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Found 5 results

  1. Hello. I'm finishing up my second kitchen knife. It's made out of AEB-L and I wanted to apply a satin to it, so I sanded one part down to 1000 grit, then covered it with a masking tape, flipped it over and did the other side. When I took the tape off, I discovered white spots on the blade that you can see in the picture. I tried to sand them off (but I didn't go lower than 400 grit) and wash them off with acetone, but to no avail. What can they be, any ideas? The only thing I can think of is they are gouges left by some large steel crumbs, but why are they pits and not scratches and how did they make it so deep under the masking tape? If anyone has any suggestions, I'd be very grateful. Thank you! Luka
  2. I forged this kitchen knife out of bicycle chain with a 1080 steel backer. It is hollow ground and has a single bevel edge (for left handed use). The cutting edge is entirely 1080 steel, the chain is just for looks. Redheart wood handle.
  3. Ok, I had no choice but to try. I got a 1x42 belt sander. So of course I HAD to try making my first real knife. It started as an old rusty Nicholson bastard file and a piece of unknown hardwood flooring. I forged it as close to shape as I could, then ground it closer. Normalized it three times. Sanded it to 420 grit. Then heat treated it by heating to nonmagnetic in my gas forge and quenching it in heated Canola Oil (estimated about 160F). File skated on it at this point.Tempered at 450 F in the oven for 2 hours. Then I polished it with block and sandpaper. I used two part epoxy (not the fast drying stuff, I read these forums ) to attach the handle. Overall Length: 10 3/4 " Blade Length: 6 1/8 " Blade width: 1 3/8" (at widest point) Blade Thickness: 1/8" (at thickest point)
  4. Well, I am getting better with each knife. This billet started as 11 layers of 1095, 1084 and 15n20. Folded to total of 66 layers and did my best to create ladder pattern. Here is where I am at - I etched to see pattern and am happy so far. Needs further finishing, then will re-etch and do scales
  5. Hello all, Recently I took a class with Owen Bush on forging the pattern welded seax, and I wanted to share the blade I made under his supervision, as well as two kitchen knives I made afterwards using the techniques and skills I obtained. Although Mr. Bush would say that the larger blade is not a full seax, it's certainly a mutt of seax and American subhilt fighter. Apologies for the crude pictures. The short sword is patternwelded 1080 and 15n20 composed of three billots, the center one with a staggered twist, the outer two of random pattern. The blade is 15 inches long, 8mm thick (no distal taper), and 3.8cm wide. Handle is ~5.5" with brass fittings and purpleheart hardwood. There is a light vine pattern filworked along the base of the spine. The first kitchen knife is 15n20 and mild steel in a random pattern. The blade is 6.5", 6mm wide at base with progressive distal taper, and 3.3cm at the widest. The fittings are copper and brass with a purpleheart spacer, ebony handle, and inlaid canary design in twisted copper and German silver wire (the logo of the studio that commissioned the knife). The second kitchen knife is also 15n20 and mild steel in a random pattern, but with fewer layers. The blade is 5.75", 6mm wide at base with progressive distal taper, and 3.4cm at the widest. Copper and brass fittings, antler spacer, and zebrawood handle. There is a vine pattern fileworked along the entire length of the spine. All three blades went through the same heat treating process - normalization, hardening in oil, dark straw tempering. All handle work was done by hand tool (except for drilling), and the wood finished with multiple applications of linseed oil. I've been trying to develop my own style; leaving a bit of the blade rough (just the kitchen knives), filework (excluding the one kitchen knife - they requested so), and the shape of the handle. I would greatly appreciate any input! Theo Rock Nazz TheoRockNazz.com
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