shouldn't have any trouble, but if the orifice is just a MIG tip screwed into the interior gas port, as with many self made burners, it could have fallen out in transit. You may be able to see it if you slide the ventauri sleeve out of the way (depending on burner construction)I'm confused as to why your gas ball valve appear to be in the closed position (handle perpendicular to the pipe) in both the cold and firing photos. This should be set so that it is parallel to the pipe when in the firing position, so the standard action of turning it 1/4 turn to off position can be done quickly in case of a problem. You should not be using this valve for metering your gas, that is the job of the regulator near the propane tank (get a gage, as Charles mentioned).I suggest you add a longer section of copper pipe upstream of the ball valve to get that flexible rubber propane hose as far away from the forge as possible, particularly with a top fired burner. Honestly I'm not a big fan of using that flexible gas hose for any "permanent" equipment in a smithy, though for code compliance that forge could arguably be termed a portable unit. Looks like you are on the road, good luck.

Looks to me like a rather large billet for that size door opening. Does it have to go in on a diagonal? If tried by now, how did it work? I have built a similar sized gas furnace, but with only one burner and fired on natural gas. Feel like I struggle to get to welding temperature. Haven't tried a bullet in mine yet, but hope to in the future.

Wow, that sure is one deceptive 10 lb. sledge, or you have basketball size players hands. Judging by the scale to your hand, I'd never guess it was more than 6 lbs. at most. Oh, I see on re-reading that it was significantly cut down. What does it weigh now? Can't imaging forging with that as is (unless you want to add texture to a piece). After being flame cut it might be a great soft face hammer for driving tools though.

Not hugely relevant to this safety discussion, or pertinent on a site where we all take pride in making handcrafted tools to use, but I think you would find it tough to make a brass hammer for less than what it costs to buy one at Harbor Freight: $25 2 LB Brass Hammer. I use mine as a "disposable" striking tool for hitting the back of punches, chisels and the like to save my forging hammer's face, as well as avoiding mushrooming the back of the struck tools. Works great for me. I suppose if you want to class it up you could engrave it or do some ornamental filework... Wish they made them in larger sizes. Perhaps that was your plan. Glad to hear you are choosing the safer path.

Sweet! Love projects with that kind of simple elegance. Looks extremely well executed. I know how tough it can be to get it all to tie together so cleanly without any ornamentation to hide mistakes.

I filled mine about 2/3 full with concrete, sunk some heavy angle in it and used it to support my leg vise. Once things warm up will use the top for a slack tub (heavy angle is painted). Now it works well as a stable, but still re-locatable vise mount.

My son gets a gamer's magazine and ran over to show me an article about a guy who makes swords based on classic fantasy game weapons. Guess who it was prattling about how his swords are "real weapons" just that human beings are too puny to wield them?

Recently had a Craig's list experience with blacksmithing equipment as well. Have been on the lookout for a larger anvil and saw a local listing by a guy for a anvil on a truck rim style stand for $350 and a CI coal forge for $450. He also had loads of pictures for farm equipment attached to his listing as well. Called him up and asked about the equipment. The typical questions, weight, condition, how long ago was it used... He said that he had used it only last spring and all was in very good condition, the anvil was over 100#, but that someone was coming over in around 3 hours to look at them. I don't usually try to "snipe" sales, but got excited and told him I'd drop everything and drive over immediately. The fact that there was another anvil hiding in the weeds in the shot was certainly a factor. I figured I had a farmer who was downsizing and, hopefully, not expecting collector prices for blacksmith equipment. When I got there I was quite disappointed. This guy was right out of an American Pickers scene, with multiple barns full of antique furniture and around a half dozen anvils scattered around the property. He was definitely in the antique dealer mode. The one he had listed for $350 had rust damage to the horn that literally had eaten half way thru it (looked like someone had started to hacksaw it off and given up and set it outside for a couple of years). The face was badly damaged and size wise was in the 75# range. I told him that I wasn't interested in that particular anvil. He asked me why and when I explained about what I saw as drawbacks for use, became a little verbally abusive and noted that I had very clear ideas about what I was looking for, and that I would be better off buying something new. Against my better judgment I looked at his other equipment. The forge was stuffed back into a trailer and clearly hadn't been used in years. However it appeared to be in fair condition, but the hand cranked blower was seized (and the tuyer was a bit deeper than I'm used to). I wasn't really in the market for a forge, so I passed on that as well, to more abuse. The prize was an unnamed anvil that looked to be around the 250# range and in very usable shape. Unfortunately I didn't have a bearing with me to test the rebound, but asked the price in any case. He wanted $900 for this one. If I trusted him at all I might have taken a chance on this, but decided that with his attitude I really didn't need it that badly.