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just finishing up my first pair of v-bit tongs and they ended up with w few hairline cracks which seem to have shown up in up expected places. hoping to get some thoughts on what caused them and how to avoid in the future. i started w 10" of 5/8 square stock hot rolled mild steel .... purchased from speedy metals so pretty confident the material is as advertised. i dont have a power hammer so the reins were drawn out by hand. used a hot chisel and square stock to forge the bits. any thoughts would be apprecsiated. thanks
Hi All, After trawling through many a post on these forums, I came to the conclusion that what I would like to know may be so deep, that I may not find it. Hence, my first post. A little background on the forge I created. Much of which, I took from these forums. It is made from 10mm thick steel pipe, 10" I.D. I used a refractory glue to adhere the 1400oC fibre blanket to the inside of the pipe, and a second layer of insulation bonded to the first. Following this, I washed the blanket with Kaowool hardener (I used quite a bit to get some strength into the blanket), and once it was fully dried, I applied a Blakite (http://www.morganthermalceramics.com/sites/default/files/datasheets/1_jm2600blakiteblakitevjm3300.pdf) wash over this, and gradually built up the thickness, layer by layer once each previous one had dried. I left the final coat to dry for a good few weeks (in Aus weather at that). I have some ITC-100 analogue material to wash over the top of that, but, as it always seems to happen... I fired up the forge prior to applying it, to get an idea of the improvement in heating times once I actually did apply it. After the first firing, I noticed some cracking in my blakite layer, very straight, running perpendicular to the curvature of the blanket. Second firing, it has worsened. Not significantly, but nonetheless, I want to reduce/eliminate it. My question for anyone with the knowledge (I know some of you will have the knowledge), is firstly, how should I address the cracking in this current forge? What material and how should I apply it, to eliminate it? I am always wary of those nasty fibre blanket fibres, and want to reduce the possibility of them being airborne as much as possible. (I know that the hardener should have done that, but I tend to be over careful when my lungs are concerned) Also, this current forge heats well even without the ITC-100 equivalent, admittedly. However, I believe it is likely on the higher volume side of a 3/4" T-Rex burner, at ~500 cubic In. for forge welding (I haven't cranked the PSI above 10 yet, mostly running at about 5, with an idle circuit dropping to who knows what -> pressure gauge post idle needed). As such, I will be gathering some more pipe and likely be making a smaller volume forge, at about 300 cubic In. (designed in Sketchup). Given this, can anyone suggest / help me out with a similar layering to that which I did previously, with tips to eliminate the cracking etc? I can follow up with pictures if necessary. Thank you, D.
Hey guys, I am a young bladesmith and am trying to figure out how to make my steel sto cracking. I make knives all the time, but only a few forged ones came out withous cracks, I used a file and it worked great, I used a leafspring and it cracked like ice, help!!
Hello there, The other day I was forging a bottle opener and a hook and after pulling them out of the pickle I use to clean off scale I noticed a small crack that ran along the length of them. I wondered the reasoning for it (perhaps it was my doing) and then I looked at the 3/8x3/4 flat bar I cut out of and noticed the crack ran all the way though it as well. I threw in my scrap bin, but yesterday I used some 1/8x1/2 flat bar and it has the same thing along the edges. I should mention that these cracks dont go all the way through but are only on one side. What could be causing this? Thanks ahead, Jake